Don't know how you plan on opening and closing the chicken door, but I wouldn't want to walk into the coop all the time to do it. I have a sliding door right inside the full size door and can simply reach in and slide it open or closed. My coop is about the same size but I've segregated a 2 1/2' by 9' area to store their feed, a bale of hay and a 5 gallon bucket of DE. I have windows on three sides that open and close and a vent the entire width of the coop on one end that always stays open. The vent is about 4" high and is covered with 1/2" hardware cloth. Ditto on the roosts. You need one running the entire length of the back wall at least.

Jon1270 - This is awesome! Thank you so much. This is closer to what we had expected. First, the position of the cans at the counter edge, then the placement at the peninsula. I felt the cans should surround the sink, your suggestion does just that. We already have undercounter lighting at the places you recommend, in addition to the upper displays - the one forgotten one was the light in the niche over the range. We had an electrical run for it, but forgot to order a light for it so will do that as well. And yes, we were very uncertain about placing a can above the range. We have quite the powerful lighting in our range hood already plus an ambient light bar there as well. It seemed to be overkill, plus the range hood sticks out as far as the range. We're considering a hanging light over the island that is about 28x28 - do you think this is too large/small and regardless still in need of cans flanking either side of the light? Also, do you think having no cans between the island and the peninsula will leave 'dark holes'? It is about 8ft from the center measure of the island to the center of the peninsula. I think the lighting specialist we visited with (who actually visited us) was trying to keep the lights symmetrically in line. And while we are symmetrical with lots of what we do, the suggestions just didn't feel right for us. Yours do. Thank you again.

planting high in bad clay is a great idea ... refer to link below .. is birch borer in your area.. a quick call to your extension office might get a fast answer ... if so ... then you ought to look toward a borer resistant type.. like whitepsire ... https://www.google.com/search?q=whitespire+birch&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwji4uqKxa3NAhWHx4MKHXyQAXsQ_AUICSgC&biw=940&bih=745&dpr=0.9 how big a tree you thinking of planting ... the hot part of summer is usually not a great time for DIY ... unless you have a lot of experience.. and are willing to take the risk ... which gives you a lot of time to shop out a nice specimen at a nearby tree farm, for fall planting ...tag a nice one now... i would not go over 4-6 feet... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub

Draw in a to scale dining room table with chairs. I think that will make you want to move the patio door as you are asking about so you can more easily get out the doors and people can be at the table and with the doors still accessible. While I love the idea of hidden entry to your pantry, same comment as above. It seems a table and chairs will block entry. You can still make a "hidden door" from the hallway. I imagine pantry goods being accessed at all times for snacks or when having people over. So you do not want the person sitting at the table to have to move to access the pantry. Maybe my sense of scale is off and there is enough space. Try drawing in your table with the chairs to get a more clear sense of whether the table and chairs are in the way or not. :)