lepetite matin, if you bake or use the oven in any way that you need to open the door(changing pans around or for something with short cooking times like appetizers or cookies), I would not buy it. There are a couple of long posts about this a few years ago and one of their engineers came on one of the posts to answer questions. He admitted the ovens are not for everyone. One of the dealers supplied a letter from Capital answering complaints about oven performance. I looked on their current manual for the DF ranges and the way it works has not changed. I will post a couple of excerpts from the manual they have online now. The oven works in a a odd way. I had a Dacor wall oven and range that worked the same way and Dacor bought them back. The preheat comes on and heats the oven cavity. This is an intense heat and you cannot put food in during this time. After the preheat completes, it switches to sort of a maintenance mode with the element rapidly cycling on and off to maintain the temperature. When in this mode, it can’t raise the temperature in a timely manner. If you open the oven and lose temperature, it keeps cycling in the maintenance mode and takes a long time to come up. If you open it frequently as in baking cookies, the temperature drifts down but it has to drop 150°F for the preheat to come back on. Every other oven I have had, if the temperature drops 50°F the element comes on and brings the temperature back up quickly in 60 sec. or so. The result is the temperature is all over the place. It might work ok if fully preheated and you don’t open the door for casseroles. It’s the same thing if you turn the temperature up. It will take a long time to go up because it just sits in the maintenance mode with very little capacity to increase the temperature. To illustrate the length of time it takes to move in temperature in that maintenance mode, this section talks about how long it takes to preheat the oven without the preheat. This is time in addition to a normal preheat time. 20 min would be for lower temperatures and 40 min for higher temps. If you needed to preheat to 350°F, it would take about 40-45 min to move 280°F from 70°F to 350°F. If you put something in frozen, it can take longer. If you open the door to check cookies, the temp drops 50°F or if you turn the oven up 50°F it takes 10-15 min to recover. If you open again in 5 min, it hasn’t recovered and it drops again, you can see where it drifts down. There was one poster here who said that she liked that it worked that way. That type of heating did not work for me. There are also a couple of posters who like their connoisseurians but seem to talk about the burners more than the oven. One even had other ovens they used. This was from earlier this year. “Kate May 15, 2019 reading all of these comment a few years later - I've owned a culinarian 36" cookktop and loved it. in new house, new state and getting ready to redo kitchen. really have my sights set on a 48" connoisseurian open burner dual fuel and i started to hyperventilate reading all the reviews on the net about horrible oven performance.”

Kim: You are at the right place(s). The Appliance forum is one important place for you, but the Kitchen forum is equally important. You need to spend weeks (I spent a few months before my reno design firmed up) reading questions and answers on the many topics that are relevant to kitchen design before starting to flesh out your design. Questions that aren't answered in any searched results should be asked. After a while, you will develop a sense of what is important to kitchen design, and particularly to your kitchen design. Get familiar with grid paper, draw and cut out plan view appliances and counters to scale, draw the room boundaries to scale on a clean sheet, and then move stuff about on paper with a view to aesthetics, performance, and particularly kitchen efficiency. Many here will help you. And occasionally, reread this thread. Gas stoves/cooktops have safety considerations that are more stringent than induction cooktops. Reading the International Building Code or one of its derivatives (Residential Code, Mechanical Code, etc.) on topics of relevancy may help. Or download and read the installation guides for any candidate appliances. You will have to do this anyway once you are getting close to countertop and cabinet design, not to mention plumbing and electrical design. You will need a kitchen designer that can support with a design tool whatever cabinet line you find preferable. Eventually, everything needs to be specified to a fraction of an inch, with cumulative errors (and non parallel walls) corrected by filler strips cut to size on site. In your spare time, decide how you will live while the kitchen is being ripped up and replaced. Rental across the street? Hotel in Pago Pago? In the house with the microwave oven temporarily in some other room? Dust blocking? I had my new induction cooktop sitting on supports on a table in my Family room with an electrical cable snaking across the floor to a nearby breaker box. In my view, once the appliance selections are firm, appliances should be acquired so that there is no issue with unavailability or with the true overall dimensions and placement of electrical/gas/whatever interfaces. These appliances will need to be stored somewhere accessible. Ditto the cabinets. "Measure twice, cut once" is optimistic, as will be most people you will have to deal with.

Wolf hoods and inserts have controls for Wolf blowers, which I believe are still made by Broan/NuTone (although there may be additional imposed manufacturing requirements). In my experience (now somewhat dated) these blowers are induction type and use simple continuously variable controls. That is what my configuration is. In general, all two-wire w/ground directly-powered ac induction motors can be controlled by such devices. Suppose, for example, you alternatively wanted to use a ModernAire hood using an in-line Fantech advanced motor that uses a 10-volt control signal. Then either ModernAire would have to provide a suitable control built in to their hood, or obtain one from Fantech and integrate it into their hood. When using a vent system made of parts from disparate companies, you or some experienced HVAC sub will have to deal with achieving compatibility. In my view, it is non-optimal to address MUA after addressing the hood system. The two have to work in concert. Yes, hood requirements have to be calculated first to filter the hood components into an acceptable group, but then other considerations in concert with the hood system requirements drive the MUA requirements. These other considerations include architecture for integrating and ducting the MUA, presence of potentially back-draft susceptible combustion appliances, and MUA complexity. In some cases the MUA will need a control system that takes information via electrical interface with the hood system, or via sensor measurement of the hood system state.

Thanks @wdccruise, I've seen these but I'm not a huge fan of how they look. I think we might just have to go with a freestanding double oven range, which is less than half the price of the slide-ins that I like. A slide-in will be more appropriate if we were to redo the entire kitchen and add a backsplash. Also, the GE Profile you linked above looks nice. I was looking at the GE Profile slide-ins and they get some bad reviews, but these reviews look pretty good. I think that one might be a good option for us.