The only place yet unseen is at the corner of yard from where original panorama was taken. If you took a photo from near the post (which is near drain,) I think that would cover it. A couple of thoughts, so far, is that some of the wood retaining walls look like they might be much higher than what is being retained. I'd consider removing a few inches off the top, if possible. And, I'd consider some plants at the top of the retained areas that "heap" and "weep" over the wall, covering some (or much) of it's upper portion. (The wood adds to the barren, hard surface. It would be easy to cover with plants that trail.) Likewise, the wood of the fence adds a barren quality. You are punctuating it with art, but it needs some foliage, too. It could come from hanging planters bearing trailing plants. Or you could create a small opening in the pavers (at strategic positions) from which a vine -- annuals or perennials -- could grow. If it's a permanent woody vine, think through carefully where it will grow and how it will be supported. If annuals, just some twine, wherever, that plants could grow on, ought to do it. Some moonflower vines with their awesome scent (and evening & nighttime show) might help the smoke condition.

Most patios are set on a concrete slab or a sand and pebble base. Since patios are built at or around ground level, they don't require safety railings. While decks are primarily made of wood or a composite wood material or vinyl and often need railing. You have space in your backyard, you can make either deck or patio as per your choice.

I'm with Yard on the paver size. Large format pavers are hard to work with, even for experienced crews. One 16x24 weighs 72 lbs, according to the Menards link. Keep in mind that you're not just plopping them down and moving on. Odds are, because you'll be learning as you go, that you'll be pulling pavers up and putting them back multiple times to get a smooth, even surface. Plus, I don't know what the quality of the pavers are, but generally box store pavers aren't the greatest. That can mean being slightly out of square or other issues that are magnified when using a bigger paver. I'd do a 4x8 border and a 4x8 in a herringbone or running bond pattern. In terms of your questions: 1. suck it up and make the cuts. Go slow and take off a little material at a time until you get good at it. This is another reason to use smaller pavers if you're not confident about the cuts! It's way easier to piece together a curve with several smaller pavers than to try and cut a clean arc in a slab. 2. Rectangular is fine, but if you feel up to it I like Yard's concept. I wouldn't waste time putting curves against the planting bed. Soften the edge with plants and you'll be fine. The curves in that inspiration photo are a terrific example of what NOT to do. Squiggles aren't good design. If it looks like a roadkill rattlesnake, don't do it. 3. border the whole thing unless you have a compelling design reason not to. I don't see a reason not to. 4. if your house has red brick avoid pavers w/ red in them. The red pigments in clay bricks and the red pigments in concrete pavers will never look right together. Don't skimp on your base, and don't forget to pitch the patio slightly to shed water. The biggest thing is don't rush. Stand up and step back frequently, because your surface can start to get "wavy" and you'll never see it from 2-3 feet away. When I built my first paver walkway in 1995 I tore it out and redid it 3 times because I was impatient (and, at 20, kinda stupid).

"I'm looking for suggestions on the best patio/backyard entertaining area ideas." There are only best GENERAL ideas that you can incorporate. The specific best ideas are geared to your property, your needs, and your budget. If you plan to be in this house for several years, I suggest you start by creating a master plan (which is like a map of your property after you develop it), which can act as a general guide for all of your future projects. You do not have to plan down to the construction-detail-level ... just figure out what and where things things will be, and their general size and shape. That's good enough to avoid making some big mistakes by putting things in the wrong place only to discover it when the next project comes along. The starting point will be for you to create a base plan. It's like a map but shows ONLY those existing things which will remain for all time: house footprint, walls, walks, drive, tree trunks, AC, etc. Don't show anything proposed or extra details on the base plan. Example: