Something bad happened that actually was a very, very good thing... After following breiaj's instructions to the letter, two of the floor tiles in the bathroom popped up a couple of days later and wouldn't stay stuck. When I pulled them up the rest of the way, I found a leak! If it hadn't been for those tiles unsticking, we wouldn't have found that leak until it did a LOT more damage - like made a big ole mess of the kitchen ceiling. So here's one way in which vinyl tile might actually be BETTER than sheet! A few notes WRT breiaj's instructions... I admit to dropping back to $3.99 paintbrushes because they became unworkable so quickly - the glue would start to dry up in the bristles while we were working and it would become more like a paddle than a brush! We didn't have any problems with bristle loss. 2" flat-ended paintbrushes were just the right size, a wider brush seemed like it would save time but was really more awkward to work with, especially with cut pieces. Don't bother wearing rubber gloves in hopes of keeping your hands clean, they stick to the tile's adhesive and to the adhesive you're spreading on and just generally irritate the crap out of you. :-) The adhesive - Armstrong's anyway - is kind of hard on your hands though, and contrary to the label does not wash off with soap and water! We ended up using a "painter's wipes" product we had on hand to clean up our hands about every hour because we would get too sticky to work effectively, and our fingertips were pretty raw and sore afterward. Even though it costs a bit more it's a lot easier to work with the smaller containers of adhesive using this brush-on method, because the bucket gunks up something awful. If you're laying more than about 100 square feet, seriously consider coughing up for the vinyl tile cutter (homedepot.com has one for about $50, or you can rent a superduper heavy-duty one for about the same for a weekend)... scoring and snapping with a utility knife sucks after a while, it's slow and hard on your hands. Make sure you have a comfortable utility knife no matter what though, and a LOT of blades. Stanley makes a really nice knife in their FatMax line, with a rubber-cushioned handle. A jamb or undercut saw ($15) makes dealing with those door jambs SO much easier than trying to cut the tile around them! We removed the baseboards; we were going to replace them with vinyl cove but the damn stuff just would not cooperate so we patched the baseboards with wood filler galore and put them back, and it looked SO much neater than butting the tiles up to the baseboards. deeje, I've checked around with several manufacturers of vinyl tile and the biggest deal WRT moisture is not to slop around too much water when you mop - contrary to popular belief, you don't need a gallon bucket full of near-boiling water and some vile chemical to get a floor clean! Try a well-squeezed-out sponge or terrycloth/microfiber mop instead of a sopping string or rag mop instead. Those microfiber cleaning cloths fit on Swiffer handles really well, if like me you are too cheap to buy the Swiffer cloths. :-) ctaylors6, the instructions in the Cryntel box agree with the Lowes guy - wash well-secured vinyl very well, rinse well, allow to dry thoroughly. I'd use something like TSP that would destroy any gloss on the existing floor. Our vinyl was trashed so we couldn't leave it, so I can't speak to the adhesive method on top of vinyl. We still haven't gotten the kitchen floor laid down yet. We had to tear out some of the subfloor and replace it, and then do a lot of leveling and sanding on the rest, got diverted with a day of electrical work, and to top it all off DH has been sick as a dog. :-( Cross your fingers for this weekend!

You've definitely got a point about the overall cost. $100.00 or so per fixture is a lot- no matter what. So that's just a matter of budget. 3 grand is 3 grand. I don't necessarily agree on other issues for waiting. I have the LR6 mounted right next to a 50 watt (Ushio) MR16 recessed light to show customers. The MR16 still of course is crisper and whiter, but the LR6 is darn close. By far it's superior to incandescent and fluorescent. I don't know what electricity pricing is in FL, but just in the amount of energy people save here in CA with the LR6, they cover the costs of the bulb. Again though, they have to plunk down a lot of money to start with. In general, I agree with the lighting designer. LEDs aren't ready for prime time (main task/ general lighting), except for the LR6. It is wonderfully engineered. It can actually sense when the color it is emitting goes out of whack. It'll then automatically adjust the LEDs internally to get back to the CRI you started with. Cree doesn't use white LEDs within the bulb. They use a combination of yellows and other colors. They then have the frosted shade in front to give the final touch. White LEDs still aren't right. But overall, waiting never really hurts. No matter what comes out, it'll be made for a standard 5" or 6" can. And the price most probably will drop in a year or so.

I would go with 6" cans for the following reasons 1. 4" cans have less space for heat dissipation. 2. 6" cans are more common and you have more lighting options. 3. The light coverage is better for 6". Since you're subject to title 24, you'll have to install CFL cans with integrated ballasts or LED cans with GU 24 base / anything other than edison base. I ended up with LED cans as I figured that 1. Cans with integrated ballasts would become problematic when the ballast fails as someone would have to gain access to the upper part of the can to change the ballast. 2. I was drawn to the CREE LR6 @ LampsPlus as there wasn't any glare like the other CFL cans beside it. 3. The cost of a CFL can + trim + CFL bulb was higher than a CREE LR6 + can ~ 1+ year ago. Today the costs are more favorable for a CR6 (GU24) + can ~ $80. 4. The LED cans are dimmable using standard incandescent dimmers. UCL is very useful.

Can you post a photo of the trim? Some trims are really standard- they can be replaced for $10-$18 at home depot plus $5-8 for a good bulb. Sometimes they are not standard but can be fixed with a can of white spray paint. Then other cans have trims that are integrated and can't be removed at all... Generally working with what you have will be cheapest as it doesn't require an electrician to replace the housing in the ceiling. To me LED bulbs have a better light output than the LED retrofit kits, others will disagree. Make sure to watch the color temperature (I like 2700K) and you will need to replace the dimmers as well.