Thanks for your reply hollysprings. Not that it's critically important now but had I been informed of the additional tile work that was needed I would have planned accordingly and maybe not had the panel installed. Additionally, when the plumber came out to the house after I had sent him pictures of what the job required, he informed me that he had done many shower panel installs and it was a fairly simple process. I informed him that if it was an issue, I could continue to live with the current shower setup and was not married to the Pulse shower panel and could return it to Lowes. He said it would be fine, assuring me multiple times. Since I have never had this kind of work done before I was under the impression they would seal any openings. This was my mistake for not asking more questions when he came out and waiting for after the install was done. Given the circumstances, you are correct in that he did do his job as best he could...I just wished he would have communicated the tile work portion. In other words, told me that there was additional work that was required to get it right for me as the homeowner. Regardless, whats done is done and I am currently waiting to hear back from a few tile contractors to seal the openings. My concern is resolving the issue instead of blaming the product choice, plumber or architect b/c again, this doesn't solve the problem at hand. Furthermore, I contacted the shower panel manufacturer and they told me that there should be stub-outs that protrude out of the tile by an inch or so just in case there are future leaks. After I have the tile guys come out and take a look to see if they can do the job, I will have a plumber come out and install the required stub outs (per the instruction manual I gave the plumber who installed the panel) and then tile around it. I believe the Flex supply lines are part of the shower panel and per manufacturer should never be inside the wall but instead outside connected to stub outs.

The installation instructions will often have lists: what is included, tools needed, and materials needed. The materials needed will be the things you need to buy, if you do not have them. Often, the installation instructions are available on the internet.

We are installing a 36 x 60 cast iron shower receptor and frameless bypass sliding doors. The glass company said they drill into cast iron all the time and it's not a problem. As a preventive measure, I will ask them to add silicone to the underside of the sill mounted center guide to seal out water and prevent rust. Thank you to everyone who commented on this thread - your input has been helpful and informative.

I found the installation manual online. It's not 100% clear, but it does say "install corner joints for aesthetic look when the wall is out of plumb less than 3/8" (10 mm), or the panels are cut unevenly." Elsewhere, "If corner joints will be installed." So it looks like they may be optional. Having said that, if you now have gaps between the panels, I think that the corner joints should have been used. Note that the instructions also say that "Water resistant wallboard backing material is recommended." I hope that was done for your installation. I'm concerned about your window and shelf installation too, but without pictures, it's impossible to say whether it will cause problems. Overall, I'm not too impressed with your contractor. If you have a lawyer, you may want to discuss this situation, and the contractors lack of communication, with him or her. I also think that the price I see online for this shower is pretty darn steep for a few sheets of plastic, but what do I know?