Melfield makes a very good point about taking recommendations (even those from our friends here) with a grain of salt. Gardening in the arid Colorado mountains is very different than gardening in the humid Chesapeake Bay area. Of course, learning how to respond properly to a certain condition of a plant is something we all do where ever we are, so advice from different area is never useless either. :) Knowing the why of a gardening "rule" is more helpful than knowing the "rule" sometimes. While watering your zukes more, keep an eye out for overwatering. If they are wilting during the day even while the soil is moist, you might be seeing heat stress, so more water may not prevent the wilting, only reduced temperature. Cheers!

coolvt, Sorry about the vague description. About 1/2 of the windows are great. Some of the windows are just a bit resistant to open and close. Some of the windows have had issues from day one. Had someone come from the place we purchased from and he blew me off saying I wasn't using enough pressure etc.. Knew he was not wanting to deal with the issue and didn't want him coming back, so we lived with it. After having several windows become inoperable called a window tech out to ck it out. He knew very little of how to operate the windows even though the window company used him as a reference to call. He ordered new springs and tension bars which we paid for, and came and installed them weeks later when they arrived. They worked for a short while and then the same issues started again. Difficulty in opening and closing. I don't mean a little, it's obvious when the window you are dealing with has issues as it opens much different than the normal ones that operate as they should. We have 3 sections to our home and they are on opposite sides of the middle section as there are only 3 windows in that section. The problem windows will go up, but the tension bar comes out (goes to the top causing us it to barely go back down and we end up not using it at all. The inards of one window came out completely and we have to prop it up if used at all. We are NOT hard on the windows as I'm sure could be surmised. We are frustrated and I've even taken the time on several occasions to fix them somewhat myself. It's a learning process, but I've been able to do it. Inevitably they do the same thing soon after. I hope this gives insight on our issues. Now the front door is a minor annoyance. It isn't level, as it opens up toward the wall when left open. I do adjust the screws so the top corner doesn't hit the frame when it expands or shrinks from the heat or cold. I'd like to replace it with a larger door, but would have to create a larger opening and not sure if that is doable. There is just enough space to allow for the larger door however. I'm thinking it wasn't installed correctly as this too has been an issue from day one. Heck our home was ready to be delivered when we noticed at the plant that there was no heater unit installed in the cabinet it fits in!! That delayed us a bit among other things. I will say we are happy with our home for the better part, there are things we should have put our foot down on and insisted upon, but we backed down when told it wasn't needed for sure. Thank you for your insight, it's very much appreciated!!!

Check the "Read Me" thread for detailed instructions on how to seal your counters...IF you need to. Not all granites, for instance, need to be sealed.

That having been said, for overseeding, you're going to have to water more often to get the seed to sprout. Seed that dries out is seed that dies. Regrettably, lawns that stay wet are lawns that get fungal diseases. You see the problem here. For seed, it will need to be watered about three times a day (even if under most coverings) to keep it appropriately damp. Underneath compost, that may be less often, but more water--depending on the compost, of course. Two would be the floor number. One is not going to be acceptable under most conditions, but there are certainly some exceptions. For how long that's required depends on the seed. In good conditions, rye usually sprouts in a week or so. Fescue, 10 days to 2 weeks. Kentucky bluegrass can be up to a month. Since you're talking about fall seeding, you've implied you have a transitional lawn and use northern grasses. Southern grasses will differ and are not generally fall sown. Of course, that can be even longer if the temperatures are particularly hot or particularly cold, and the clock also stops if the seed goes dry (this will also quickly kill germinating seed, as mentioned above). Post all that, cut back the watering slowly to let the new baby roots grow in, and let your adult lawn grow in roots it hasn't had to grow yet. Cut back to daily watering, then every other day in a week or so, every third day a week after that, and so on. See if it'll handle weekly watering the next year. Some lawns will, some won't. It does depend on your soil, the organic matter levels (OM hold water like nobody's business, it's like a sponge), and the lawn. I haven't watered since 2017 and mine looks good. Right now, we're 12 days with no rain and it's just starting to look dry in places, but my soil is tuned well for resources, the organic levels are kept very high, I keep it on the long side (short northern grasses are thirsty northern grasses), don't cut when it's dry (bleeding grass is grass that's losing water), and have bluegrass (one of the least drought-resistant grasses, actually, but it'll just go dormant if it does get droughty and come back when rains resume).