Corner wood stove wall surround
darrelntrish
2 months ago
last modified: 2 months ago
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Comments (3)Thanks for the info. As usual, hubby beat me before my questions were answered. He bought Lone Star stone (a cement that looks like field stone but only 1/2" thick) and all the stuff necessary to do the walls. We are now going to do a cement floor because the 2x4s don't even hold a side-by-side frige without sagging let alone a cast iron coal stove (when are they going to realize the wood joists nowadays are junk?), rip out pine wainscoting and drywall, and do the stone halfway up with reinforced wire, while at the same time make provisions for the heat to go through the floors, etc. That is the main problem living here. . . very cold floors. We are going to do slate for the hearth area. I thank you for your answer. I would welcome any further suggestions. This stove is even thicker cast iron than we imagined and should last us forever. Hubby is very, very happy with it so far (haven't used it yet as we just picked it up today) but feels it will be the best stove we have ever had. The thickness is even greater than a Fisher wood stove and thicker than his Kenmore "kitchen" stove in the garage....and both run us out of the area because of the heat. LOL...See MorePlease show me pictures of your wood stove, hearth & surround
Comments (3)Shoot, I didn't think you even had to heat in zone 8! I'm a chilly zone 4 (northern NY) and our only sources of heat are a woodstove and a pellet stove, so I have a little (LOL) experience with stoves. Before you get to decoration, though, you have to consider protection of combustible surfaces. You woodstove's manual will give you the minumum clearances between the back of the stove and the nearest adjacent walls. It's particularly important in the case of corner installations since the heat can get trapped in the angle. Please don't fudge these requirements. Some people think that if they apply a non-combustible surfacing to the wall then these distances don't matter. That's wrong, they still do because the noncombustible material will just transfer the heat to the (now) hidden combustible material behind. And then you've got Trouble. There are ways to reduce these distances (in some cases, see your manual for details) be using shield plates behind (and sometimes below) the stove and all the way up the back of the stovepipe to the thimble. To further reduce the distance, with some stoves, you can apply additional protection to the combustible surface by mounting a sheild about 1" off the wall, open on the top and bottom. We use a piece of cement board held off the wall with porcelain electric fence insulators centered on long screws. If you do a good job of countersinking the screws you can easily tile over the cement board, though this makes it impossible to remove it without destroying it. You can also paint it. Underneath the stove, you need to protect any combustible flooring and most wood stoves have a minimum size pad of non-cumbustible material to catch sparks and other debris. The simplest floor is a just a big, flat, rock slab like bluestone, granite, slate, or soapstone. My woodstove "hearth", really just a pad is made of (from the top surface): common bricks on edge over insulation board, laid over a bed of play sand contained in heavy plastic, then the wood floor. All surrounded by a an ogee-shaped moulding. The reason for the sand is that the hearth crosses the sill where two different buildings adjoin and the finish floor slopes more than two inches. Such are the joys of living in a very old house: floors you could ski down. If you're thinking of a wooden mantle, you may need a curved heat shield underneath it to protect the bottom surface - depends on how high it is off the top of the stove. That's why I prefer stone or rock mantles - they can't scorth! HTH, Molly~...See Morereplacing brick stove surround with stone?
Comments (16)You said you'd "like to use some type of stone veneer product." While stone veneer, can be made of real stone, sawn to uniform thickness, it is often a man-made product: What is stone veneer? If you look at Beverley's first photo above of applied stone veneer, you have something that from the front mimics the bulk of real stone, but then when you see how little it stands off from the wall, it's obvious that it's uniformly thin and looks fake to me (whether it's manufactured stone or real stone). Sometimes this material looks better when it is on a three dimensional surface, like the corner of a house. But when it's applied to flat, two-dimensional, interior walls, like your short corner walls, it's not aesthetically pleasing. If you had it applied to an entire wall so that you couldn't see the edges, then it would be more convincing. Personally, I don't like 1/4" thick plywood paneling that mimics expensive wood, formica that looks like denim, brick veneer that isn't solid brick, vinyl siding that has fake grain, and ceramic flooring that has a wood look. I want my home to have real, natural materials as much as possible. That's just my prejudice. And now that I've explained why I think the real brick you have looks better than what you want to spend money to replace it with, I'll shut up. It's your house, so, If you like stone veneer, it's not my business....See MoreWood stove insert surround
Comments (2)Call a fireplace company to look at it. I'm sure there was a reason the surround is that size. They could also guide you on the insulation. Paint the brick the same color of the surround. Painting the surround black will just draw more attention to it....See MoreBeth H. :
2 months agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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2 months agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
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