Nippstress, I grew Bad Worishofen in Alabama; what a sweet little rose. Most of my roses have not started blooming yet or the early buds have been eaten by the rats with long legs and flat teeth - but among the ones that are there that I make a beeline for every day just to see them again Wasagaming, a rugosa/bourbon hybrid, fragrant, heavy bloom ... Till Uhlenspiegel, a five petaled hybrid eglantine with a reddish/pinkish bloom. The bush is three years old now and has had a pretty good bloom this year. I can't wait until it is mature and covered with those blooms of such a striking color, So healthy, no foliage issues at all for me. Purple Skyliner, this rose is three now and just covered with small purple blooms and buds. My three Louise Clements are in a small hedge in front of PS. One of them has a a tangeriney-orange bud. I dream of when the three Louise Clements will be mature enough to have a full flush at the same time the PS is in bloom. Yumm, one day, I hope. For now, I love looking at the one bud and the Purple Skyliner blooms. Sibelius - love the shrub form and the multitudes of blooms it is covered with. Belle de Crecy - I cut three and put in a blue and white vase with some dark purple columbine; I just love it. That shrub is so generous a bloomer. Mousseline - this reblooming moss rose is covered with blooms. It is three now and I think should bloom off and on all summer. Ask me again my favorites when Heritage finally gets some blooms, when Munstead Wood blooms, when the rest of the gallicas and Henri Martin Bloom. Georges Vibert should bloom for the first time. And alba maxima should bloom soon; I love that rose. Okay, I am stopping now. But here's Wasagaming

What about this one? Have no clue, but moving and looking for edibles... E3102 Juneberry, Saskatoon Serviceberry Amelanchier alnifolia Low water requirements, grows as high as 10,000 feet. A deciduous shrub that seldom exceeds 15 feet in height and occasionally suckering to form a slowly spreading clump. An easily grown plant, it prefers a rich loamy soil and thrives in any soil that is not too dry or water-logged. The largest yields, and best quality fruits, are produced when the plant is grown in a sunny position, though it should also do reasonably well in semi-shade. The plants are fairly lime tolerant and they will also grow well in heavy clay soils. They are very cold-hardy and will tolerate temperatures down to at least -20�c and probably much lower. Flowers in Early Spring, these white flowers are produced before the plants come into leaf, and are usually produced so abundantly that the whole plant turns white. They look particularly beautiful at this time. By late June, or more commonly early to mid July, the plants will usually be carrying large crops of fruits. These fruits are about 15mm in diameter, they are soft, sweet and juicy with a taste that reminds us of apples. Small enough to be eaten without problems, though they can add a slightly bitter almond-like flavour to the fruit if they are crushed whilst eating. The fruit can also be cooked in pies etc., when dried it is quite sweet and can be used in the same ways as raisins.

Mia, Yes , I think it will work. Interplanting tomatoes with other crops is something I do all the time. I often grow smaller plants like lettuce and carrots underneath and between tomato plants, essentially using them as a living mulch beneath the taller tomato plants. I also mix all kinds of herbs into the tomato beds as well, and think those herbs help explain how I grow so many tomato plants and yet only rarely see even a single tomato hornworm or fruit worm. You sometimes will get less yield per plant when you interplant multiple kinds of crops together using close spacing, but since you have a lot more plants occupying the soil, you still get a good harvest . The best carrot crop I ever had was a result of me broadcast sowing lettuce and carrot seed randomly into the tomato bed after the tomato plants already had been transplanted into the ground. My garden was smaller then and I had run out of space, so was packing as much into each bed as I possibly could. I just thinned carrots and lettuce after they sprouted. When I grow onions with tomato plants, normally I hammer a stake into the ground where each tomato plant will be planted later, and leave a small unplanted spot there as I plant the onions. When it it time to transplant the tomato plants into the ground, I put one tomato plant next to each stake. If I have to pull up a couple of onions to make room for a tomato transplant, it isn't a big deal . We eat those onions as scallions. I started interplanting multiple types of plants together long ago, after reading John Jeavon's book "How To Grow More Vegetables...." book. It is amazing how much you can pack into even a small space when you interplant. Even when I grow tomato plants in molasses feed tubs, I generally have pepper plants, herbs and flowers mixed into each container with the tomato plants. Look at how Mother Nature mixes everything up together. On the eastern edge of our woodland, for example, we have native pecan and oak trees growing as the dominant plants, but underneath them we have wild cherries, American persimmons, possumhaw hollies, and redbuds, and beneath those understory trees we have American beautyberry bushes, native blackberries, inland sea oats and brushy bluestem, peppervines and several native wildflowers which ebb and flow with the seasons. All of them happily co-exist. Why can't our gardens be the same way? To garden bio-intensively in this manner, you need to pay careful attention to soil fertility and irrigation (if adequate rainfall is not being received). Obviously when you interplant several types of edible crops together, the plants will be competing with one another. I get smaller onions in interplanted beds than I get from onions grown in a monoculture with recommended spacing, but still get tons of onions. We still have several dozen onions from last year's crop, though now they are starting to sprout. There pretty much is nothing grown in our veggie garden that isn't interplanted with several other things. If I ever were to plant even one single monoculture bed, I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like the way it looked and would be out there trying to fix the bed by adding more stuff to it. In fact, I do have my onions planted as monoculture beds right now, but that is because they are the only thing I've put into the ground so far this year. The onions will not be alone in those beds for long. Hope this helps , Dawn

Trachycarpus are a great species of palms if you're thinking of keeping them out all year long. I have 3 in my yard in NYC and they are actually starting to get "common" here. There is one house in my neighborhood that has 5 trachycarpus fortune in their front yard and I can see even more of them in their back yard. They are great palms to fit in small spaces and do well in sun or shade. Needle palms and Sabal minors are also small growing and will do well in smaller spaces so look into those as well. As for getting fruiting palms in containers, I don't think it's worth the effort. It can take 20 years for a butia to reach fruiting age and they will be WAY too big to take inside at that point. I have not heard much about the fruit of shorter growing butias, but I'm sure that even those would not be heavy producers of fruit in pots and probably aren't worth the effort especially since you won't know if they are male or female for many years. Lots of palms do great in containers though so if you are looking for palms that you can keep in containers just to bring the tropical look, I can definitely suggest a few. Good luck! -Alex This post was edited by tropicalzone7 on Thu, Jun 20, 13 at 20:25