A lot of people are using kitchen height cabinets now (which normally have so many more functions than a vanity). Standard height with countertops for those is 36" high. They're becoming more and more popular as folks realize they don't need to stoop to use the sink in their bathroom. So with that in mind, you could use just about any height between 30 and 36" and have no problems with your sale. One thing to think about....if you're using kitchen height cabinets for your bath, remember that the sink mount makes a difference in the final design. I originally had 36" (finished size) planned for our master and changed to a finished 30" cabinet because our vessel sinks were too high up on the higher cabinets.

We went with the higher "comfort height" vanities in our new build for all the baths with undermount sinks--even the 6yr old's bath. They were not an upcharge with our cabinet supplier. We opted for the standard height vanity in the powder room because of the added height of the vessel sink. We figured the shorter height would result in fewer opportunities for chipping/damaging the sink. One thing to note on the higher vanities--if the toilet will be in close proximity, I would definitely go with a comfort height toilet with a tall style tank or the scale and proportion will look decidedly "off". That was the one 'oops!' we made when we redid my inlaw's bath a couple years ago. (DH & I aren't tall--5'4" for me & 5'8" for him "on a good day" as DH likes to say. DS1 however is 6'0" & still growing and DS2 is 4'0" and growing like a weed.) Mom & Dad did all comfort height vanities in their house 5 years ago except for the upstairs common bath and I have heard Mom say on more than one occasion that the vanity feels low and she would've made that one comfort height too if she had it to do over again. (Mom is 5'4" tall.) From my experience at Mom's if you go with comfort height and you're around my & mom's height, do not use an overly deep sink as they tend to be a little harder/less comfortable to use. Mom used Kohler Devonshire undermount in the guestroom bath (overly deep) vs. Kohler Leighton undermount (pretty standard depth)& Kohler Bancroft undermount(pretty standard depth) in the other comfort height baths. It really does come down to personal preference. I would sit down and discuss it between yourselves and make a list of the pros and cons and go from there. Hope this helps!

We have a similar vanity with tower, but a lot smaller. A couple of things we considered are: Bump out: We didn't do this but now I wish we had. Depth of tower: I didn't like the pictures where the towers were 12" deep or deeper, so I made mine 9" deep. To me, the really deep ones look like a kitchen cabinet is sitting on my vanity. In your picture I would make the 4th drawer from the bottom start above the vanity and be full depth, and then set-back the rest of the tower making it your desired depth. This will give you sort of a hutch-style and the tower won't seem so overwhelming in the space. Height of tower and how to divide up the space? Our tower ends at 8' from the floor, including the trim. This is the same as where the shower glass ends, and the linen cabinet ends. The trim touches the fur-down. From the bottom up the tower has the 2 cm marble piece, an approx 6" dummy drawer/panel (bc of electrical), then a double door cabinet with adjustable shelves (approx 32.5 tall), then a smaller double door cabinet with glass fronts and lights in there (approx 17" tall), then a few inches of trim to reach the 96" mark from the floor. Width of tower in relation to the drawers below it. Ours is the same width of the drawers below it, but there are some pictures on Houzz showing some vanities where the tower is wider or skinnier than the drawers below. Ceiling: How tall are your ceilings? Mine are 10' and I was not liking the pictures of towers that don't tie to the ceiling. There were a few pictures where the cabinet maker used trim to tie it to the ceiling (sometimes filling 2 feet of space with trim and panels) and some where the ceiling was furred down. You will also see some pictures where the tower just stops and is just hanging there looking sort of out of place IMO. We furred down the ceiling above vanity 2' and made it only only 2" deeper than the tower depth and put lights in the fur-down. Lights: For reasons I won't go into, we couldn't put sconces in the mirrors, but I wish we had been able to do that. Electrical: We put 1 outlet on either side of the tower facing out and turned sideways, and 1 inside the tower to charge electric toothbrushes. The bottom drawer of the tower (above counter top) is just a dummy drawer/panel because of the outlets. Towel rings: We put the towel rings on either side of the tower. If you have 2 walls on the ends of the vanity you can put them there. We had an open end, so for symmetry we put them on the tower. Trim of tower when it comes to the mirrors: If you are filling the space over each sink with edge to edge mirrors, have the trim put on the tower after the mirror is in place. In your picture: - water could touch the side of your tower and cause damage over time. If you are willing to have the drawers below only come up as far as your vanity top, then you could install a small piece of stone like in the picture below. But I think that would require you to have a seam which you said you don't want. - love that you have lots of drawers planned. Can you change the sizes of the drawers slightly so that all the drawer pulls will line up rather than staggered? It will look cleaner. On the tower cabinet doors, I prefer knobs instead of pulls. - If you are using the very small drawers for jewelry, I think you can have a small lock installed if you want and it might be nice to line the drawers with a soft felt like in jewelry boxes. Pictures: There are lots of pictures on Houzz if you search vanity with tower. You will be able to see what you like and figure out how you want the tower to tie (or not) to the ceiling.

I got the cabinets through Home Depot (20% off) they are not higher end but they have held up extremely well and we’ve been happy with them. I don’t remember the brand, but the color is cognac on maple. They’re standard kitchen cabinets. We got 2 regular drawer banks, 1 extra wide drawer bank, 2 sink cabinets and the closet you can see in the picture for about 1800 w/the discount. We bumped the shower wall 6 inches into the bedroom to make the shower bigger, pulled the cabinets out from the wall a couple of inches to provide more counter top. And curved the edge the counter for interest. Just for fun, this is what we had to start with. The tub was rusted and there were two doors, 1 from the hall & 1 from the master bedroom, we closed up the hall door. I think we got our moneys worth. LOL As for the labor, I found my Contractor through a plumber I had hired to put in a kitchen faucet. I asked if he had someone good he could refer and he referred Matt to me. Matt had his own company but just him and his guys. All of his work was by word of mouth, he didn’t advertise or push for business, he didn’t need to. I think I got fair pricing from him because he didn’t have the overhead a lot of the larger companies might have. He wasn’t the least expensive and he wasn’t the most expensive. Finding someone who was willing to work on our schedule and not having to have it done ASAP is what really helped me to be able to keep our costs at a minium for both labor and materials.