Thanks everyone. For someone new to asparagus, I really don't think it was THAT unreasonable of me to expect to see some signs of life. Just a sign of life, even a wee sign that the roots I planted were viable. Everything that I read about asparagus suggested that it's supposed to be one of the first plants to emerge in early spring... and well, it's been spring for a while and we've been having a really warm spring, here in the "banana belt of Idaho." Bareroot asparagus was available at the beginning of February and that is when I snatched up my crowns. I waited several weeks, until my existing rhubarb patch came up and started growing strong, until planting my asparagus (at the same time, I also planted some more bareroot rhubarb and that came up within a week). I know that much of the world is still in the depths of a harsh winter, but we had a mild winter and a warm spring with lots of sunshine and lots of nice rain. I expect to begin harvesting some snap peas this week and I have some broccoli that I planted over a month ago that are forming nice heads. Just considering how well everything in my garden is growing so far this year, and because I have no previous experience with asparagus, I just thought that they would have shown some sign that they are alive by now. ...But life would be really boring if everything behaved as one expected and if one never learned anything new. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, eh? I know this probably was a waste of time and back-breaking energy (but at least I got some good exercise and was able to spend several lovely hours enjoying my garden in the sunshine!!!), I ended up redigging and replanting all of my asparagus crowns over the weekend. My plan is to just see if any of them make it and try to do the best for them, and then just replace crowns next spring for those who don't pull through. Anyway, catch ya' later! This post was edited by fern1knits on Mon, Apr 7, 14 at 10:32

I can hear that you're very frustrated, but I don't understand why you want to take such drastic measures, lol. Though, I have thought about scrapping the whole thing from time to time. I'm a first time gardener. I have to tell you that we had snow on May first, lol, so it sounds like we have similar areas. If your squash are otherwise healthy, you shouldn't get flowers until now anyway. Spray the evil bugs off with your garden hose and then give em a real good spray with soapy water. I was a little freaked out over a few different kinds of good bugs in my garden (ex: pill bugs eat compost). Are your cucumbers small because they've just formed? Or do they need to be pollinated? If they're healthy, they'll just keep producing more cukes until a few get pollinated correctly and one grows to full ripeness. If you planted in mid-May, most tomato varieties won't be ready to produce yet, lol. I have two romas that are two feet tall. Every other plant is four feet tall or taller, but those romas I started a bit later (mid-May, btw) and haven't started their real growth yet. One of them has decided to keep up with the Joneses and is trying to produce, and that has it's own set of issues. Overall, if your leaves are green, you're doing just fine. Toss a bit of compost on those squash and get rid of those bugs. One word of caution is, if those little bugs you found are squash bugs, I understand they'll saw right through your stems, so you should take immediate, decisive action. It doesn't sound like them from your description. IMHO: you're doing just fine, you're entering the home stretch, don't give up just yet. Grace, Carolyn P.

If the heavy soil is killing the flowers buy lighter soil and dump it on top, without mixing it with the existing soil, plant in that. Or choose adapted flowers. You will have to do the same with shrubs, if the kinds you want don't like clay soils they won't be any happier with the existing soil than the flowers were. Is there a hedge, wall or solid fence behind the border, as in the above photo? If not you should install such or plant evergreen shrubs behind, informally arranged, as well as at corners or ends to in either case form a sort of stage for the smaller plants (groundcovers and dwarf shrubs, if no herbaceous plants are to be used). In the well-designed mixed border deciduous shrubs serve primarily to form transitions between the bulkiness of evergreen kinds and the lightness of non-woody plants. Flowering climbers like clematis and roses can be trained on fences, walls or hedges, to include them in the planting, as well as large deciduous shrubs like lilacs that provide no summer interest otherwise.

Personally, I restart seeds after about two weeks or so. I will still keep the originals to see if they finally pop, but I don't want to get too far behind in case they never do sprout. It has been my experience that most all peppers (with a few exceptions) will sprout within two weeks if they are going to at all. Like I said, there are a few exceptions but even most super hots will pop within two weeks if they are under proper conditions. Heat and moisture are the two biggies. Too little or too much is not good. 70 to 85 for soil heat and constant moisture without being soggy is good. If you grew several other varieties of peppers and they sprouted fine, then I would consider it a problem with the seed. If you had wide spread failures to sprout, then I would look more at your setup. My 7 Pot Brain Strain-Yellow seeds that I got from the trade actually were the first to sprout for me. They were going strong at 6 days. The photo below shows my early sprouts. Notice the ones that sprouted first were near the center of the heat mat that I had them on. That probably had something to do with it. I expect it was just a bit warmer there than on the outside cells. If you click on the photo it should open in a bigger size so you can see it easier.