It's not oedema and it's not from over or under-watering - likely insect-related. It's not unusual for insects to attack one plant in a grouping or even a single branch on a plant. The plant's natural defenses are related to it's metabolism and energy levels which are often variable from plant to plant and even locality on the same plant. IOW - if one plant or plant part is weaker (or more succulent) than another plant or other parts on the same plant, the likelihood of insect attack is increased. If you do treat the plant, topical insecticides are only marginally effective with little residual effectiveness. Systemics are broader spectrum with a much longer period of effectiveness. I've had excellent results with Bayer's 3-in-1 preparation that contains the systemic insecticide Imidacloprid, the systemic fungicide Tebuconazole, and a miticide, so it pretty much covers all the bases. Don't confuse it with their product that also includes fertilizer. All the chemicals in the 3-in-1 preparation are approved for use on houseplants, but all spraying should be done outdoors. The plant can be moved back indoors as soon as the spray is dry. What does your plant look like (a full shot of it?). It may be a candidate for a full defoliation a few days after you spray, which will stimulate back-budding (more branches & fullness) and offers the added advantage of having all the newly emerging foliage in pristine condition. Al

Hello, I work with Julie Newmar on her garden, and she requested I tell you of our experience with Julie Newmar roses, and other roses. I think what you may have is downy mildew. On roses, leaves develop angular dark purple to black areas and may turn yellow and drop. This has been particularly unusual weather year -- rain in mid May, and still more to come? Downy mildew usually appears when it is cool and wet, especially if mid-day is warm or hot. I usually pull off the leaves which are affected, pruning a badly infected bush back. So far all of the roses have recovered well with this treatment. We have three Julie Newmar roses in the garden of nearly 100 roses. This year we have not had any real problems with downy mildew, but it just might be luck or the sunny position, or both. Like others have suggested here, if you turn the leaf over you be able to tell easily if you have rust postules on the underside. You also may be able to see some of the developing mildew "down". The third major disease we sometimes find is powdery mildew, again prevalent with cool nights and warm days. One additional problem sometimes is too much kindness for a new plant. If the soil is slower draining, overwatering can cause the buds and leaves to droop. Important to keep new roses moist but not too wet. Armstrongs is a good outfit, so if there is a problem I am sure they will make it right. All the best, Brad Bontems

Hi AhleahaSage! I put your question on the main forum because I felt it would reach more people that might know. Not everyone checks out the gallery every day. People might answer on either forum so check them both. Hope you get your answer soon :-) Here is a link that might be useful: Your question on the main forum ....

If purple is not a natural coloration for the plant, then look to it being "burned" in some way - cold, heat, chemicals... FataMorgana