Yeah, it's been months, but I thought I add my experience. I am using 15 year landscape fabric that was installed 2 years ago. I too noticed that the water beaded up on it and mostly rolled off, depending on the slope. I figured that I had a lot of work to do and no one complained too badly about the stuff so continued with the installation. Over the fabric I put a few inches of rock, which is lots of work but I have hardly needed to revisit the beds at all. My perennial plants are all receiving sufficient water (they're growing and alive), there are no lakes forming, and everything is as expected. I admit that I was concerned initially about all the work that it took to prepare and complete the beds and that they might not receive any water... Though, not to worry friend, it'll be fine. Lay the stuff down, cut the X where the plant will poke through, and enjoy the minimal effort to maintain your beds. In the fall I do walk through with a vacuum/blower to remove as much organic material as I can. Takes only minutes and I'm sure it'll help keep the beds looking pristine. Enjoy!

The perm rating for exterior-grade plywood is what it is despite any physical defects typical in the material. While it has a low perm rating, it's a poor candidate to install under sheetrock as a vapor barrier. In my market, 1/2" CDX plywood costs roughly $.55/SF compared with 6 mil polyethylene sheeting which costs $.05/SF .... @Charles Ross, looking back at the picture I posted the plywood has a perm rating of .70 and the polyethylene sheeting has .06 --- the picture states anything with a rating less than 1 qualifies as a 'vapor barrier'. So the question of which is better I'm not really arguing, just expanding the conversation to show that there are different materials to use as a vapor barrier as well as the location of which to install it (climate concerns). With that said, what is better in terms of the rating regardless of cost or installation problems or concerns? Here in the south they not only put up plywood but then also wrap the house, usually in Tyvek. But the home I live in was built in the late 70's has either asphalt coated paper or some sort of aluminum coated paper. Another important difference is in my area the product is installed on the exterior of the house. I think a wrap would be a harder install on interior walls. I think if it were me I would choose the 'Vapor barrier paint or primer' for homes in the north where vapor barrier should be installed internally. The rating of the 'vapor barrier paint or primer' according to the picture I posted a few clicks above was rated at 0.45 which is almost half of plywood... but much higher than polyethylene at .06. Due to the ease in which the 'vapor barrier paint or primer' can be applied, the higher rating and no interference that the ply wood make due to the thickness of it, 'cracks and crevice' problem I mentioned... But the question is as someone who doesn't do this sort of thing... what is the difference of the rating between these different materials.... short of costs, installation methods or problems with such. Is a rating closer to 1 better than a rating closer to 0? That primarily is the point to everything I posted, it wasn't a venture off into the weeds. (What's the best in terms of the rating?)

Why did you ask for help just to ignore sound advice? What you have, even so far, won't be good in the long run. You will almost certainly have moisture problems between the bed and the wall. Besides mold problems, you are also looking at a bed frame that will rot. Hugelkultur and branches all rot and then occupy less space and aid your frame in rotting.. Without enough space/air flow under the bed, the frame will rot there too. I would advise you to remove what you have done. Line the bed with waterproof membrane and put a few drainage holes only on the bottom at the front. You really only need landscape cloth to stop your soil from leaking out of the drainage holes. If you want to use up space, the best thing to use would be rocks, stones, chunks of brick or chunks of concrete with landscape cloth over top (so your soil doesn't sink into the spaces). This will allow better drainage.

Are you talking about the foundation or a bathroom? In either scenario, you're going to have to put off the inspection until you can hire a new contractor to finish the job correctly. You might want to seek the advice of a lawyer who can determine whether you can sue the first contractor to reimburse you for the work not completed in accordance with your contract.