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Building a Home Design Dilemma Kitchens

kitchen island design

Johanna Mcbride

3 years ago

I’m looking for a little feedback on our kitchen island in our new custom home. Our floor plan and CAD design shows a 8’x3’3” island. We never really anticipated though quit of the island because it lined up with the walls of the kitchen. I think I was under the assumption that it was 4 feet. We are using IKEA base cabinets for the island and they are 24 inches deep. With the 3’3” island, I think we can get by without having a second set of cabinets to support the quartz countertop. If we extend the island to 4 feet, we will have to get either a pony wall to support the extended countertop or 15” deep IKEA cabinets facing the living room under the overhang of the countertop. In the attached picture, the white lines on the island show 3‘3“. The green lines show the extended for foot. What would you do?!

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Comments (7)

PRO
User
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Narrower, for a better walkway. But ALL of those variations need counter support engineered into the island design.

The overall could use redesign. The pinch point in the end with the stove, the weird outswing pantry doors that interferes with fridge access, the badly dimensioned storage of the pantry that should be just added to the kitchen, the fridge whose doors won’t really open, etc.
Johanna Mcbride
Original Author
3 years ago
Thank you for the feedback. The house is already framed in and we’re not really sure what we’re doing with the pantry door. It may be a barn door that slides. I don’t really know what a pinch point is by the stove? We have updated the pantry slightly in that the door frame is slid to the left a few inches (if looking at the pantry door straight on) so in the future if you want to add a cabinet inside the pantry we have to e correct dimension. Here is a better view of the actual floor plan.
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Comments (3)
If you have at least 18" to 24" of distance b/w the back of the sink/faucet and the edge of the seating overhang, you should be OK. For a cleanup sink, I recommend 21" or more (more splashing potential!) BTW...You need at least 15" if there is no sink or cooktop; 24" if there is a cooktop. Having the dirty dishes "front & center" for all to see and "in the face" of someone sitting at the island are two of the disadvantages of having your cleanup sink in the island. Are you putting your sink in the island b/c you want to prep facing people? Could you have two sinks - cleanup sink on the perimeter and a prep sink in the island? This has several advantages: Dirty dishes are not "front & center" and are not "in the face" of those sitting at the island Less splashing & flooding b/c while you will be prepping (cleaning/rinsing veggies, fruit, etc.), you won't be washing pots & pans, dishes, etc. More usable workspace on the island. Depending on your complete design - it may also offer you better separation of work zones - especially separating the Cleanup Zone from the Prep Zone. No competition for counterspace b/w dirty dishes and the need to prep. Much more usable space on the island for large projects such as school/science projects, crafts, baking, decorating cookies, wrapping gifts, buffets, etc. Note that this is one of the greatest advantages of an island - all that wonderful workspace! If you're interested in exploring other possible layouts - let us know. Check out the "Read Me" thread (linked below). It has a wealth of information - including an explanation of work zones and how to ask for layout help. Scroll down the thread for the various topics. Good luck, whatever you decide! Here is a link that might be useful: New To Kitchens? Posting Pics? Read Me!
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Kitchen island design help, please
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Comments (8)
I regularly use Franke ARX 11013 or 11014 are sinks for prep. The 14 is one basin of a double. Either can fit in an 18" deep cabinet but the 14 must be turned sideways. My own island has 18" deep cabinets set back to back with seating around one end. I have an arx 11014 at the other end in the left side of a 30" wide frameless cabinet with a 3" blind on the right end, a RAS trash on the right door. The plumbing is located to allow maximum clearances allowing large trays, pizza pans, baking stone and I'm able to slide the handle of a pizza peal and the extra oven rack for the stone up between the edge of sink and cabinet. No tray dividers need, the sink drain pipes act as a stop keeping all to one side. There is an outlet in the blind. If I were to do it nowadays- would add 1/2" to the cabinet making the blind wider for easier outlet install. Variations are possible. Could be done with framed cabinets with some adjustments. Fitting all this requires careful planning of everything.
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Not knowing your style or color preferences, keep in mind this is off the cuff. Large wall could use a sideboard, or large shelving unit like the one in my pic below from RH which is what your stools style look similar to), colorful artwork the colors of which then get reflected in the rugs (lower L and R) (as runners, under table, in front of sink/stove, wherever) and a few accessories, like a colorful table runner or small lumbar pillows (upper R fabric) for head chairs and stools. Top R is small square of woven rattan shade sample for doors. I personally like layers of window treatments and would also do sheer white/light linen panels hung high that can be pushed to either side. The dining area right now is ‘heavy’ because table, chairs and door frames are darker than the white cabinets/counter/backsplash & light natural wood stools. Need to bring some white/light to dining side, and then spread some color/pattern/texture throughout both spaces to further tie them together.
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It's definitely easier to get on and off the stools if it's open but the side panels look nicer. Can you do three stools instead of 4? (We had an enclosed peninsula that was 54" and it was cumbersome with two small barstools.)
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PRO
User
3 years ago
The pinch point between the range and island. You don’t calculate aisle distances from cabinet to cabinet. You calculate them from the furthest protuberance to the counter overhang.

The pantry really doesn’t add anything. It takes away from the kitchen. You’d get 80% of the same storag, but 150% better kitchen, with a bigger island, just by incorporating it into the kitchen.
anj_p
3 years ago
Agree with @User. Also, consider putting your DW on the other side of your sink if you can, so it's not in the prep space between sink & range.
Johanna Mcbride
Original Author
3 years ago
That’s interesting. And something that I have not thought about. But if I do that with the kitchen then I lose my sink in my laundry room.
anj_p
3 years ago
Reach in pantries are expensive, but lovely (the cabinetry is $$$ while wire shelving is not). Walk-ins are less expensive, but also space hogs (as you can see).

There are ways for you to keep your laundry sink and get a reach in pantry. You just eliminate the corner cab and keep the walls as they are.
Johanna Mcbride
Original Author
3 years ago
I wish I had posted all of this sooner. I appreciate the feedback so much.

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