To all reading this post: First of all, the quoted post should be attributed to Brickeyee. My sincerest apologies for my error. Here's a copy-and-paste version with the relevant section. Posted by brickeyee (My Page) on Thu, Jan 31, 08 at 19:46 .... The track should also NEVER be attached to a header in a weight bearing wall. A secondary header should be installed with about a 1/2 inch clearance below the structural header. If the header bows (and they all do to some extent) it can cause problems with the track. If the wall is NOT weight bearing the header will not be loaded and you CAN omit the second header. Decker, You asked what I meant by a secondary header. The real answer is I don't know; I'm just parrotting what I've read. But the term was used when describing 2x4(?)as something to which the pocket door track would be attached. BTW, this door installation is not a DIY project. I'm just trying to second-guess potential problems in construction. Again, I apologize if I've opened a can of worms.

Is there anything else wrong with the door? Rollers can be fixed/serviced quite easily in many cases. As to your question about a 4' French door, I would be cautious about that. French doors are notoriously sensitive to operation and size. A 4' door, hanging out in space, hinged, and heavy (i.e. full glass) is a recipe for operational difficulty in my opinion. There are plenty of sliders that can be opened with a single finger's effort. I think you need to see one of those type doors and feel the operation on it to make and apt comparison and then decision.

I agree with Fori, you are talking to the wrong sales people. For years early in my career, seems almost all I did was change out sliders to french doors. For your opening size and situation, you could use several combinations of door and sidelight combos. For example, a pair of 32" swinging french, with a 32" fixed sidelight. If your rough opening won't accept that, perhaps a 30" sidelight and/or 30" doors.

Thanks for the suggestions. We are really not looking to block the room off. This is our dinning and living area. The blankets we have work well at blocking some of the cold. We are able to keep the room around 70 degrees with the fireplace. Really, I’m looking for suggestions on what material I could use as a temporary wall inside the sliding glass door frames that might be light weight (if possible) and inexpensive. I was thinking the thin insulation boards but they are flimsy; unless someone has a suggestion on how I can make an easy support for it.