Wood Wax Recommendations?
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Recommendation for heirloom pole wax bean
Comments (3)I have an heirloom wax pole bean called Barksdale. We got it from my wife's grandparents in 1983, who got it from a great aunt years before. They all lived in and around Salem, Illinois. Someone in Seed Savers once sent me a photo copy of an article (I think it was Beans of New York) on the Andalusia Wax Pole Bean, which sounded a lot like this bean. However the seed of Barksdale is longer than wide and Andalusia was supposedly almost as wide as long. Barksdale is an excellent late pole bean, but doesn't germinate well in the heat. Also, during the hot dry time of the summer its pollen appears to die without setting beans. But when cooler nights come and it gets going and it produces LOTS of tender, flat, stringless snaps. A couple of vines of this bean supplies all our familyÂs demand for snaps, just late in the season. Barksdale has white seed. Large flat pods 7 inches long and slightly over ½ inch wide. Barksdale is available through the Seed Savers Exchange. I, of course, have seed and would be willing to send you a sample....See MoreAnyone waxing wood floors anymore?
Comments (5)My suggestions may not be applicable to your situation. I have dark oak flooring from the 1970's that was supposedly factory-finished except that the finish wasn't very good. So I wax. Try to remove the old wax with an oil-based solvent such as mineral spirits(? I forget what I used) or lacquer thinner. These are pretty bad, so make sure you have adequate ventilation. Your hardware store may have other suggestions. Just get on the floor with the solvent, paper towels, gloves, gentle scrub brush, and trash can. It's easier to control the amount of solvent and cleaning if you clean the floor manually. The paper towels indicate how much junk is left on the floor. Being close to the floor gives you a better idea of how much soil/sand/debris is left. I used to use Johnson's paste wax, which was fine, except that the flooring has a very "rustic" texture which made removing excess wax impossible. The build-up eventually turned yellow. So now I use Bruce "liquid wax with cleaner". It doesn't last as long as paste wax, but the process doesn't take as long. Again, I just get down on the floors, pour and wipe to spread, wait a few minutes, and buff by hand with old terrycloth towels or old socks. I used to use a buffer, but it got too hard to handle as I got older. Plus, the areas next to the wall had to be buffed by hand anyway. Just put yourself in a Zen state. Wax as needed. You can spot wax the areas with heavy traffic. Just don't wax too frequently. Once a year may be enough. HTH...See MoreBest wax/polish for wood furniture?
Comments (28)Lemon oil is a popular product which many people seem to like. But there are just as many people who say not to use it. I personally have no information or experience with it, but if I wanted to maintain "bare" wood with only an oil finish, I'd use either tung or linseed oil. Tung and linseed oils are well-accepted and non-controversial for wood finishing. However... that said, if you've been using lemon oil and are happy, then thre's no reason to stop on my account. For anyone interested in learning more about wood finishing, I would highly recommend a book by Bob Flexner called "Understanding Wood Finishing". Here's a quote from an article I found online that mentions lemon oil: WAX THE PERFECT PROTECTION for FURNITURE ?Original article from: Wood Magazine JUNE 1989 From a refinishing pro, a preservation expert, and Furniture manufacturers, the answer seems to be "yes." "Wax is the wear and tear, abrasion layer of fine wood furniture," says Ron Ashby, a professional woodworker, refinisher, lecturer, and owner of Wood Finish Supply in Mendocino, California. "superficial scratches, dings, and dents should happen to the wax layer-not the finish you slaved over." DON'T DABBLE IN DUST Despite the multitude of furniture care products that promise to "feed" or "polish" your fine furniture, Ashby believes high-quality furniture wax is the best choice. "All the other care products available attract dust with the residue they leave behind," he says. At Virginia's Colonial Williamsburg, Wallace Gusler, director of conservation, oversees the preservation of authentic colonial furniture. "Our primary concern with pieces that have an intact, original finish is conservation," he says. "For that, we use wax. And, Gusler believes, all wood furniture, not just historic pieces, deserves wax protection. "Everyone collects furniture to some extent, he notes, "But their collection happens to be their household furniture." What about lemon oil, another popular wood-care product? Gusler says, "The value of oil to wood is folklore. Of course, oil gives a wood finish a superficial shine, but it isn't beneficial. In fact," he elaborates, "Commercial lemon oil has nothing to do with lemons. It's essentially kerosene, and can be harmful to a finish."...See MoreWax paper left marks on my wood table...HELP !
Comments (11)If it's wax which sounds likely Two options - brown paper and an iron on mild heat- or benzene (or lighter fluid) can be a little tricky depending on how deep into the wood but I'd expect not that far unless you burned the cookies. Likely will wear off too. Then get a better sealer and as noted wire racks make for better cookies....See More- last year
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