Insulation/vapour barrier necessary/recommended for skylight?
crushedpurple
5 years ago
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klem1
5 years agocrushedpurple
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
Insulation and no vapor barrier questions... help
Comments (19)It depends on where you are located. I have always lived in Canada and the codes call for foundations and footings for buildings, decks and fence posts to be 4 feet below ground, because of frost penetration and heave. This extreme cold transmits through concrete walls. You can feel the cold on the walls and if the basement is not heated, frost will actually form on the surface. This is a fact, as I had a house with no central heat in the basement once. As well as possibly creating damaging condensation within finished walls, without insulation and vapour barrier, it can result in mold. It will also increase the cost of heating the overall house. I am a retired architect and have renovated several of my own houses which were handy men projects, so have gone through the whole gamut many times....See MoreRigid insulated duct for ERV instead of flex
Comments (1)Metal duct with externally applied isulati. Make sure the sheet metal is sealed at EVERY joint (every corner also) before the insulation goes on. You likely will have to assemble, seal , then insulate the duct into one piece below its final position and then raise it up as required. Luckily it is not heavy, just big and flimsy. Since I usually had only a small work team, we would raise pieces of duct work like this using nylon webbing. At least one strap for each section of metal ducting to avoid stressing the joints between sections any more than we had to. Extra metal was often placed across the sealed joints from section to section to strengthen the large assembly. Pop rivets to attach it all, and then mastic to seal the rivets. We shortened the webbing by stapling it to the sides of adjacent joists over and over to raise the piece nearly level. Then final strapping to hold it in place and removing the webbing used to raise it. Attach to the fixed end (outside wall collar) and then fit to the ERV (since you can at least move it slightly during attaching and sealing). It looks like on of the dumbest ways to install a run of duct, but it results in great sealing that survives installation with no leaks being introduced....See MoreHow to fill cavity with insulation and vapor barrier
Comments (6)you wouldn't want to sandwich the insulation between two vapor barriers. finding out what the vapor barrier location is for Oaklahoma would be the first step. I think they put theirs to the interior (whereas we put ours to exterior) also the rest of the walls may be uninsulated also. just how we built in the 70's. as I've worked on my house I've added insulation to the walls I've opened. does it help...but not as much as the air sealing has. best of luck...See MoreOpen Cell Attic Insulation. No baffles/No vapor barrier?
Comments (11)I'm no cold climate expert, but was sure that cold climates use closed cell, not open cell. the reasoning behind foam insulating attics is to make an air tight, unvented, semi-conditioned attic space. no baffles, no soffit, rigde, passive or gable vents. air tight. the foam seal between the roof & the attic floor has to be continuous & air tight. depth of the foam should also be continuous. we do this here in the south, open cell unvented attic, because in 90% of homes, the ductwork is in the attic. putting insulation on the roof line creates an insulated space around the ducts, allowing them to perform better. it also solves the issues of condensation of high efficiency hvac systems here. nationwide, the unvented attic solves the issues of thermal bypasses. (openings between attic space & living spaces.) trades people make lots of holes in ceilings & cover the openings with covers, trim kits, supply grills etc. however the foam sealed addition attic would have to be separated from the rest of the house, unless you are foaming the whole roof. I'd check with other spray foam insulators about type of foam, and get a few more bids while you are at it. do you have ductwork in the attic? adding hvac to addition? know that foam insulated attics allow for smaller more efficient hvac systems. have system sized (manual J) for addition. best of luck....See Morecrushedpurple
5 years agomillworkman
5 years agomillworkman
5 years agocrushedpurple
5 years agomillworkman
5 years agoTony Stevens
5 years agoTony Stevens
5 years agocrushedpurple
5 years agoWindows on Washington Ltd
5 years agoTony Stevens
5 years agocrushedpurple
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoM Miller
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agocrushedpurple
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agocrushedpurple
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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