Since my house is now painted a blue, I'm seeking true blue flowers, and it is annoying. To me if a vendor says blue, that means blue. But I can live with the lavender. And if it ain't broke (referring to my Blue Waterfall), better not try to fix it :-). Thanks for the comment that it will stay in its original clump which I can live with and even the crawling is pretty now that I know that is their habit. Same with the newer one, if it forms a nice mound, I'll be happy to have it there, whatever "blue" it turns out to be. So far I have lots of true blue alliums blooming, scattered throughout the front beds, and so happy with them unless they multiply like rabbits in which case I'll deal with it. Some iris are true blue of one shade or another. Some violas are true blue, that flax Vera plants sure looks like blue, and so on. There is an aster that is true blue, but I don't care for it. I've got lots of annual salvia that is supposed to be true blue, but I'm bracing for a disappointment on that one, Blue Crystal. The other one from another vendor, is called Blue Ribbon, but they say in the description that it is lavender. It wouldn't be that big a deal, but in trying all these, I'm going to end up with a lot of lavender and purples, some I do want that way, yes. I grow a few varieties of clematis and am afraid to order some because the photo looks blue, but they are really some shade of purple. Some do advertise as purple, and knowing that, if I want purple, I order it. Rooguchi has just a hint of purple, but is mainly blue and a real show stopper in front. The buds are true navy blue. Of course I have many other colors going, too, want the variety. Oh yes, I bought a cheapie $5+ plumbago at Wal Mart last year, have it in a 5 gal pot now, it went crazy in the sunroom over the winter so I cut it way back so the top would fill out which it is. They won't overwinter here outside even though the tag said otherwise and I could get my money back if I saved the receipt which I did. The tag also said 20 degrees. Heh. But the leaves turned yellow by late last summer so I did some frantic research. So far a little diluted miracid and periodic Osmocote have done wonders. Forgot forget-me-not, true blue and am growing two different kinds, hope the seeds for the chinese one germinate. Well, it just started raining again, and there are major floods in my state, really sad for people in affected areas because usually by now they are over. It has relieved me of a lot of watering which last year was about all I could keep up with starting in June, but caused other probs. That's enough for now.

Like I said in my previous post, I don't know why outdoors would be different. I know about WLD from previous experience, and from knowing a lot of people who grow citrus commercially and have been growing them for dozens of years. Leaf activity, eg photosynthesis, reduces the colder it gets. So if it is cold outside, roots won't function, leaves won't function...it is essentially dormant. Perhaps this is why WLD does not occur outdoors. As stated, I don't have the reasons, I just know from experience the roots do not function below 55.4F. Whether or not you choose to believe this is your choice. A link to any site would not be suitable, to prove for or against, but if you want to know more, do a google search for winter leaf drop with citrus and read peoples experiences. From there, whatever you choose to believe is entirely your prerogative. Best way to know for yourself is to experiment, Buy a citrus, sit it in a cold south facing room (below 12.5C but above 5C) and see what happens. I keep all of mine indoors from September onwards when it starts getting cold, and I have a lot of foliage growth and blooms. I have quite a bit of fruit on the go too. I have only had to deal with one scale problem, an isolated incident that was managed after one oil application.

Thanks for all that info, Kristen. I've amended planting holes here and there, but I've never kept good enough records to know if those plants did any better than the ones I planted straight into my soil with nothing more than a good watering. Heuchera seem picky about planting depth. I try not to plant too deep, but do yours hoist themselves out of the ground over the winter? I've had some do this, and thought I should plant them deeper again. So it seems hard to get right. You're keeping good sunlight records. I know the sunlight is very inconsistent in my yard because being built into a hillside, some plants only get direct sun when it's high in the sky and HOT. The rest of the year it dwindles and may only be bright light in spring and fall. I find hosta, astilbes, and tiarellas are easy to grow without too many special needs. I was hoping heucheras would fit into that mix better. Good luck with your surgery, and if it's too painful to plant your 50+ plants, you seem to be having good enough luck keeping them going in pots, so take it easy if you have to. And when you do get out there, pictures of happy heucheras and hostas are always nice. :)

I mention liquid dish detergent because it's extremely effective, non-toxic and almost everyone has it in their house. It also does not have the odor that Neem oil has which many people don't like, especially if you are moving your plants into your living spaces. To each their own, but I like remedies that are simple and easy to come up with quickly.