I found this on https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113602 Removing Linoleum Adhesive From FloorsProcedure code:965001SSource:Ohj - Shirley Maxwell & James C. Massey, 9/30/92Division:FinishesSection:Resilient FlooringLast Modified:08/02/2016 REMOVING LINOLEUM ADHESIVE FROM FLOORS PART 1---GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARY This procedure includes guidance on removing the mastic adhesive left behind when linoleum flooring has been removed. Linoleum flooring was very popular from 1863 to 1974. It was used historically as an original floor treatment in some GSA buildings. Linoleum's chief ingredient was linseed oil, pressed from flax seed, which became a tough, elastic material when exposed to air. The process essentially consisted of mixing linseed oil and gum with ground cork or wood flour, and pressing it onto burlap or canvas. It was then glued down to concrete or wood floors using a mastic cement. See "General Project Guidelines" for general project guidelines to be used along with this procedureThese guidelines cover the following sections: Historic Structures Precautions Submittals Quality Assurance Delivery, Storage and Handling Project/Site Conditions Sequencing and Scheduling General Protection (Surface and Surrounding) These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing this procedure and should be followed along with recommendations from the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO). PART 2---PRODUCTS 2.01 MATERIALS Clean, potable water Vinegar Citrus degreasing solvent such as "Limo Sol", or approved equal. Dry ice Chemical solvent such as isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, xylol, lacquer thinner, or paint stripper. 2.02 EQUIPMENT Heat lamp or hot-air gun Putty knife or scraper PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION NOTE: A waterproof glue is usually applied at the edges and seams of the linoleum; the center of the felt layers is usually attached with a water soluble paste. Soak the mastic area in hot water for 20-60 minutes or until soft.\ If this is not effective, try adding vinegar or high-strength citrus degreasing solvent to the water and then soak for 20-60 minutes until soft. If mastic still will not soften, try applying heat to the surface using a lamp or hot-air gun. -OR- Try freezing the mastic with dry ice to break the bond with the substrate. If no other methods are effective in softening the mastic, test a chemical solvent on the area. NOTE: Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to determine appropriate chemicals and strengths before proceeding with cleaning. Scrape away the softened mastic using a putty knife or garden edger. END OF SECTION interesting................

I agree that crate training is a very good thing when done properly. Like the dog whisperer says, "There are no bad dogs, just bad owners." I agree. I don't entirely agree w/ what the ppl that JCLE is talking about are doing, however, I have to add that I had a Choc. Lab. & after I got him familiar w/ his crate he enjoyed being in it much more than being loose in the house while I was gone. I only work part time, but sometimes I would have to leave him in his crate from 7 am to noon then again from 1 pm to 4 pm & he was totally content. Again, I only work part time, so this wasn't an every day occurence, but... Sometimes I would leave him loose in the house when I just had to run out for a few minutes & he would go crazy from the time I left until the time I returned, barking & tearing up stuff. That's the thing, I did train him not to chew stuff & he didn't *while I was around*, but as soon as he knew I was gone it was almost like he had seperation anxiety and that being in his crate made him feel safer & more secure. When I would come home when he was crated, he would, 95% of the time, be sleeping and if he wasn't, he would be calmly chewing on a toy or treat. BUT, my dogs do get lots of inside & outside play time, so exercise & interaction was not an issue. So, like I said, yes, I agree that 12 straight hrs. is not good, but maybe the dog actually would prefer that to being left loose in the house. I have heard of several dogs that have sep. anx. I'm not in anyway trying to take up for them or excuse what they are doing, just trying to get you to see the other side. Believe me, nothing angers me worse than ppl who get dogs & then don't love them like they need to be loved! Also, to whoever said being left outside doesn't help w/ house training a puppy, I have to disagree. When we got our Choc. Lab. it was warm outside & we knew that he was going to be an inside/outside dog (our other one is too), so when we did have to be gone for a few hrs. & couldn't take him w/ us, we tied him outside w/ my other dog (next to a doghouse of course). I honestly think this got him to pick his "spot" quicker & that's where he wanted to go when he had to & where he went until the day he died. We recently got a new puppy & since it's been so cold here & he's so tiny there's no way I'm going to leave him outside, so he's crated when he can't go w/ us & he has not caught onto training nearly as fast as our lab did, even though I'm training him the exact same way. Yes, I know that each dog is different & each will learn in it's own time, but I truly believe that being outside does help. Sorry to ramble, just wanted to add my 2 cents. :)

I agree with most of the Crate Training Article. However. Lots of people try to push things to fast. One of the biggest mistakes made is trying to get a dog used to the crate all at once. This can cause all sorts of problems, such as anxiety. The process must be rehearsed, especially with pups. It is unrealistic to think a pup can be used to your absence all at once when you are at work. You need to get pup used to the crate when you are going to be away. Starting with about 20 - 30 minutes is a good time period, and making a treat trail on the floor outside the crate that leads inside is best. Give a command such as "go home" so dog associates this with going in the crate. When you have to force pup inside, this is a negative, and pup won't look forward to going in. Also, gradually increasing the crating time by about 15 - 20 minutes is probably best. Dog needs to get used to your leaving, and be reassured that you are coming back. Pups can panic easily when you are not visible. They just don't realize that you have not left them. When you are at work for hours, they need to realize that you are going to come home for them. Again, doing this and other training is a gradual process, building sometimes small positive behavior on positive until dog is able to be weaned away from the crate. Alternately, it can (and does) go the other way, and negative get's built on negative, and winds up being a real mess. SG

Crate training when you are not home will solve that issue, and then direct supervision and training when you are at home. Treat your dog as you would a toddler. IF you can't physically keep an eye on her and monitor her behavior to shape it, then put her in her crate until you are through preparing dinner, vacuuming, etc. Make sure you also make room in your schedule for some structured physical exercise, even just walks. Treat every encounter as a learning opportunity that you can teach your dog. What you're doing right now is accepting unacceptible behavior, and that does not bode well for the future. The #1 reason dogs are surrendered to shelters is behavior issues that the owner didn't correct. Destroying the home is the #1 behavior issue listed for surrender, closely followed by digging and then jumping. All are fully correctible issues with enough monitoring and training. I'm sure you love your dog. Most people do. Love her enough to train her to behave correctly. If you need help with resources on how to do this, contact your local Humane Society for pamplets or recommendations for a trainer.