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What is wrong with this cherry tree?

9 months ago

The year after Hurricane Sandy, I gave up trying to save a 40-year-old crab apple tree on this spot that had been seriously damaged. I had the tree removed and the stump ground down more than a foot. In its place I had planted this cherry tree. The tree's been doing fine until this Spring. We did have a late frost (2nd week of May) and a 3-week drought. The tree's leaves seem to be smaller than usual, a bit yellower, and in particular, as the photos show, a few smaller branches have produced only a few leaves which quickly browned. I also note that one of the smaller roots (+/- 2" diameter) has girdled a larger root (4-5") on one side. A few other roots seem closer to the surface as well, which I'm not sure is a problem. Should I try cutting away the small girdling root? What else can be wrong? Thanks, guys.

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Comments (4)

cecily 7A
9 months ago
Since the tree is surrounded by lawn, I'm interested in your lawn care practices and which products you use.
onthebrinck
Original Author
9 months ago
I use Scott's crabgrass preventer around Easter. After that I use Milorganite once in July and again in late September. No other chemicals.
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Christy: Is the nonperforming cherry tree by any chance a sweet cherry on a full-dwarfing rootstock such as Gisela 5? Weather may have played a role here, but it is much more likely that you have had a failure at the graft, which is common on dwarfing cherry rootstocks. I have lost several cherries on these dwarfing rootstocks, and won't be planting any more. There is not much of a distinction between dead and dying, and it sounds as if your cherry tree is dying. What leads you to believe the tree is still alive? A little green in the cambium layer? If the tree is not leafed out on May 18, that will soon go away and turn to brown. What was the source of this tree, and what, indeed, is the rootstock? As for your plums, it sounds as if the one in the container is not very happy, and may be checking out as well. If the one in the ground is doing well, the obvious solution is to plant them in the ground. Again, any tree, container or in-ground, that has not leafed out by May 18 in New Jersey is on its way out. There is really nothing you can do but watch and wait. I hope I am wrong and that your trees spring to life, but I am afraid I am not. Again, where did you get these trees? I am not sure what is meant by a "dwarf" plum. Plum rootstocks should all be pretty much the same. You may have planted trees that are inappropriate for your location, and that is why their source is of interest. You may be hearing from others who will tell you to be patient, that the trees will leaf out, etc. etc. It's always nice to hear some encouraging words, but I'm afraid I can't offer any. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA
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such a large tree.. was probably field grown ... and that looks like damage that began from digging it out of the field ... it may end up dying down to the ground... if it is a grafted plant ... most likely the graft is above the damage ... and you will end up with a root stock plant... and if that were a valuable plant.. they wouldnt have cut its head off for the pretty one .. im pretty sure... at this distance.. those are root suckers ... sorry to say.... but ..in tree time.. you might want to start over ... you could wait to see the show in spring.. and then decide... or find a better tree this fall .. and replace it.... dont go big again ... you might find a better.. smaller tree .. which for novices.. will end up easier to grow.... welcome to the forums .... below is a good primer on planting a tree .. do note.. timing.. and proper watering ... usually lawn irrigation is not good enough for a transplant ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub
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cyn427 (z. 7, N. VA)
9 months ago
last modified: 9 months ago
Did you water well during your drought? If not, that could be your problem. If there is no or little rain, young, newly-planted trees need to be watered for at least the first year until they get established. I always water well when I first plant, Watering well would be about five gallons a week and out to the drip line, although maybe more since your tree looks to be a good size. Depending on where you live, you can stop watering once the ground freezes. Here in VA, I might water in winter if we have no precipitation and the temps are in the high 30s, 40s. If you don't get rain throughout the summer, just be sure to water. You can check the dryness by digging down to see if there has been enough rain to soak into the soil. We had what seemed like decent rain recently, but when I was planting, the ground was bone dry four inches down.

I would not touch the roots.
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
9 months ago
It's a cherry.......I'd honesty be surprised if there was nothing wrong with it!! Cherries - both ornamental and fruiting - are prone to more disease and insect issues than any other tree I can think of. Bacterial canker, gummosis, black knot, brown rot, shothole, leafspot, leaf scorch - all are common cherry ailments and all can cause leaves to brown, dry and die.

My best advice is to take samples to your county extension office for a diagnosis and treatment options, if any.

That is not a young or newly planted tree, so the advise about watering is unlikely to apply except for times of drought. I also wouldn't mess with the roots.
onthebrinck thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

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