The above statement is just wrong, fungus gnats do cause harm. If there is root damage they will eat the rotting flesh much like any maggot. I don't know how many times I've had to completely remove a plant and wash it in a bleach solution to kill the little buggers because they have gotten into a small cut in the stem of a plant or root tips. First off do not use any organic stuff like peat, second use lots of chunky stuff like pumice or perlite, and pot it in a clay pot which is just large enough to take the root ball, no bigger. Do not let it sit in water ever. Invest in wooden bbq skewers. Use one to go into the soil about three inches, if it comes back wet or with soil on it, give it a couple of days before watering again. You can also tell by the color of the clay pot, if it's darker, it doesn't need water, if it lightens up and the soil is dry, water. Top dressing will be the death of your plant especially if you don't know the ups and downs of watering yet. It should only be used if you plan on showing your plant, or you really know what you're doing water wise. I'll tell you why, top dressing is used to keep the soil from caking, but also to retain moisture in the soil. Unless you live in a really dry hot area, I would not advise it for a Dief.

@ Rose The sprayed product is not organic. If the chemical is sprayed correctly, there should be very little getting onto bushes. I can spray Roundup right next to short plants and if done carefully there is no damage to them. however, if the person spraying lifts the spray head too high or the pressure is too high the spray will drift. Also, I only spray on days where there is no wind. A wind can easily move the spray onto plants that should not be sprayed. Not sure what you mean by 'Fire Bush' but if you are talking about Euonymus alatus , then there is a good chance they will survive - these things are weeds. @ Oilpainter the statement " The only difference [between organic and inorganic] is that it [organic] does not stay in the ground like the chemical ones" is incorrect. Being organic has nothing to do with how long it takes to break down. @ Tiffy With no leaves, the roots will not be very active and are not likely to take up the Phosphate. Having enough phophaste aaround when the plant does start growing may be of some help, but then most soils have enough phosphate and you do not need to add more. If you do want to add Phosphate you would be better to use a soluable fertilizer than soap.

Hi there. This isn't exactly a topiary issue (but it could). It was probably planted there to help provide a screen for the pool area and it has probably been left untrimmed over the years. Hence the outgrown look. You could reduce the foliage and the branches without necessarily hacking it down to size. It may seem that the quickest way to control a hedge is hacking it down to a certain height, but that leaves you with an awkward appearance for a long time. Also, I would avoid transplanting mature hedges or trees because they can easily perish in the process. It also will take a hefty amount of muscles to do so. My thoughts are on using as selecteive approach to removing some branches and foliage exposing a few key trunks and leaving more foliage overhead. In a way you could trim it so it looks like one of those Japanese shaped trees. Now I don't have a photo to be able to guide you to which branches or foliage to be removed but I hope I've given you some ideas on what you could do. If you do have a photo and place it online, I could identify the plant and offer suggestions in which to trim.

"Better apply a lot, given size of tree." Well, yes and no. It doesn't take a huge volume of the appropriate mixture to do the job. Since the chemicals used for this type of job are concentrated (compared to what you would use when spraying for weeds, for example), the amount necessary is not all that great. Five ounces of around 40% glyphosate would be more than enough. If you just keeping applying it (overkill), you might cause neighboring plants to be damaged or killed. "Triclopyr is more effective for woodies than is glyphosate." Without caveats, this statement is often false. In some cases, glyphosate is more effective than triclopyr, in other cases, triclopyr is more effective than glyphosate. Either chemical can work. "The preferred application method is called cut-and-paint." This isn't a big deal, but my preferred method is cut-and-drip/squirt. I find painting the chemical on to take more time and to be messier (you have to do something with the applicator after you are finished). I used to use the "paint" method, but see no reason to go back to that. "...and why don't your tree guys have the appropriate killer and ready to apply it..." Ken brings up a good point. If they are pros, they should be able to take care of this. I would ask them before hand, though, instead of assuming.