Kaolin clay (Surround WP) on roses to deter Japanese Beetles
SamuellaZ6a
10 months ago
last modified: 10 months ago
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Kaolin Clay for flea/cucumber/Japanese beetles, squash borers
Comments (38)Spraying plants with bug juice, or leaving a can of dead bugs on display, can't hurt, and probably helps. I had read that the JB sends a scout and then the scout releases a scent telling others it's a good spot. My experience last year goes along with that. I was in the garden, one arrived and I hadn't yet set up my can. I was working on putting my glove on, but before I could, two more came, started sexing on a leaf, and then a bunch more piled on. I ran and set up the can and started flicking them in and kept the can at hand, but also on display in case there was some kind of scent of death. The first year I had JB, I got the scout and stepped on him, then left his body on the ground. I definitely think there's something to this, although I've never been able to catch cucumber beetles quickly enough. They're tricky....See MoreOrganic solutions for Japanese Beetle control?
Comments (25)Japanese Beetles' rely heavy on scent, and you can use that as a weapon against them. Here's how: Kill the first Japanese beetles you see in your garden. It's important that you catch them early, so keep a close watch. They regularly appear during the second week of June in my area. You may be a few weeks ahead or behind that schedule. When you see a few beetles, get to work: Fill a bucket about half full of water. Add a quarter of a cup of dish soap. (The amount of soap isn't that critical as long as it's present.) Snag beetles with you gloved hands and place them in the bucket. If touching them doesn't appeal to you, you can knock them into the bucket by giving the branch they're on a quick shake. This could take some practice. Leave the beetles in the bucket. They'll die and begin decomposing. The smell will deter other beetles, and the presence of soap will discourage or kill mosquitoes. (The bucket will only smell nasty to beetles.) Set the bucket in an area where you've had bad infestations before, or select a spot that gets good airflow. In doing this, you're letting new beetles know that the area is off limits. Think of it as the beetle equivalent of razor wire. Leave the bucket in place for at least a two to three weeks, adding to it every couple of days. You'll see beetle activity slowly diminish over that time. If you start this procedure too late in spring, it won't work nearly as well -- if at all. _____________ The soapy water works. My method is a little different. I half-way fill a plastic bowl (soft spread margarine or whipped topping) with water and a few drops of dish soap. I also fill a spray bottle with the same solution. Shaking the branches over the bowl often causes the Japanese beetles to escape, so I spray them first with the spray bottle. With soap in their eyes and on their wings they don't immediately fly away, giving you time to knock them into the soapy water solution in the bowl or to pick them off before they fly away. Using several bowls allows you to spread them out increasing the effectiveness of the dead bug scent as a deterrent. http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1710432/organic-solutions-for-japanese-beetle-control hope this helps...I just did this, I hand picked them, added them to boiling hot water and dishwaching liquid, instant death, now hoping the scent will deter others. don't want to use any poison even milk or tobacco spray kills any soft-bodied insect and I love my ladybugs and their larvae :-) Fortunately I have many wild insect-eating birds. this is how Japanese beetle larvae looks like...See MoreEffective protection against Japanese Beetles?
Comments (19)Here is some interesting information about Japanese Beetle control from Prof. Daniel A. Potter of the University of Kentucky Department of Agriculture. I have corresponded with this professor, after finding one of his earlier articles about Japanese Beetles on the web, and he has been kind enough to summarize some research results that will probably be published within the next year. I mentioned to Prof. Potter that I would forward his comments to Gardenweb.com. First, here is my summary: several different "conventional" and organic insecticides and repellents, which are advertised to reduce JB damage to plants, were tested by applying the products to linden tree foliage (one of JB's most favorite foods), "weathering" the treated foliage outdoors for varying time intervals of 1,3,7,14,19 days (to test durability of each product when exposed to the elements including rain), and then offering the treated and "weathered" foliage to JBs. Some of the more effective products, from longest to shortest lasting, were: 1. Synthetic pyrethroids (deltamethrin, bifenthrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, permethrin, and cyfluthrin): all gave effective protection for more than 19 days. (I don't yet have the trade names in these products, or any information about the "inert" ingredients that are mixed with the pyrethroids.) 2. Sevin: protected for about 14 days 3. "Pyola" from Gardens Alive, natural (botanically derived) pyrethrins in a canola oil base, the most effective organic product: protected for about 5 days 4. "Neem-away" from Gardens Alive, neem oil product, protected for about 2 days During the protected time span, JBs will not feed (or will not survive an attempt to feed) even when put right next to the "target" foliage. If, as other research suggests, JBs tend to follow a "feeding trail" marked by the pheromone scent of other JBs, it may be that JBs will not return in force to a protected plant (or garden) for some period of time even after the repellent wears off. Such an after-effect was not tested in the study. Here now is the complete letter from Prof. Potter: ############################################################ Last summer one of my students evaluated a number of "organic" insecticides, as well as known or putative feeding deterrents for repellence or direct control of adult Japanese beetles on linden foliage. We sprayed individual intact linden shoots, allowed the residues to weather outdoors for varying 1, 3, 7, 14, or 19 d, and then harvested those shoots and challenged them in "no-choice tests" with 10 beetles confined with a treated or untreated leaf, or in "choice tests" wherein 10 beetles are offered a treated versus untreated leaf in an arena. We tested five synthetic pyrethroids (active ingredients were deltamethrin, bifenthrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, permethrin, cyfluthrin) and all of them gave at least 19 days residual control from a single application, despite frequent and heavy rains. Sevin gave about 2 wks protection (longer than I would have thought), but did not last as long as the pyrethoids. Among the "homeowner-oriented organic products", the most effective were "Pyola" and "Neem-Away", both from Gardens Alive. Pyola is a combo of natural pyrethrins plus canola oil; it was effective out to 3 days, but not to 7 days post-spray. Pyola also was relatively rain-fast once the residues had dried. Pyola served as a feeding deterrent, and also gave rapid knockdown, although most of the exposed beetles eventually recovered in these lab assays. I think they would dessicate and perish in the field. One day old residues of Neem-Away were highly deterrent and gave good protection, but the effect noticeably was wearing off by 3 days, and the product seemed less rain-fast than Pyola. Surround is a kaolin clay based emulsion that is sprayed on plant material to deter insects. It essentially whitewashes the plant material with a fine film of inert white clay. In our trials, surprisingly it did not deter the beetles from eating the linden foliage. Regardless, I don't think that Surround is well suited to use on roses or other flowering ornamentals because the white coating affects aesthetics. But it does have promise for fruit protection, where the clay residues can be washed from the fruit after harvest. We are also looking at Surround as a borer treatment (i.e., whitewashing tree trunks). Keep in mind that these were one set of experiments on one plant species (linden), so results might differ on other plants. For example, we did not apply them to open rose blooms. But from what we saw, either Pyola or Neem-Away should give short-term residual protection and be effective if re-applied as-needed (every few days) during the period when Japanese beetles are abundant. Of course, neither will protect rose blooms that break bud and open "in between" sprays. Several of the "natural" plant extract-based products that we tested (and that claim efficacy against Japanese beetles) caused severe phytotoxicity (burned the leaves), so growers would be well advised to test such products on one or two plants before treating a whole garden. As I am 100% Research and Teaching, I regret that I'm unable to answer all requests from the many individual gardeners who find me on the Web or telephone. We will be publishing this work in both scientific and popular articles, but probably not until sometime later in 2005. Also, we may be doing additional testing on roses. Feel free to follow up later on. Incidentally, there is a good Fact Sheet on Japanese beetle management that can be downloaded for free from the University of Kentucky Department of Entomology website. Hope that helps. Regards, Dan Potter ############################################################...See MoreJapanese Beetle "Resistant" Grape Vines?
Comments (5)No, I don't think BTK will work on Japanese beetle. Each of the BT products is very specific and only works on one category of insect. BTK for caterpillars, BTI for mosquitoes/flies, and now BTG for Japanese beetles and other scarab beetles (like rose chafer beetles). The product I know of is called Beetlejus! in its liquid form here in the states, but I'm sure there's granular formulations as well. The only problem is here in the States it is under patent for a few years and only available from one company (Gardens Alive). Not sure if that would be the same in Canada. The good thing about BTG is that it is capable of working against the grubs and the actual beetle itself, but it won't harm anything else besides the beetles in this scarab beetle family. So they shouldn't harm your beneficial nematodes. You'd probably want to get the granules/powder for the soil (maybe do the whole lawn?) and then spray the liquid when you see the actual beetles. Not sure why milky spore isn't approved in Canada. To my knowledge, it is the same soil dwelling organism that keeps Japanese beetles in check in Japan. ::shrug:: But you need to apply it for a few years, and you might not see good results until about year two or three, so it is a long-term solution anyway. Also, kaolin clay (Surround) applied to grape leaves/grapes (usually you need to apply twice to get a good coating) has been proven to greatly reduce Japanese beetles on your grapes. Of course, you will have a white grape arbor and will need to wash your grapes thoroughly after picking, but if you don't mind the ghostly appearance and the washing, that's another great organic option. I think if you want to grow grapes there is no reason you should be deterred by the Japanese beetles. You will have to put a little effort into spraying and putting down product but there are plenty of organic options that shouldn't be too much work. Too bad you are not in the South...I would recommend Muscadine grapes. We moved into a house that had some established Muscadine vines, and these are the hardiest grapes I have ever seen. Nothing seems to phase them. Unfortunately, I know nothing about grapes for northern climes, but if you do your research and find a grape that is hardy for your area, and keep up a good pruning and spraying program, there is no reason you shouldn't get good grapes. Good luck!...See MoreSamuellaZ6a
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