will this work with tufa I wonder? anybody do this yet? I think I found the web site needed http://www.make-stuff.com/formulas/flexmold.html This is new mold material is much superior to ordinary gelatin (mold glue) and is very easily made. It does not shrink or dry out like ordinary casting gelatins. If made according to directions it will retain all its original qualities indefinitely, and can be remelted when necessary. FORMULA: Flake Gelatin . . . . . . . 4 1/2 pounds Water . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1/2 pints Glycerin . . . . . .. . . . . 9 pounds Glucose . . . . . . . . . . .1 pound Denatured Alcohol . . 1 ounce PROCESS: Place the gelatin in a large container and pour the water over same; then cover container with damp cloth to prevent evaporation. Mix up thoroughly with the hands every ten minutes to keep water evenly distributed, otherwise the bottom will absorb too much water and the top portion will dry out and harden. Replace cloth after each mixing. After gelatin is thoroughly softened, squeeze out all surplus water (if any), and place in double boiler and melt. A few minutes after it begins to melt start stirring and keep stirring until the gelatin is all melted and free from lumps. Then add the glycerin (which should have previously been heated) and stir until blended. Continue to stir until all ingredients are thoroughly incorporated and remove from fire. Now add the alcohol and stir until thoroughly blended with the rest of the mixture. The compound is now ready for use. Do not add water when remelting. A double boiler can easily be made by using two metal buckets or pans, one larger than the other. Put a few stones in the bottom of the larger container and partly fill with water. Then put mold compound into smaller container and place it in large container. There should be enough water in large container to come up at least half way on outside of small container. The stones are to prevent the small container from touching the bottom and thereby burning the mixture. Leave unused material in container in which it was melted. HOW TO GET THE ABOVE COMPOUND TO MAKE MOLDS: First select the article you desire to duplicate. Almost all articles can be duplicated, such as celluloid novelties, metal toys, dolls, etc. Articles cast in compositions, book-ends, emblems, etc. If the article to be cast is very simple, with one entire side flat like a book-end, emblem, or plaque, it is only necessary to lay it on some flat, smooth surface, like glass or marble, face up. Place a frame of wood or metal bars around it, having oiled the object and other parts well; then pour the pliable mold composition over it. However, for more complicated things such as door stops and novelties in forms of dogs, cats, dolls, etc., you will have to make a mold in two pieces. To make two piece molds, plaster should be used to reinforce the mold. To make good molds you must bear in mind that both this compound and rubber gives under the weight of the casting material. Therefore, some means must be used to hold molds made from these materials in shape. It must be made so that the mold can easily be removed from the reinforcing shell so that the mold may then be removed from the casting without damaging it. After you have applied the molding composition or last coat of rubber and compound starts to set - spread about 1/2 inch thickness of plaster mortar over it with a trowel, let set and then remove it. For full body molds in two parts - make one half, let it stand until set, cut notches in the plaster shell around the edge that will be spliced to the other half and then apply rubber and plaster to the other half. To prevent the plaster sticking, coat the splice edge of the first half with two coats of ordinary rubber cement.

Kirk, Yes there is a product called MOSQUITO DUNKS. They float around in bird baths and water features and do not hurt birds. They keep larva from hatching or something like that. (?????) I could cut one up and put a bit in each bottle if the sun does not evaporate the water (while it is evaporating the Spirits dont cha know). James, No the bottles are unfortunatly not old. Ebay had some red bottles that were listed around $30. which is too rich for my Charlie Brown Tree. My house trim color is a brick red. So red bottles plus amber bottles equals brick red when you look at them together. That is all of the math I know and that made me dizzy. (You see who your dealing with now.) I live life on the happy side of the brain. flowerlady- If I could do it over again I would have asked for more of those branches. They make great indoor decor like curtain hangers, outdoor trelises, twinkle lite trees for entertaining, ect. The secret is in the staining and poly treatment. They become richer. Susie

princesspez - Whee - this is a really oldie but goodie post. In re-reading it, I have confirmed what the writers have offered. Perhaps at the time of reading them, I was too busy "doing my own thing" to really appreciate the great advice. However, your recent post mentions "adding more wine" throughout the year. Personally, I wouldn't disturb the wine/mother combination until it has reached it's final fermentation. It may take several months - and when it tastes as you like, remove the "mother" and start another batch if you like. Strain out the mother and save it - or start anew. Then I bring the completed vinegar to a boil to stop any tail ends of "mother" left that would continue fermentation, and store in a capped bottle for present use. You could measure the acidity with a meter if you like, and if you intend to use it for pickling - it should be OK as long as it is 5% - as mine turned out to be). I hope to do some string beans this next summer with white wine vinegar - and perhaps now that I'm thinking about it, should start the wine "cooking" now. The instructions on the commercial "mother" is as follows: Use a clean 1 gallon jar or bottle. Add to the culture: 16 oz. of wine. 8 oz. of water. Air is necessary for conversion of alcohol to vinegar so plug opening with cloth - I used cheesecloth and a rubber band. Keep in 80 to 90 degree temperatures. Complete conversion is possible in 3 months. Use the finished vinegar as a culture to make more vinegar using the same proportions. The instructions don't continue to include stopping the fermentation - but I remember inquiring at that time and so did the boil step as well. About sourdough bread - since my posting, bread making has improved somewhat. For what it's worth, I have added potato water (heating to 80 degrees and adding yeast and sugar for proofing), in the recipe I'm using in place of the water called for. It seems to give my bread a lighter consistency. One other "helpful hint - from ???) is to allow the bread to rise slowly, acquiring more air. I put the dough in my microwave - no heat) until it rises, rather than a warmer room temperature might be. Also brush the bread with water both before rising and before baking - nice crusty crusts. I add back water and flour to the culture and store in the fridge. Take it out the day before, and let it "do its thing" all day - smells great. My son (my critique person) really liked the last bakings. He puts grated roman cheese on it - and toasts. Anyway, this is my upate. Just my 2 c's. Bejay

I have never made any of them, but it sounds interesting. I just do container candles so my wax wouldn't work for a project like that. Susan