If your current soffit lighting is great, I don't see any reason to change to pendants, as I doubt the light quality would change and the look won't be that striking because of the short drop. To improve the quality of lighting at a mirror you would be better off with side-lighting. Overhead light is supposed to be less flattering and casts shadows that make it harder to apply makeup, etc.

OP, Before you replace just the sink, consider the cost of replacing the entire unit. I have a very similar vanity/ top / sink that came from Lowe's and was not terribly expensive ($350). The one that you have isn't in bad shape, but if you wanted to change styles, or if it was otherwise damaged this would be an opportunity to swap it out. BTW: The bowl is probably sealed to the granite with silicone sealant - you will have to cut it from the top after removing the bolts. You don't use plumbers putty on granite. Also, the top is pretty much permanently attached to the base. I was going to take the top off mine when I brought it home to make the installation easier and lighter... I think it was epoxied on to the sink base. I do agree, however, that the sink is probably fine. If the crack gets bigger or leaks, deal with it then. Here is a link that might be useful: Sink and base This post was edited by jakethewonderdog on Wed, Sep 3, 14 at 9:02

Tung Oil has this mystique around it. There are many finishes that capitalize on this by calling themselves "Tung Oil Finish" that are oil-varnish blends and typically the oil is linseed oil and nary a drop of tung oil can be found. If it is 100% tung oil, you do have the real stuff. Truth is, it provides minimal protection, you must let thoroughly dry (at least a couple of days) between coats or you get white spots that you need to strip to get rid of, is relatively expensive (except you already have this), and really looks no different than the easier to use, cheaper, and more readily available boiled linseed oil. Whatever you decide, I strongly suggest that you try your finish out on some scrap and make sure it works to your satisfaction. Here are directions, courtesy of Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishes" (2nd ed.) P.77 "Tung Oil can me made fairly water resistant after five or six coats. But it it too soft and thin to resist scratching or water vapor exchange, and it is a difficult finish to make look nice. The first three or four coats appear flat and blotchy on the wood and feel rough to the touch. Only after five or six coats, sanding between each coat, can you get an even satin sheen. But the finish is still not as smooth to the touch as linseed oil. In addition, tung oil cures very slowly -- considerably faster than raw linseed oil but still slower than boiled linseed oil -- so you need to wait several days between coats. This makes tung oil an inefficient finish to use."

They should have left the drywall and cut it to fit after. Since they didn’t, remove the cabinets and shim the opening as needed and patch with drywall mud. I like making multiple thin coats versus one thick coat and a ton of sanding.