Non scratch wire mesh cleaning cloths
caflowerluver
11 days ago
last modified: 11 days ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (9)
Related Discussions
gopher-proofing with wire mesh
Comments (46)I see this is an old thread, but in answer to the original question, yes the wire will girdle the roots and kill the trees; I have first hand experience in Central CA and about 16" annual rainfall. Galvanized wire does not readily rot out...not for years and after 15 years at my place it's still there. Plain steel wire in the necessary thin gauge is hard to find as poultry mesh. Note there may be some species that can create new tissue around the wire but I have never seen a list and don't have the time to experiment. I have seen trees grow around barbed wire fences but I have never cut one in-section to see if the tree's phloem actually healed over the wire or if it just looks that way and since the wire was straight it did not ring-bark the tree. For sure we lost our apricots and walnuts. I have one large sycamore (no basket) next to three stunted sycamores (with baskets). When we realized this was happening to the fruit trees, we carefully dug around 1/2 the tree to the wire basket and carefully cut the wire around the roots. Then we waited for a season for healing the disturbed 1/2 and then cut the other side. All in all it seems a day late and a dollar short because the orchard growth stalled. We now plant new trees in oversized holes lined with thin, 1" concrete pavers, extending a couple inches above the top of the soil while being careful to make sure no holes larger than 1/2-3/4" exist between the pavers. It seems to be working extremely well. We have not had any issues with gophers jumping over the top but if we do we will simply place something on top of the soil around the tree. Our theory is this: Once a paver is buried in the ground, it's very difficult or impossible to move without a large enough hole created by the gopher to allow it to shift. We surmise gophers can't think the mechanics through and are not generally that lucky to stumble upon the solution. I suppose if the gopher chose to make it's primary burrow right next to the pavers, one could fall out of place. The tree root, however, can get through the holes between the pavers and slowly push the paver out of the way as it grows without being ring-barked/girdled. I think of roots growing under and buckling a sidewalk to visualize the power of a root. To date, we have had great luck and no girdled trees. So, what about cost? Well, the argument that a hundred dollar hole might make a thousand dollar tree and a 10 dollar hole might kill it is a good one. I happen to have a ready-supply of paver off-cuts and rejects to keep my cost down. We have speculated about what to do to keep the costs down and have thought of many alternate ways while keeping the original concept intact: a lined hole where roots can grow through the liner but gophers cannot get at the young tree to do their damage When the day comes for me to make a hole and line it with something different than pavers to save money, I plan to try this one first as a cost-saver: Dig an oversize hole with sloped walls. Mix up some inexpensive fence-post mix, or stucco, or a home made mix (add some extra sand to make it go farther –it can be a weak mix). Make it a stiff-mix and line the hole with the mud, making an in-ground bowl, more or less. Then cut or score deep lines in the firm mud in a large grid (6"?) so as to allow the bowl to break to bits once dry. Now poke holes through the mix where the lines cross; it's these holes that will serve as drainage and for the roots to grow out of so be sure they go all the way through. We thought of pounding in wood stakes while the bowl set up for awhile and removing prior to back-filling the hole. We speculate, too, that if it were a really weak mix ( 1 part cement to 10 or 12 parts sand) that poking a bunch of holes in the mud is all that would be needed (no scoring lines) and the tree would win the day at time of breaking. None of what is done in making the lined hole needs to be pretty, it just needs to confound the gophers and allow the tree to bust-its-way out. It's labor intensive, like the pavers, but no too costly on materials. The hole can be filled with soil when wet, and the tree thus planted, too, so it should be fairly fast. Again, you can cap the buried bowl with wire if your gophers like to travel over-land. One component I would like to add would be sprinkling something on the fresh mortar to counter the change in PH while the bowl cures underground; perhaps acidic Redwood mulch? What other ideas are out there? How about up-cycling flattened tin cans from the recycling bin and lining the hole and letting them compost? If anyone has an idea on how to make a lined hole where roots can grow through the liner but gophers cannot get at the young tree to do their damage, I'd love to hear it!...See MoreRecommended wire mesh size of Round Pen to make compost
Comments (21)Kimmsr wrote: > ....1/2 inch mesh galvanized hardware cloth in the same size is about $350.00. Kimmsr, that's not a good price. Here's a much better price :-) A 4-foot-tall, 50-foot-long roll of 1/4-inch mesh galvanized hardware cloth on Amazon is $73, which includes free shipping. It's the best price I've found anywhere, except for the occasional seller on Craig's List. Here's the link: Amazon's 4x50-foot, 1/4-inch roll I got mine through Craig's List from a great local farmer who had some new stock he had never used or opened. It was a quick 35-minute drive to his place in O'Fallon or Shiloh, Illinois, really close to SWIC. I'm in Missouri. A 1/2-inch mesh roll is $13 more on Amazon for some reason. A 100-foot roll of 1/2-inch mesh on Amazon is $155 to $177 which includes shipping: 4x100-foot roll of 1/2-inch mesh I'm a cheap guy so I searched everywhere before buying the hardware cloth like: Froogle.com PriceGrabber.com The Big Box stores Ebay.com Local hardware stores like Tru Value (did you know different local Tru Value stores sell at different prices. I guess each is individually franchised. Thanks for the Bennecky's Tru Value tip, Robertz6--Bennecky's Tru Value has better pricing than the Tru Value close to me.) Amazon.com and Craig's List and maybe a couple other places I've forgotten....See MoreWire mesh as part of roof???
Comments (13)Construction grade plastic (used to cover your windows?) is not designed for prolonged use outdoors under strong UV light. It will break down very quickly and need replacing very quickly whether you inflate or not. Greenhouse grade poly has UV protection in it to prevent it from breaking down so quickly. My poly is 6 mil which is plenty thick and sturdy. Farmtek sells a greenhouse film, with UV inhibitors that is comparable to what I use. The 5.2 oz sample you tried is not appropriate for greenhouse covering. It is for roll up curtains. Do yourself a favor and use poly designed for greenhouses and for growing plants, no matter what other techniques or methods you eventually decide to go with. There are other advantages, in addition to those already mentioned -They diffuse the light which gets it to the bottom leaves of plants more effectively and filters out UV which reduces the chance of scorching leaves inside the gh. Also, greenhouse poly doesn't tear as easily as construction grade plastics. It can be easily repaired if it happens to get punctured for whatever reason with patching tape made specifically for gh poly. Patching is also easier when the sheet is nice and taught, as it would be if inflated. The method you are describing, hanging one layer below the rafters was addressed and commented on in a post about a year ago. To do this requires a lot more labor than the traditional method of inflating two layers. In the inflation method, both layers of poly are laid on top of the structure and only fastened around the edges. Then air is pumped in between, creating a pillow of air with all the advantages described above-with no need for mesh. Every time you puncture the plastic, you create a weak point. Nailing though lath, which is how I understand you plant to attach the poly, will create lots of weak points along the rafters underneath. The lath will also be tricky to remove and reuse in subsequent reskins. BTW- When securing the poly with lath along the edges, roll the poly around the lath twice. This will help transfer the holding power from the nails to the entire edge of the lath and make it much more secure. It will also help create a more air tight seal for inflating : ). For a future upgrade from lath, I recommend the "wiggle" or "zig zag" wire system. Once the base extrusion is installed, it is very easy to attach and remove the poly. You can easily retrofit this system anytime you reskin. For small jobs and for quick installation, I still use 1/2" staples and batten tape to fasten poly to wood. Considering that you may even be able to get 5 to 10 years of life out of good poly, you may not even need to change to glass or plexi. Both of those have considerable disadvantages to inflated poly IMHO. The upgrade to make would be to polycarbonate as mentioned by tsmith earlier. I did some quick math: at 18" spacing a 2x 4 on edge (1.5 inches) will create up to 9% shade if you include the end rafters in the calculation. That is significant shade right off the bat! The effect would only be amplified during the winter when shadows might be wider/longer and the sun is not nearly as strong nor the days nearly as long as the summer. The movement of the sun will not have much if any effect on the overall shadow/shade effect. Nearly every plant will experience close to 100% shade for a short period of time, several times a day (for each rafter shadow). Also the wire mesh: I calculated that 14 gauge welded wire mesh with 2 inch openings would add another 5% or so shade. F. DeBaggio...See Morecleaning non-slip surface in tub
Comments (69)While it looks like there is a variety of successful approaches, I think the reason some have success with one approach and others don't is the nature of the stains. Some stains are simple body oils stuck in the texture of the nonslip pads. Using something alkaline like shampoo should work for those to soften the stains and allow them to be scrubbed lightly. WD-40 should also dissolve those and lift them. Other stains are based on hard water build up of calcium. The calcium can't be seen because it is white but the calcium will catch and hold the body oils. If you cannot get the calcium off, the stains remain. This is where an acidic approach would work. Barkeeper's Friend is oxalic acid with a mild abrasive. If the stains are calcium based, this should wash them away very easily. I would like to suggest another approach to the plain body oils with no calcium build up. There is a cleaner used in the automotive detailing industry called Super Clean. It comes in a purple spray bottle at auto stores, hardware stores, Walmart, etc. It is basically 409 on steroids. If you have trouble breathing when using 409, then you will really have trouble breathing around Super Clean. I bought some for my car and, of course, it works great. Then I read the label and decided to try it in the kitchen. The first thing I tried it on was burned on grease on a stainless pan - the bottom of the pan. I sprayed it on and let it sit for a "dwell time" of 10 minutes. Then I ran hot water from the faucet into the pan and 99% of it just rinsed clean with no scrubbing. I thought maybe I had a pan with grease that looked burned on but was just sort of already softened, but no. I tried it again and again with the same results. So that is my experience with Super Clean. I thought someone might give it a try on their tub texture spots and report back here with results....See Morecaflowerluver
11 days agomorz8 - Washington Coast
11 days agolast modified: 11 days agocaflowerluver thanked morz8 - Washington Coastcaflowerluver
11 days agocarolb_w_fl_coastal_9b
11 days agolast modified: 11 days agocaflowerluver thanked carolb_w_fl_coastal_9b
Related Stories
HOUSEKEEPINGHow to Clean Your Washing Machine
Cleaning your washer once a month will ensure that it stays spick-and-span along with your clothes
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPINGWhy Cleaning Window Screens Should Be Part of Your Winter Strategy
Dirty mesh blocks light, heat and views. Learn how to keep screens looking good and if they should be put away until spring
Full StoryORGANIZINGProfessional Tips for Organizing Your Clothes Closet
As summer draws to a close, get expert advice on editing and organizing your wardrobe
Full StoryCLOSETSSpring-Cleaning Moves to Help You Feel Better About Your Closet
It’s possible to love your clothes storage space, no matter how small
Full StoryLAUNDRY ROOMSMake a Clean Break With Laundry Chaos
Bins and bags, sorters and other storage — we've got several loads' worth of ways to keep your laundry neat
Full StoryTHE ART OF ARCHITECTUREDesign Workshop: Put Industrial Mesh to Work Around the Home
From open gratings to fine weaves, commercial metal mesh is a durable and beautiful choice for residences too
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSMy Houzz: Clean, Cool and Bright in Austin
Natural light, lots of white and enviable tidiness give artwork the spotlight in a home for Texas newlyweds
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPINGHow to Clean Stainless Steel
Protect this popular kitchen material with a consistent but gentle cleaning routine
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPINGHow to Clean a Glass Shower Door
See which tools and methods will keep those glass shower walls and doors sparkling clean
Full Story
colleenoz