Hollysprings, I was afraid photos would be the request. I've never learned how to post photos here so will work on learning how to get those posted. You're absolutely right, though. The relationship between the illuminated cabinet and the vent hood are extremely important since they are in such close proximity in this small space.

If your hood is on an outside wall, your not going to want to protrude through the roof too close to an overhang, especially if you are in cold country with ice dam concerns.You would have to elbow up to a higher location.In our area,a fire stop is required where the ducting enters the cieling/attic with any framing required to be 2" away from the duct.A fire stop is a sheet metal jack that accepts the ducting in the center.The fire stop is attached in your attic to cieling joists or blocking or both.The fire stop isn't so much for heat,as hoods aren't high heat,but are required to slow fire through penetrations.Your roof sheathing should be cut 2" larger than the ducting as well. The roof jack will easily cover that. A t-top roof jack is simply a jack that has a horizontal "hood" that keeps water out of the jack/ducting. You are going to want to study how other vents on your roof were flashed as well concerning your roofing, as an improper flashed jack is a guaranteed leak.If you use foil tape on the seams of your ducting,(my choice), make sure it is rated for heat.Good luck on your project! You might want to check in with your local yocals for venting requirements in your area. That's what they are there for and is a safer bet.

I think it is a valid statement that a chimney hood is closer to ideal for capture and containment than most microwave oven venting schemes. If you search for KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf, a publication by Greenheck, and read it or even skim it, you will learn what is considered important for ventilating commercial cooking. From this base it is possible to "eyeball" residential devices and estimate how far they deviate from ideal and hence surmise whether or not they are the best solution for the space. It is important to keep in mind that you can have only two out of three among performance, affordability, and aesthetics. With respect to the association of "equal blower capacity" and the fact that two blowers are rated at equal CFM, I have to point out that neither blower will be operating in free air, so each has some pressure drop across it. For the blowers to be equal, their fan curves (flow vs. pressure drop) have to be equal. This is unlikely. Further, the microwave may be expected to have a more tortuous path for the air flow, causing it be operate farther to the left (lower flow rate, higher pressure drop) on its fan curve. This would be expected to further reduce its flow rate over that of the more conventional hood. Your candidate 30 x 22-inch hood is (ignoring wall thicknesses that I don't know) 4.6 square feet in nominal aperture area. The actual desired flow would be 4.6 x 90 ~ 400 CFM. With a leaky house but no deliberate MUA you would want a blower rated for at least 600 CFM. We can cut that down somewhat by arguing that induction has a lower plume velocity, and the type of cooking is less extravagant. From page 9 of the Greenheck document take the velocity requirement to be 50 ft/min instead of 90, and this yields 230 CFM actual. A 400 CFM rated blower with leakage MUA may work for this. However, 22 inches is not much frontal overlap, nor is a 30-inch wide hood much overlap for pans that may extend to the edges of a 30-inch induction cooktop. So, while what has been captured may be fully contained, unless your greasy cooking is done at the back, and a cabinet side partly blocks the cooking plume expansion toward the side of the hood, some odor and grease may be expected to still be present in the room. For a higher level of capture, a 36 x 27 inch hood would be preferred. This would, however, require deliberate MUA, depending on how your code requirement is worded, what combustion appliances you have and their sources of MUA, and whether your AHJ understands what safety issues MUA is intended to avoid. kas

I was thinking along similar lines as Buehl's galley lay-out or swapping kitchen with DR. Another option is to go with the sink next to but not in the corner, like this: The sink size stay about the same but this configuration gives you a 24" drawer base, which is always a better storage option over 2 15" base cabinets. Buying one cabinet, even though a little larger, should save you some money, too. Or you can apply that savings to upgrading to a drawer base. I calculate your kitchen at 148 1/2" top to bottom. If you decide to add an island, stick with a shallow one, no more than 18" deep. That will give you 39 1/2" aisles between it and the sink run and between it and the fridge run. Keep in mind that the aisle will shrink from 39 1/2" to 36 1/2" between island and fridge door (not handles) assuming you're purchasing a counter depth fridge. The downside of an island in your kitchen is that it will be somewhat of a barrier island (between fridge and sink) but that compromise might be worth it for the additional storage and counter space a longish, narrow island would offer. It would be similar to these: If you buy a standard depth fridge, you absolutely don't have room for an island; your aisle will shrink by several more inches, creating a serious pinch point in your kitchen, even without the fridge door being open. These images illustrating NKBA's recommended minimums of aisles may be helpful: NKBA - National Kitchen and Bath Association.