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Removing electrical box support bar

9 months ago

last modified: 9 months ago

I'm replacing a "new work" blue plastic electrical box that our contractor installed years ago to put in a remodel brace and fan-rated box for a ceiling fan. The blue box was attached to a support bar between joists. I was able to remove the screws on one side (closest to the opening), but can not figure out how to remove the two screens on the other end without opening up the hole more. How do I avoid turning this simple project into a big mess?

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Comments (8)

cat_ky
9 months ago
Do you have an attic without flooring? If so, you can go up there and get at it easily. Thats also most likely what the electrician that installed it did.
RJ Miller
Original Author
9 months ago
last modified: 9 months ago
Nope, we don't have an attic and no access from above. We renovated the house before we moved in and had the entire house rewired. So everything was open for the electrician.
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Brian, your first set of pics show the electrical box, and I dont see anything that shows it being attached to studs, but obviously we dont have a good view of it. Your second set of pics show a standard recessed lighting fixture with the electrcal box being off to one side. They are not the same thing as the electrical box in the first set of pictures. Keep looking. You’re looking for a small octagonal box that sticks out about an inch or two.
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If your house is pre-wired for CAT5, that's really nice. While everything uses WiFi these days, in urban environments there tends to be a lot of interference. You spend a lot less time diagnosing and fixing networking problems, if you hardwire all the non-mobile devices in your household (e.g. your game console and you video streaming devices). You might also find that you need more than one access point to adequately cover your entire house with WiFi signal. If the noise floor is really low (such as in rural settings), you can get away with a single powerful access point. If the noise floor is higher, you do much better with multiple access points that you all turn down as much as possible (that encourages devices to properly roam from one device to the next). So, yes, if you find ethernet wiring in your walls, hire an electrician for a few hours work and ask them to properly terminate all of these locations and put proper ethernet jacks into the walls.
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cat_ky
9 months ago
In that case, you will have to cut out a section of drywall, and then remove the bracket, and install your new one for the fan, and install the new box, then put in a new piece of drywall, and get it taped and mudded and sanded. It will need to be primed and painted and probably that entire ceiling will need to be repainted.
PRO
PPF.
9 months ago
You can buy extensions -- bit goes in one end, attach to a handle made to accept a hex bit, or right angle drill.

Biggest problem will be seeing what you are doing.
RJ Miller
Original Author
9 months ago
@cat_ky All of that mess is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.
RJ Miller
Original Author
9 months ago
@PPF. Yup, tried that. And you're right, not being able to see makes it extremely tricky.
PRO
PPF.
9 months ago
One of these would help, and do not cost much. I'm linking the first one in a search and not recommending this specific one.

https://www.amazon.com/Inspection-Fantronics-Waterproof-Borescope-Adjustable/dp/B071HYRPND?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2UPMZGQGXZTQ0
ci_lantro
9 months ago
Maybe? Cut a larger round hole where the J box to give you better access? Patch with drywall and cover with a ceiling medallion?

Or cut a small access hole directly in front of where the bracket is attached and use a right angle drill or drill attachment to remove the screws?

Look like drywall screws holding it in the photo. Were the ones that you removed drywall screws? If so, they are brittle and snap easily. Manhandling it...grasp, twist, pull...lock onto the bar with vise grips...might get lucking and be able to snap the screws.

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