How to add oxygen to well water when adding it to your lake?
I read well water doesn't have oxygen, so what are some methods of adding oxygen to the well water when adding it to your pond? I cant seem to find many picture. I added a spray bar under my dock but I think it was to close to my koi cages and I lost two 5" koi so I went back over to my sprayer head in the shallow water, is this sprayer head good enough or this there a better method to add oxygen?
Sprayer head pic below
Sprayer bar pic below: It's to close to my koi cages so I will abandon it.
Comments (9)
catfishhoward
9 months agoI have the county ag coming out soon to test the water and give me advise.
Here's an idea I came up with but have not glued the pvc together yet. I put the sprayer bar inside of an 4" pvc to agitate the water and have it run out of the 4"pvc? Would this be any better than just the single spray?
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Ever tried using an oxygen cylinder to oxygenate your pond?
Comments (5)Hi Sandy Thanks for some interesting information- if I just read more on this site from smart people like yourself, I wouldn't have to spend all my time thinking up crazy ideas. Wow, a pint of hydrogen peroxide per 1000 gallons? Any certain kind of hydrogen peroxide, just like what you buy in the drug store? Do you put this in just once, like pond salt, or do you keeping adding more as time goes on? I'll definately have to try that that this weekend! My pond does have a good (2500 GPH) water cascade coming from a temporary suspended filter. I'm rebuilding the permanent waterfall(filter) and stream right now. It's also completly covered by shade trees. I wasn't sure what you meant about the rubber bellows. I had planned on just running a hose from the regulator directly to an air stone at the bottom of the pond. I'll probably still try my O2 cylinder idea- I'm a welder/frustrated inventer, I love putzing around with ideas! Thanks for your great ideas, I'd love to learn more! Chris...See MoreAdding a water storage tank to an existing well system
Comments (5)I just happened to come by this forum for maybe the second time in several months. This gets into several issues that are about technology. There are several very sharp people who address these sorts of issues daily, but on other forums in this group. See "irrigation" which is under "professional topics", and especially "plumbing" and "electrical wiring" under "That Home Site" (linked). I suggest you repost this on the electrical wiring forum. I promise you will get useful responses quickly. It will be better to get others involved from the beginning. Now, a bit on your questions. Number twelve would not handle a second pump at 500 ft, you are limited to one 1/2 HP as it stands. Voltage drop is already an issue at the 3% voltage drop standard, probably okay at the 5% overall drop standard. This is based on a nominal 4.9 amp draw for the 1/2 HP. Alternating pumps would be technically possible but probably not the best solution. Could the storage tank be located near the house? It would be simpler and probably better to have independent power to the second pump. Output from a good 1/2 HP sub in a tank at the lower elevation would be about 9 gpm at 50 ft. + 50 psi. That might be a little small. I also wonder if the storage tank could be smaller. What sort of flow and volume demands would you like to serve? What is the time frame? Answers to those questions will influence the choices for the second system. Here is a link that might be useful: see plumbing & electrical forums...See MoreWell Water - How to treat/soften
Comments (10)First thing would be to see if the Sears softener is correctly sized and setup for your water conditions. Sears softeners do not do well on well water and they don't have a long life in those installations. You need a comprehensive water test from a certified lab. You should have received that before you moved in if the house is on a well. With that info we can tell if the Sears is up to the job, if the Sears is working properly, or not at all and what you'd need to do the job correctly... especially if you have iron. I would NOT recommend softening only the hot water. I would avoid that water treatment company and look elsewhere. Have you talked to your neighbors about water treatment? They might tell you who is good or who to avoid. A correctly sized industry standard softener (not one from a big box store) setup to correctly and efficiently treat your water is your best option. Installing an RO under the kitchen sink is a convenient additional treatment for drinking, cooking, and ice making duties. A proper RO installation would have the RO water feeding it's own faucet and an ice maker or fridge water outlet with PE tubing so there is NO risk of any leaching. As for the question of what RO water does to the human body... go to your local Walmart and watch the people filling up their water bottles at the water machine. Do they look OK? They are all drinking and cooking with RO water cause that water machine is a big RO....See Morewell water treatment recommendations
Comments (4)First, you will need to know the flow your well can generate. That may determine your possibilities for iron removal. Get a 5 gallon bucket and open an outside spigot close to where you will install your treatment system. Time how long it takes to fill the bucket. Repeat several times to get a good average. How many people are in your home? Any high-water-use fixtures such as a multi-head shower or jetted tub? Sediment: With the amounts of sediment you are talking about, a backwashing sediment filter will be a much better option than cartridge filters. pH: a calcite/corosex mix is a good option. HOWEVER, topping it off with corosex alone is not. You want at least 50% calcite any time you top it to avoid the corosex cementing. Fe/Mn: If money, space and pressure drop are no object, certainly a dedicated treatment is best. The amounts you have are small enough, however, that a softener will successfully remove them. Since you are already going to have a complicated treatment scheme, and you will need a softener anyway to remove the hardness added by pH adjustment, you may wish to consider using a softener for this purpose. H2S: You need to determine if you do have H2S in sufficient quantities to require removal. There are several methods available to you. The most convenient, if you decide to go with dedicated Fe/Mn removal, would be to use a system that will remove H2S as well. Do your neighbors have the same problems with their water? You are looking at significant capital, effort and operating costs with all of the treatment your water will require. It may be better to consider increasing the depth of your well instead....See Morejrb451
9 months agocatfishhoward
8 months agoSince I got to get some water in the pond I went ahead and glued the sprayer bar together and slipped the 4" pipe over it and the waters dumping through a aluminum step board I had and onto concrete block creating more oxygen.
I'll wait for the ag person to come by to give me more advise and water test before doing anymore.
Since this is a mud pond and I've seen it go up as much as 2' in a week from rain I hope the well water is okay now as long as I'm adding oxygen to it.
catfishhoward
8 months agolast modified: 8 months ago
beesneeds
8 months agocatfishhoward
8 months agoI'm not sure about the 5.7 PH being correct from the mail off test? I know we had a lot of rain when I sent the water out to be texted.
Lake water: PH – 6.5 now is correct because I have bought a test kit and checked it also.
The pond loses about 5/8" a day due to evaporation and we haven't had the rain to keep it full. I normally never worried about it going 12"+ low but I have koi cages at the end of my dock that are 2.5" tall so I need to keep them off the bottom of the lake. I'm going to see if I can sell koi fish next year, figured growing them out in cages would be cheaper then building on land holding tanks/filtration. If I decide to sell koi moving on I will build on land tanks to grow the young koi and keep the pond just for the bigger 14" koi.
jrb451