Well I answered my own Question. By removing the leaves that had rust (before the spores started showing up).

It's been so wet and cool in NJ so far this season. I still haven't planted out most of my Salvia Lady in Red and Coral Nymph. Ones in ground are just sitting there. They take off so fast once it warms up I'm not worried. The ones I potted up to 5" plastic pots are much larger and stronger than those in 3" Cow Pots which are water hogs and roots don't penetrate as promised. I didn't know TMV was a problem with Salvia! I just read something about it when trying to figure out how to grow Tomatoes for the first time. They warned about smokers touching certain vegetable plants and TMV. Being a smoker (bad, I know) I'll be using my tub of bleach/water solution I keep on the patio before I touch Salvia in addition to washing my hands/tools for cleaning off dirt, possible bacteria/viruses and while working on roses. The first couple weeks of rain were okay on plants but they're not getting a chance to dry out by now with more rain. I figure I'm lucky when it rains after I plant things out because I don't have to lug around watering cans for a few days. There seems to be a lot of aphids this year. They've even been landing on my arms which never happened before. I can give roses hard water spray in morning but not new little plants. Weather's been so fritzy there haven't even been bees or Cabbage Whites on Salvia Victoria, Caradonna or May Night this year while they mobbed them last year. Guess patience with Mother Nature, which we can't control, is in order.

We have some problems in the UK, the worst being red spider-mite. This is a particular problem with S. dombeyi, S. concolor, Van Houttei, and the large Splendens. Regular and frequent sprays of water on the underside of the foliage can help, also good air circulation which is not easy in a crowded greenhouse! Aphids.....whitefly, greenfly, and blackfly attack some plants, but these can be spotted more easily, and a gentle spray of strongly diluted washing-up liquid usually works. The Salvias which seem to me most affected are Indigo Spires, gesneriiflora, tubiflora, carduacea, and farinacea. Outside, I sometimes get die-back on S. fulgens and S. patens, probably a virus. I just cut off the dieing stems. Weather conditions play an important part. No two English summers are the same, and some Salvias can behave very differently each year. Robin.

This photo was of my early attempts at CA native and other salvia propagation by cutting, I've refined a bit since those days, but I still prefer used plastic beverage containers so I don't feel bad about cutting them open with hand clippers when they have established new roots (which will snap very easily if yanked out of the container). You take fresh spring cuttings of non-woody growth in the morning when the plant's stems and leaves are full of moisture and least likely to wilt, dip the stem in a solution (I prefer vinegar or willow water to stimulate growth over rooting hormone, which is indole-3-acetic acid, IAA or IAB, wheras vinegar is simply acetic acid), and I use a rooting mix of one-third washed sand and two parts perlite -- perlite drains better than vermiculite. Then I place the cutting in a place that gets limited morning sun only, maybe 2 hours or so, & keep them moist but not soggy which usually means watering 1-2 times a day with a watering can. Pretty simple actually, often easier than germinating seeds for S. apiania, clevelandi, leucophylla, mellifera, brandegeii, ... and coaxing them along to an age when they can be transplanted.