Some of the posts here remind me of when the tile setters, GC and cabinet maker were here having a confab. After the walls and windows were done, the cabinet maker found an extra inch and wondered where I wanted it. Naturally, I chose countertop! So when we were talking about window trim, they were terribly concerned because I might have that inch more wall showing. Since my priority is countertop, I thought about it too quickly for them to notice and said no problem. They were shocked!!!! One said in surprise to another, "She's so easy!" I'm not. I just know my priorities and what I can live with. So my wish for Firstyear, and all the other TKOs, is contractors who care more about the bits that are a little off than you do. :-) Oh, and they figured out how to install the trim so that I get that inch of wall on both sides. And get my inch of countertop. So I wish for all of you to have good problem solvers too...

Wow, it is good to know that lots of people would have 60k for their kitchen renos these days. And they say we are heading towards a recession. Since I spend about 50k, I guess I would be below the average group according to Sophie's estimation. Of course one need to consider the size of the kitchen. I think 60k would be for a larger kitchen. My kitchen is considered medium size. I live in Canada so I don't know what the average money spend on kitchen is. Well like I've mentioned before, this is my first kitchen reno and I learned a lot from it. I had never thought to look below the cabinets at the showroom. Unfortunately at the showroom, they did not have the models of the kitchen I chose. They had other styles but it never occur to me to look below the cabinets. Of course they don't have on display the type of breakfast island I have chosen. That definitely wasn't an option. According to the "pros" here, I guess I am a picky customer. Now that I've learned from my mistakes, I would definitely advised my friends about them. I have a few of them, waiting for my reno to be done and see whether they will do it too. I do appreciate all you taking the time to comment and share your opinions. Hopefully, when people read these posts, they will be more aware of the "issues" when they tackle their future renovations.

The toekick issues is owned by the KD. It's an upgrade that has to be chosen in the software, and she didn't choose it. Thank you so much, Cooks Kitchen, for this info because you saved me from totally embarrassing myself!!! I swapped the two cabinets on that side at the last minute so the order was likely correct but there were "unintended consequences". I'm so glad I realized this before I contacted the builder and KD about it or I would have lost all credibility. So, for this item, the fix is on me. I'll probably install baseboard trim. A racked frameless oven cabinet is a big deal. Be sure that is actually the issue. Do a 3,4,5, measure on it. And measure the diagonals That's the plan, but I think it's just the face frame that isn't square. The frame is attached in the middle of the cabinet, above the bottom drawer and below the top doors. At the crown and the floor the cabinet appears level, however, we will be sure to confirm that. I sent the full punch list to the builder and he seems ok so far. We're meeting tomorrow to walk through together and he has already scheduled a meeting with the KD. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

At this point, the job ($4/sf for a BIG job with LOTS of things to do = awesome price) is finished. The cure is going to be worse than the disease. I'm a big fan of "Wait until you have a problem before throwing money/time at it." It is the cheapest solution I know of (I'm a pragmatist...who is both cheap AND lazy ;-P). My advice is this: leave it alone. Keep 10% 'extra' of the flooring product (roughly 75sf or to the nearest box). This will offer you the peace of mind and the material security you will need to feel secure. You will keep it in the back of your mind. You will know that IF something goes wrong you have ALL THE PRODUCT needed to repair/replace the damaged planks. With a laminate floor I wouldn't worry to much about a bit of bounce. People have 'put up with' bouncing laminate floors for 20 years (the SAME laminate they installed 20 years prior). That tells me the click system is fine. Your floor is a rigid vinyl (8mm thick = nice product). The rigidity of the core will help keep everything stable. The only weak point (as in everything in life) is the link (click edge) between one plank and another. This is the one and only place things *might go wrong. Now to be blunt, a rigid vinyl floor like yours can be taken apart and, "in theory", be clicked back together - BUT I don't like that idea. I really don't. We know the click-edge is delicate. We know that. We've seen them brake by grazing the ground before being installed. A vinyl floor that has been disassembled has a STRONG likelihood of DAMAGED edges. If the edge is damaged then there is almost no way you will get them back together. That means you will have to assume 25% damage should you choose to 'unzip' this floor to the point where it bounces. That leaves you with 75% intact flooring with 25% garbage planks (which must be replaced). As soon as you try to fix the subfloor underneath (by removing the flooring) you will have lost the 'intact' floor. You are guaranteed to spend MORE time, MORE money and MORE materials to deal with this. Compare that to 'leave it alone'. Right now you have 100% intact flooring. Every day you wake up to 100% intact floor is another day with a perfectly functional floor. Every day you have 100% intact floor is another day you have SAVED time, money and materials. Simply leave this floor alone until something MAKES you repair it. Keep your 5%-10% extra on hand for future repairs (and there will be future repairs). Use them if and when you need them.