I pulled this offline. I would leave it alone and advise DO NOT water it, its been watered more than plenty for a newly planted yucca, let the soil dry completely before watering again. I would even consider moving the rocks around it for a while in order to dry out the soil since you have had a lot of rain. The rocks will help in winter when you really want the crown to stay dry and clear of leaf debris or anything that stays wet. If rain continues, if it was me, I'd move it under cover until the weather settles to prevent rot and allow it to dry out. From what you wrote, it sounds like the plant has plenty of roots already so its not a cutting that needs more time to develop them. The roots are geared and prepared for storage-- the plant stores moisture as a coping mechanism against periods draught which occur in its habitat. Being dry for a period wont hurt it, constant wet will. If dry, the leaves would appear shriveled, dehydrated and stiff, not drooping and it would take some time for the plant to finally succumb to dying due to too dry. This particular type is more tolerant of moisture as it would need to be in shade with supplemental irrigation in a place like west Texas.

Lynn, As I understand it you have two main questions. What should you do now with the transplanted citrus to improve their chances of survival and how/when should you transplant the remaining citrus to improve their chances of survival? I would check the small branches on the repotted citrus for life by cutting off a few tips. If the centers still show green your tree has a good chance of survival. If the centers are not green, continue to trim until you see green. If you see no green, the trees are dead. If your trees are alive, do not over water. The roots have probably been damaged to some extent as others have said. Spray the tops with water frequently, but only the tops, or tent them in vented plastic to increase humidity, again as someone else has said. If they are still alive they will probably resprout. As to the second question: others have well addressed soil composition. Another issue is roots drying out. Oklahoma can be very dry and you took about 20 minutes to repot. I think that this is likely to have caused the problem. Repotting in Spring would probably have the advantage of more humid conditions, personally that would not deter me from Fall planting, but I would take extra care, either using water to get soil out of the roots (as described above), or spritzing with a water bottle frequently and covering exposed sections of root that you are not actively working on with plastic. I hope your plants "bounce back". Cath

Yucca Color Guard is a cultivar of Yucca filamentosa, a native plant. It may or may not have a tap root, drought tolerance does not require a tap root. The link below has some tips, it is borderline hardy in your zone so it may die back. You should plant it soon, because it will not survive the winter in a pot. Here is a link that might be useful: Yucca

Jannym, I would like some seeds too please. I found this site asking how long seeds would take to germinate. The closes answer seems to be not long. I had never seen a yucca seed pod until a few days ago. I probably never looked. I was in rural North Carolina and picked 3 pods off a 10 to 11 foot yucca with nasty points. It was the second I had seen in the area with long trunks from being very old I assumed. All the other yuccas I have seen on the East Coast have been based at ground level without trunks. I have had some great salads with the petals. I have extra seeds, if you are interested. I would be glad to share and receive more variety's. I will split the pods and dry them in a paper bag on the garage wall until April, then plant some. tbakewright@aol.com