Keep wood? Or drywall it?
14 days ago
last modified: 14 days ago
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- 14 days ago
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remove or drywall or mud over wood panelling?
Comments (8)Just wanted to follow up on what we have done in case this is of benefit to anyone else with a similar query: The drywall guy says only mudding over the panelling will not give great results, so we do need the drywall. He recommends 1/2 inch drywall as 1/4 may leave an uneven surface. His costs were similar with or without the panelling (around $5500 to sheetrock the whole house -- 2600 sq ft of floor space). In renovating almost the whole house, the contractors have pulled some sections of the panelling off in every room. All 3 bathrooms have been gutted back to the studs. In the other rooms, some have large sections of panelling removed and some have smaller sections. We can see insulation in all of the exterior walls and some of the interior walls. No evidence of any rot in any of the wall studs so far (and really all of the wet areas, incl kitchen have the panelling off), so we are going to assume the studs that are still hidden are OK. We are having a whole-house rewire and the electrician is just cutting out the panelling wherever he needs to get access to wiring. I don't think this has made much difference to his costs. Once the plumber and electrican are done, the drywaller will go thru and sheetrock everywhere. We need to watch for the trim around windows and doors. However, we prefer a modern/minimal style and so we are just going to take it all off and he can either wrap the drywall into the window recesses or use a special J-channel (i think thats what he called it) to make a clean edge level with the window recess. Oh, and on a side note, the inspector with his fancy infra-red moisture-detecting camera missed a rotten subfloor under a leaking shower and missed that the entire subfloor of an add-on office room is rotten through. Very unhappy about this. But pleased with the outcome of the wood panelling dilemma! Thanks for your advice, everyone....See MoreKeep plaster walls or replace with drywall?
Comments (17)This is in response to the suggestion of taking the plaster walls out in order to insulate. I offer the thought/question for discussion as much as expert responses but with a strong bias toward leaving the plaster intact because drywall is inferior. (Just compare the cost of new drywall to new plaster if nothing else.) At a time when my ex-husband was teaching college classes in thermo-dynamics and consulting for a contractor who built super-insulated, passive solar houses that could function without furnaces in cold climates (by way of expert references,) what I retained from some conversations was that the best insulation is dead air. e.g. when the pink stuff isn't fluffy, the trapped air is pushed out and insulation value lost. So I have thick plaster over wood lath interior walls and thick stucco outer walls in a 1913 house in a very cold climate (Central Minnesota, planting zone 3.) Whatever insulation was ever in the walls is most likely packed down in the bottom of the stud bays. The outside walls are cold to the touch in the winter and cool the rest of the time. On the other hand, it takes at least 24 hours for the house to lose its heat/cold - change interior air temp - to match the outside temp, even with some windows open. With the thermostat set at 65 during the day and going to 55 at 9 p.m. (very comfortable for me,) the radiators heat up in the morning and stay cold the rest of the day as long as the outside temps are +0. In short, I vote to keep the plaster and don't worry about wall insulation in a mild climate....See MoreDrywall repair/Orange Peel Paint/Wood Slats
Comments (8)Covering over the drywall may be your best option. To do this, locate and mark all underlying studs with a stud finder before starting and use longer drywall screws to go through the extra thickness. You could then hire a taper to tape and finish the drywall. They probably would not charge much for just the wall. Or you could try the taping yourself - if you do, go to the site below - it is written for beginners. Keep in mind that you will have to tape the joints and also the corners where the wall meets the other walls and ceiling. Here is a link that might be useful: Drywall Taping...See MoreTransitioning between vaulted wood ceiling and regular drywall ceiling
Comments (8)<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><md>Thanks PPF for the suggestion! I appreciate someone actually giving me some practical advice. I will pass this on to the contractor. Wow Jan, you’re quite the positive one aren’t you?! I wasn’t asking for your opinion on the overall design of my house. I’m quite pleased with everything I’ve done in there! And I AM friends with a great electrician, but he hasn’t installed any of the lights in the living room yet. Nor has he finished installing all of the kitchen lights. Plus, I took this picture in the middle of the night last night so it looks much darker than it actually is in there. Thanks for your thoughtful input though. Patricia, it looks like flooring because it is flooring! I couldn’t find any “ceiling” boards that I liked or were wide enough, so we got creative. It’s acacia wood and it looks beautiful. I just wanted help with a trim piece, not redesigning/deconstructing my room!...See More- 11 days agolast modified: 10 days ago
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