We get TONS of nice comments on the Frog-tape! When it was first avail. in Nov. '07, we jumped on it. We haven't looked back. Still sells very well here. It was ~ a year b4 I noticed it at the local HD in town!! 2 better (NON-Frog) ways to stop seepage... 1) Use just a TRACE of Painter's-Caulk rubbed along the edge. Use a clean cloth to wipe off what you can see. If you can't see it...IT'S ENOUGH! >>> This is BULLETPROOF. 2) Use your paint to "dry-brush" the edge. You'll apply too little to bleed...just a "haze" of paint. It dries too fast when thinly applied, and won't bleed, but will fill the micro-pores. Personally, I wait 'till next day to pull tape! * It's CRITICAL to score the edge so paint doesn't pull-into itself. * Paint-bonding can take weeks b4 fully cured-out. * During this time, the paint film is better bonded TO ITSELF...than it is to the wall!! * Therefore, if ya don't score the edge, odds are 50% it'll pull into your drying paint. * By waiting to pull tape, my edges are LASER fine, due to the scoring with a sharp snap-knife. Faron

I wish there was a "Sticky" thread/post feature here, so common miscues like this would always be visible in the thread-listings!! >>> Are ya listening GW-Moderators?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Modern paints/primers DRY quickly. >>>> BUT The trick here is realizing that your new paint is DRIED TO ITSELF, AS A SHEET-FILM, MUCH SOONER than it bonds to the wall. >>> That's why new paint-films are so vulnerable to being torn off when tape is removed!!! * That little "bridge" of paint that laps onto the tape is part of the WALL-FILM. * Because this overlap is now a "dry-sheet" with the rest of the wall, it'll easily take the wall-film with it when tape is lifted!!! * Again...this occurs because the paint hasn't even remotely bonded to the substrate yet. I've babbled this MANY times here.... * I PURPOSELY wait 'till next day to remove my tape. * The cut-line is very sharp this way! * With a SHARP box-cutter or snap-knife, slowly score thru the new paint-film, AT THE TAPE EDGE. * By doing this, you're now SEPARATING the wall-paint from the tape. * Obviously, the tape is now "free" of the "still bonding" paint that's left behind on the wall. Full cure-through of some paints CAN take a MONTH. The Remedy?!?!!? Wellllll....* ahem * ... Yes...spackling to level, sanding flush, and any re-texturing. * Touching-up only these areas will probably be very noticeable... * Re-tape again if desired. * I'd now RE-PRIME THE WHOLE WALL to med-gray. * Apply the Red. * Buy a sharp knife. Go to bed....;-) * Score tape-edge tomorrow (!?), and your problem is over.... * Now you can tell all your friends who are maybe re-painting, your new "secret"! Faron

Thanks everyone for all your responses!! Lukkiirish- I actually bought some "Goo Gone" at BB&B but wanted to make sure it wouldn't affect the finish on my cabs. . Thanks for confirming that it is in fact safe. Alex and bbstx- I will also try using the hair dryer trick. I hadn't even thought of that. Edlakin- whichever method I resort to using I will definitely make sure I heed your advise about pulling the tape straight out as I work at removing it. Raehelen- Thanks for not making me feel so bad. Hopefully I can get this off in time without it petrifying.

Spackle the damages with an all-purpose drywall compound. (It may require two thin coats of mud) -Sand the drywall compound -Spot prime with primer/sealer. -Repaint the entire ceiling with Benjamin Moore 508 dead flat ceiling paint. This is professional advice. It looks like the ceiling was never primed and hence the peeling. I would tape the walls near the ceiling with yellow 1" Frog tape. ( step #1) Next, hang some 9' plastic (from rolls) from ceiling to floor. Attach the plastic with 1.5" blond 3M 2020 tape, but stick it onto the yellow tape you applied in step #1. Test that too, because you may have the same problem if the walls were never primed. I use a Wooster 14" roller cage with a 1/2" Pro./Doo--Z roller sleeve. Good luck!