If your window ledge was flush with the area behind the sink (i.e. it didn't overhang and have the "wings" cat_mom and I mentioned in previous posts), you could continue all around with your window casing on all 4 sides. But something to consider is the width of the casing and having wood right by your sink & faucet. Unless it is very narrow, you will likely have a very narrow band of tile for backsplash by your sink--it will be mostly casing. Personally, for durability (and I'm not especially messy at the sink), I'd rather have tile or some other more durable material for the area by the sink than a wooden window casing right where the tap is. But YMMV! Just a thought. I think having the same black granite on the ledge (as on your counters), with a bit of an overhang then having all tile backsplash between the counter and the ledge will look great.

Hi madster, Unfortunately, I can't recommend a fabricator in your area, however, here's a photo from the fabricator we plan to use (GA) that could possibly be helpful in giving you an idea of shape, etc. if you decide to go with the glass. Were you planning on using regular glass or crackled glass? I think the crackled glass will be more durable and less likely to break, but the drawback is the price - it's not inexpensive by any means! We've debated actually including it in the design many times for that reason and currently are planning to, but that could change I suppose! We didn't find many fabricators that deal with the crackled glass, but found this one just by doing an internet search. The photo below is fairly close to what we'd like for ours. I'm not sure I'd want it if it would be used on a daily basis or if I had kids - granite might be more practical. I simply like the look of it as an accent and something a bit different, and it will primarily be used when entertaining most likely. Here is a link that might be useful: Advanced Glass Designs

damiarain: We use the nook just for group milling, and often flip the counter stools that live at the kitchen peninsula over to the counter on the pony wall... this works well for parties or TV viewing or casual just-us dinners... or laying out a buffet or appetizers. But I've always thought it was a waste of space... it's not a very big area though... not big enough for furniture other than stools. But the pony wall and the multiple entrances really break up the space. We were not planning on changing kitchen layout. It works well, just needs a serious cosmetic facelift... too beige & faux-Tuscan. I prefer contemporary and clean lines. Also the travertine floor tiles are super cold in the winter. So we'll install hardwood floors that match the rest of the 1st floor. I'm trying to talk my husband into painting the cabinetry (which we'll keep) but so far he loves the wood look. The bay windows are 22" from the ground on the inside. We can't extend the FR to include some of living room. These rooms are on opposite sides of the kitchen so not contiguous at all. Did you mean the nook area? The FR is sunken because of the dropped ceiling. so it's hard to integrate with / extend into anything else. The LR is a wonderful room in the front of the house with great light... somewhat of a large formal LR which is less practical these days but it's a very sweet space that looks out onto the view. We always try to move guests into that room but everyone congregates in the kitchen/nook area! Swapping the FR and DR is an interesting idea though I think the DR is too small for a FR... it's narrow, opens up to the LR and is dark. You couldn't watch TV in there, as no wall is far enough away for viewing... my husband LOVES his TV;) But it would likely make a really nice kitchen.

Floating floors with a "click together edge" requires it to keep the floors intact. A floating engineered hardwood is often a glue-edge technique. This is different from a click-together-edge (but some engineered hardwood floors now offer the glueless floating floor option). The click-edges have LIMITED "grab". Once that grab has been exceeded, the floor will rip itself apart at the narrowest point = doorways (point of least resistance). An floating engineered wood floor has glue that holds the planks together. And glue has a much BETTER hold. The glue allows engineered floating hardwoods to run through pinch points and have longer runs. The installation instructions for this particular floor are quite vague....which is a question I have about the instructions. And the floating floor instructions make mention of transitions....but not WHERE or WHY to put them in. Which tells me there is some sort of limitation....but that limitation has been left out by the manufacturer. The problem now for the OP remains: an uneven floor height in a space that is very small, with three different substrates and three different strategies to work them "flat". I would say even a seasoned flooring installer with years of experience would find this area quite challenging. A DIYer is going to have a ton of trouble just to get this area cleaned up and levelled.