well, with the tub inside, it leaves me roughly 10x12 of GH space, which isnt as much as i'd like, so it's definitely a compromise, but if i dont have enough heat, then i can't use it in the winter anyways, so....hmph, lol. As for the condensation, dividing it is a pretty simple option, but i wonder if i will be able to get enough heat if its divided. It would be nice to have tropicals on the tub side though. I was trying to think of ways to get the heat without the steam, and divising like a 'cuff' that sits on the top, maybe 6" tall between the tub and the cover, so that a bit of heat comes off, without it being too draining on the bill (and hopefully partly offset by the fact that the tub is in an enclosed area).

radiantman, I think I may have worded my post in a strange way. We're having a problem finding a good spot on the tub itself to drill for the hot and cold knobs. That's why I though of a single-lever filler. One hole. live wire, I have seen single control fillers, but the control is separate from the spout. (Forgive me if my terminology is off.) What I need is a lever on top of the spout, not off to the side. The only one I have found is by Price Pfister and the Plumber is balking....bad quality he says. If there are others out there I have missed, please let me know. Maybe I should start a new thread...? Here is a link that might be useful: Parisa single-lever tub filler

Our pool/spa combos share equipment. We use Jandy automated systems on all our builds and reno's. I have clients that have us winterize their pool and they will extend the spa use maybe until December. Our preference is a gas fired heater. Heat pumps require lots of electric power to operate and their foot print is giant. Things to consider for winter use. Read the manufacturers warranty regarding use at certain ambient temperatures. Some say explicitly not to operate below certain temps as warranties will not cover damaged goods. We ALWAYS strongly suggest a generator in the event of a power loss during frigid temps. Equipment and piping can freeze up very quickly when temps are well below freezing. I have witnessed this and have made the expensive repairs. We use salt systems in seson but you can manually adjust chems in the spa with small amounts of liquid chlorine and other required chems after the pool is winterized. An automatic cover or a solar cover is suggested to minimize heat loss. It will cost a bundle to operate in the winter no matter what your heat source. Plus, picture yourself shoveling snow for a pathway to your pool or spa. I give this scenario to clients every time when asked about running through the winter. Some food for thought.

You will need to check with your town's or county's local code inspectors but, in my town of many old houses, the code inspectors read the codes: (a) to allow draining a washing machine into a laundry-sink with a 1½-inch drain; (b) to only bar use of an existing below-floor P-trap when the vertical distance is more than 24-inches between the bottoms of the utility-laundry sink and trap (that is do-able with some laundry sinks); and (c) to grandfather in the 1½" pipe because you are actually going to a lesser new use of 10 to 14 gallon drain-loads from the new sink as opposed to 40 to 50 gallon (or larger) from the claw-foot tub. (FYI -- The current 2"-diameter requirement for washing machine standpipes came about when some washing machine manufacturers added speedier drain pumps that pushed water faster than could be handled by a 1½" diameter standpipe. The code-recognized solution of draining to a laundry sink solves the problem by serving as a holding tank from which water will flow out only at the speed that the 1½" line can handle.) Now, you might well choose to do more than the laundry sink solution for all the reasons that ci-liantro mentioned. But if you've already taken out the tub, and need to do something pronto and the budget is tight for the time being, and you don't want to rip up your living space now with a big project, I'd check with the code inspectors and maybe run this by another contractor.