Thanks so much to everyone - I so appreciate the time you have taken to write. I know time is precious and I really do appreciate it. Well...here's an update. The water soaked in too fast for me to do much of anything about it (other than cry). I emailed the Extension Ofc @ UCDavis and called three garden centers. The advice all seemed to be the same: soak it with hose water a couple of times over that same day and the next, then let it dry out. The prognosis was not good though. I guess the pool water actually burns the tree, through the roots. Once it's in the ground, there is nothing I can add to nuetralize it (other than maybe water to flush it down). I tested the water to see if hopefully it was not too chlorinated. Bad news - it was FULL of chlorine. I am praying hard it survives. I had just gone to a library in another city to get a book on how to prune it and spent HOURS selecting just the right little twigs to cut...trying not to cut too much, or too little. I was up in a ladder visiting with it while pruning and when I was finished, it really looked great. All this was about one week before Niagara Falls poured in. It would've been funny if it wasn't me. I'm running around in circles trying to figure out where the heck the water shut off valve is. My neighbor came over and turned off the water, but it wasn't to the spa. Then he sticks his hand in the jacuzzi and realizes it's not a jet, but a fill valve the water's coming from. I followed a hissing sound and found a valve I didn't even know existed, and turned it off. Meanwhile, my darling son (9) is madly bailing out water from the spa (and dumping it on more plants until I tell him to put it in the pool instead). Like I said, if it wasn't ME, I might be smiling when I think back on it. As it is, I'm just so sad... I think I might know within a few days how bad it is, right? I mean...if it looks ok in a couple weeks, do you think it will still die later on? (as long as NO MORE chlorine gets on it). Moving it is not an option...it's waaay too big. If it does live, I will send you all a virtual nectarine!

I'll say what I want to say, and when I want to say it. If someone doen't like it, when you see "srercrcr"...just move on. ---------------- Don't forget your ball as you march off the playground...lol BTW... Trex is a mixture of wood and plastic. Meaning it does contain wood. Your Trex does absorb water. Not alot, but it does. 1.Your trex will never last as long as ipe. 2.Your trex can stain and fade and when it does, you're stuck with it. Unless you want to start putting stain on it like other wood deck people. 3.If you do get a gouge you can't sand it off because it will take your wood grain stamp off. 4.Your trex is not as fireproof as ipe. This means something to people who have bbq's or live in states that have wildfires and have blowing cinders in the air from time to time. 5.Your trex is not as hard as ipe so you need more joists, more joist hangers. 6. Your trex is more money than ipe. 7. Your trex does not compare to the rich appearance of ipe when it's stained. Composites have their niche in construction but to claim they have taken over the decking industry.. you said- ""about wood decking material....all because you're trying to use something in an inappropriate manner'''' This comment is way out in left field. Wood decking will be around a long time. It's more pliable, fixable and cleanable than composites at this given time. Don't be mad now, it's only decking talk... take a chill pill plastic man.

"On the building" is precisely where Joey's electricians are proposing putting the conduit. That is the only thing pertinent to this conversation. The circuit is not going to a hot tub in the middle of the yard, but a bathtub on the second floor. In my experience, the reason EMT is not allowed between the disconnect ON the house and a hot tub in the middle of the yard is that it is only allowed on or above grade....so the electrician puts it on top of the ground, and someone trips on it and bends it. Then the homeowner buries it in 2" of dirt, etc, violating codes. Any other conduit is either stronger, or able to be buried, so EMT is just the wrong/worst choice if it can't be attached to and supported by the building. MC would have to be a type rated for wet locations where applicable. Probably not the same stuff you are thinking of.

on the second page of the spec sheet it has a chart with one section labeled temperature raise. One module only does a 22 degree temp raise at 4 gpm. SO if your groundwater is 55 you will only be able to raise it to 77 at 4 gpm. I like my water at least 100 degrees, so if the water is 55 and you need a 45 degree raise, it will only do 2 gpm, that's with NO other water mixed in, so it will take a long long time to fill. You said its 110 gallons or so, at 4 gpm it will still take 25 minutes...so you need something that can put out enough hot water to fill it in about 10-15 minutes (so it doesn't get cold waiting to fill) . I know I like it warmer than 100 (maybe 105?) because back when I was pregnant I used to use a pool thermometer because they suggest pregnant women not bathe in over 100 degree. I was OK with 100, but wished it could be warmer! If you have gas, then price out a dedicated tankless for it. Its probably easier then running a special electric line assuming you have gas anyway. As far as the 75 gal tank. If it heats water to 130 and you use all 75 gal, that means you are mixing that 75 gal with cold water...how cold does your water get (didn't notice your location)? Try mixing 7 cups of your hottest water with 5 cups of your COLD water and see how it comes out. (I think that is the same proportions as 70 gal hot and 50 gal cold=120gal.