Trident Maple or Katsura tree (cercidiphyllum japonicum)
AJ Princeton NJ z6b
2 months ago
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bengz6westmd
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoRelated Discussions
Katsura tree seed germination requirements
Comments (4)Sow the small seed thinly, and barely cover, some light may be beneficial to germination. You can cover with a bit of grit or coarse sand - will help the seed to stay in contact with the moist medium while still letting some light through. Otherwise use a light layer of your same potting medium. Prepare nursery pots using a moisture retentive yet well draining potting medium.....many are good, stay away from Hyponex brand. Scatter the seed, mist with water, cover lightly with grit and mist again. I like roots of trees, shrubs, to have room immediately to grow down - I sow in pots with 5" depth. If you are very attentive and not likely to forget to check, you can cover tops with saran wrap - removing it immediately at the first seed germinating so circulation of air is increased....See MoreCercidiphyllum japonicum drought/watering requirements
Comments (7)I've got 2 2nd year C. japonicum seedlings in my "nursery" (pot ghetto for young plants), started them from seed last year. They are already 2 feet tall and growing like gangbusters, even in small pots. I will need to pot them up a size larger soon. These seedlings do not appear to be much affected by having a dry pot because they've dried out more so than the other seedlings with no apparent ill effects (mostly winter-sown perennials). They also appear to be quite hardy, which I wondered about because the seed was from a tree at the Arnold Arboretum, which is a zone 6b/7a and probably one zone warmer than where I am. They were in pots outside all winter (with a mulch of leaves as protection) and came through unscathed, whereas I lost 6 or so other plants in the nursery, including some that had survived previous winters fine. This past winter seemed to be pretty harsh on borderline woody plants. So based on the performance of the seedlings my guess, FWIW, would be that this species is somewhat drought-tolerant, and hardy and fast growing. Here's a pic I just happened to take yesterday, 2 Katsura next to 2nd year Corylus americana and Cornus alternifolia seedlings:...See MoreLooking for Katsura Cercidiphyllum japonicum
Comments (5)Try asking in the northern garden forum for referrals. You will need to search for a nursery closer to your location the reason is you need to ensure the plants you get is hardy to your area. Sometimes trees are grafted onto hardier stocks which makes it seem as if they've gotten hardier in that zone. Or it may be that the climate is warmiing up and more plants are able to survive in zones lower. For example, I was surprised by the proliferation of japanese maple trees in my zone which is a zone 5 or a US zone 4. I later discovered that many were grafted. Same thing with David Austen Roses....See MoreFollow a Chopped Trident Maple's Progress
Comments (36)About the upper part of the tree, my girlfriend said she wanted to try cuttings and I told her it would be very very unlikely it would work but she insisted and we took it home... For the lower remaining part, I just hope that young branch won't die from freezing. I won't repeat last year's mistake and repot now in the fall. It killed my good brand new Katsura that I loved and another red JM that I was trying to save from poor conditions at the store. Both of them died. I will be careful about watering only when the medium is dry on both the JM and the TM. Now they are getting about 2 hours of full sun (from 4pm to 6pm)due to the orientation of my balcony and I hope that little bit of light will help them store a bit more energy to not die in the winter and restart in the Spring. Maybe that new red branch will mature more too before losing its leaves and going dormant so I can use it as the leader next Spring. I am still trying to figure out what kind of soil is in the (soft wall bags with handles) pots and wether or not it is too moisture retentive and not aerated enough. I dug a bit at the top and it seems fluffy and not pot-bound but I don't know how to figure this out. I'd like to make sure I do anything I can to make sure these two new guys do well. For context, both trees were in a nursery in the open, in rows of trees all in soft bag pots, with lines of garden hoses with holes I assume to irrigate each tree. The JM seemed like it was not happy because the entire top was fried and it had at least 4 feet of bare trunk before the top bifurcation and branches that you can see in the picture that I posted of the top cut and in the vase of water. The TM seemed to be thriving although it's numerous branches are quite short. Somehow I am not worried about that one. I would like to gleem any insights on what to do, if anything, as far as watering, fertilizing and other things. I cut the trunk of the JM in the middle between two nodes, 5 nodes above the new red branch at the base. Did not treat the wound at all. Pictures coming....See Morebengz6westmd
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agosah67 (zone 5b - NY)
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 months agobengz6westmd
2 months agoartinnature
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)