QUESTION for you, PLEASE
Pat Z5or6 SEMich
8 months ago
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Pat Z5or6 SEMich
8 months agoRelated Discussions
Bill & Mongo, Question for you please (repost)
Comments (7)Gotcha. I'd say do the shower floor just like it was a nobelseal shower floor. Run the membrane across the floor and up the wall studs/blocking to a height about 3" above the top height of the curb. Check into that 3" minimum, I think that's what Nobel recommends. It can be nailed or stapled to the studs at the top edge of the membrane. You can detail the corners as they are supposed to be. The thing to watch out with when using thicker membranes like Nobelseal is that several overlaps can cause the bottom edge of the backer board to get "kicked out" into the shower if the overlaps will be trapped between the backer board and the wall framing. Regardless, there are several ways to detail the corners, you can fold them, or cut and overlap, or use preformed corners. Or tuck the membrane into the corner. With tucked, just make sure that the tucked part doesn't flop down in the corner, you want the top of the tucked edge to stay 3" above the flood plain, or 3" above the top of the curb. Each corner method has its pluses and minuses, see which is best for you based upon your situation. That build-up when overlapping, though, that's why you'll see references to notching wall studs, etc, when using thicker membranes. Anyhow, after the floor membrane is installed, install your backer board on the wall. Hold it about 1/4" or so of the floor. Fill and seal that 1/4" gap with a Nobel sealant or its equivalent. Now if you were running nobel membrane on the walls, you'd run it on the walls and butt it to the floor membrane, sealing that butt joint with a bead of nobel sealant. However, since you're using Kerdi, you can do one of a few things: 1) Install the wall Kerdi just like it was nobelseal membrane, butting the Kerdi on the wall to the Nobel on the floor, and seal the wall-to-floor membrane joint with sealant. This might be the best way due to the uncertainties about overlapping Kerdi and Nobel that I'll talk about in a bit. 2) Run the wall membrane down the wall and lap it onto the floor membrane 3" or so, thinsetting the Kerdi membrane to the nobelseal on the floor. If you do this though, you might need to run a couple of beads of sealant between the Kerdi and the nobel where they overlap on the floor. 3) Any of the other typical "Kerdi" options, which would be running the wall membrane down onto the floor like in #2 above, or using Kerdi band to seal them, etc. Again, though, where Kerdi overlaps Nobel, you might need a couple of beads of nobel sealant. Regardless of which you chose, I'd call Nobel and Schluter and run the options past them. I think option #1 is pretty straightforward and safe. My concern is that while a Kerdi-Kerdi overlap can be made watertight with a 2" overlap and thinset, Nobel requires nobel-nobel overlaps to have two beads of sealant to make that overlap watertight. Essentially, the Kerdi-Nobel overlap is untried and untested, so two beads of sealant might be best. But it's still untested. However, (and it's a big however) the overlap really doesn't really have to be watertight. With the nobel floor membrane running several inches up the walls, it's like a traditional CPE shower pan. There's your waterproofing. All you really need were you to overlap Kerdi on to Nobel is that the overlap not delaminate. With thinset being able to adhere to the fabric of both membrane, that shouldn't be a problem....See Moreteach2007, another question for you please
Comments (3)Yes, Trudy, just ask how much gap there will between the door and the floor...something that NEVER crossed my mind. Ours are a good 2 inches off the floor. I think our carpenters are going to put a piece of trim across the bottom. Has anyone else had to do that? I just think they look funny being so far off the floor. They could have cut the trim down on the side, but then the doors would be shorter. Who knows which is best?...See MoreKellyeng, questions for you please
Comments (2)Hey trudymom, sounds like you are getting pretty close to starting! 1. MW is Minwax, purchased at Lowes. I would call it dark and the actual name is "English Chestnut" in the yellow can. 2. Everything is stained the same color. However we have different wood: alder cabinets, pine trim, fur doors and they all take the stain differently. 3. Yes all the stone is the same. Sandstone is generally darker than limestone. The color ranges from tan, buff, khaki, chocolate to red. Our stone is chopped and the lighter colors were culled. All the stone yards around here carry the same sandstone but each yard and quarry has a different name for the stone. whether it be "Tumbleweed Tan," "Autumn Blend," "Old Hickory Blend" or whatever, it's all the same stone just different colors and cuts. 4. my builder installed the tile and that was the pattern he came up with. I have no idea if it has a name. 5. Are you looking for pictures of anything specific?...See MoreNatal, Questions For You, Please
Comments (8)natal, oh your kitchen is so gorgeous, as is your screened-in porch!! Thank you for the pictures. It looks like it will be done soon and so worth the wait. Here is what we are trying to decide on: In the plan-below--at the top of the plan are 2 sets of French doors--one set off of the dining room, one set off of the kitchen, both going out onto a screened-in porch. Builder needs to know: 1. If the left door or the right door needs to be the "active" door. Both doors will be "workable"--he needs to know which one will be the first one that can open. 2. The screened-in porch door is at the same place as yours, but are stairs are straight out the door. Builder needs to know if we want the screened-in door to open in or out, and open to the right or left. Any thoughts? If you need me to take a better picture of the plan of the kitchen with the screened-in porch also, I can do it tomorrow when it is lighter out. Thank you so much....See More
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8 months agolast modified: 8 months agoPat Z5or6 SEMich thanked tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱Pat Z5or6 SEMich
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