Removed mustache landscaping, now what?

11 months ago

I didn’t like how the landscaping looked like a droopy set of mustaches on both sides of the stairs, and how the two stripes of boxwoods pinched off the pathway to the front door. We took out the boxwoods on the left side, hoping this would open up the middle area and feel more like a broader curve of boxwoods leading to the front door. We also just had a retaining wall put in. But now I’m not sure how to shape the left side of the landscaping. Do I need to keep the same general shape of the old garden bed, so it matches the right side? Or can I make it narrower, just to the edge of the retaining wall, and go straight up along the stairs? Or should there be a shorter “wall” of plants on the outside edge of the retaining wall like on the right side? I don’t know how to tag, it I’m hoping Dig Doug’s Designs will weigh in!

Featured Answer

PRO

Celery. Visualization, Rendering images

11 months ago

Some option to go

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (104)

PRO
Flo Mangan
10 months ago
Gardens are gorgeous! We have had River birch too and do love them. They gave us rapid privacy and were easy to maintain. They backdropped an elevated corner stone patio area and it was so enjoyable. Everything looks spectacular.
Little Bird
Original Author
10 months ago
Thanks for all your advice and encouragement, Flo! I agree, the river birch are great as a background. The houses are all very close together in our neighborhood, so it adds some privacy and also blocks ugly views of the garbage cans in the alley.

My next task is to figure out what to plant in these two raised garden beds by the sunroom patio. I tried some coleus and petunias, but they look pretty sad. It’s full shade, and we have chipmunks digging at least 10 holes a day. They pop up and dive down all day long like in cartoons. So smaller, more delicate flowers won’t work. There’s also a light in the center. Not sure if I easily move those and maybe plant something perennial and evergreen there? Or something low and trailing? Anyone have ideas for zone 4, full shade?
Related Discussions
Landscapers forgot to kill bermuda before tilling it - What now?
Q
Comments (4)
I am not completely thrilled with the idea of using Roundup, but there is no other practical way of getting rid of the old lawn at this point. We don't have to worry about killing any other plants because our yard now is a giant dirt plot (albeit covered in bermuda roots.) The landscape fabric that was installed previously was a very thick felt and all it did is make the weeding harder. The bermuda root grew in a thick thatch underneath the fabric and you couldn't shovel it out without pulling the fabric up. The roots go several feet deep so even in the best circumstances pulling it is not a productive option. It is not really about weed control at this point. We want to kill this grass and mulch the yard. I don't want them to install the new plants now in case the bermuda comes up around them, which means we'd either have to shield the plants with plastic and risk killing them when we spray more herbicide, or temporarily transplant them out while we kill the grass. As far as the landscaping company goes, we are waiting a few weeks to see how much of it we can get to grow back so we can spray it. The lawn has been flooded with liquid fertilizer and gets watered regularly, but so far there have only been a few green bits here and there. I really don't know how long we'll have to wait to see the majority start greening up again. I'm tempted to hire another company to consult.
...See More
Removed Overgrown Shrubs - Now What? Need Landscape Design Advice
Q
Comments (3)
I don't know what the ornamental grass is, but it looks like it might get larger than what the space calls for. If so, move it around the corner & enough away from the wall that it doesn't cause an issue. I would find a groundcover or shrub whose height is right or can be maintained right to go below the window. Place are mass of annuals near the stoop. The small tree would be better off the corner of building than in front of it. I would look at the large shrubs for possibilities of a small tree so that in the end, it didn't get too large, with low groundcover below it. A colorful perennial could wrap the building corner.
...See More
Turf removal rebate landscape plan
Q
Comments (10)
Sorry in advance for the stream of consciousness nature of this post. :) You don't seem to be getting lots of feedback on actual plants, so here are my thoughts, even though I'm a beginner to this native gardening thing. I've done a lot of research though! You might already know all this stuff, but in case you don't, here you go. And I felt like writing it. :) I just moved into a CA Native Garden house in coastal LA. Toyons seem to be good ones for growing tall and thin. In my yard, the Wax Myrtles were great, and staying narrow enough, until two of them were hit by a new form of Leaf Blight. So right now I'd stay away from Wax Myrtles (I'm in socal but the blight seems to be striking all over the nation). I didn't see where you said which direction your house faces - which areas get full sun will help determine what goes where. Also, what type of soil do you have - sandy or clay-y? If you have clay soil you really need to pay attention to which plants do well in it. My toyons are a little thin for a privacy screen, although they're nice and tall. Maybe they're just young, I don't know. I think some of the other native shrubs might be denser. Ceanothus have extremely small leaves, so they aren't going to be that dense for a loooong time. Design wise, if it were my house, I'd want a big showy plant at that front corner of your picket fence or all along the front sidewalk. Like a Ceonothus Concha (if you're in full sun with well draining soil) or a bunch of Western Redbuds (you can keep those trained to bush size if you don't want trees). Some of the bigger Salvias might be a nice screen for along the sidewalk there, without completely blocking your view of the street. Some of them get to about 5'. Are you going to use a ground cover in the front, or just have the rock garden take up most of the yard? If so, consider Ceanothus Yankee Point (Caramel Creeper) - stays about one foot tall, and one plant can supposedly cover a 10x10 area. Mine are currently about 5x10 each, and they're something less than 5 years old. Or native strawberry (Sand Strawberry) maybe. Here's a list of what seem to be "all star, go-to, most commonly known" CA natives, after my research and visits to Theodore Payne (but might be slanted toward socal): Margarita BOP Penstamon (bright green foliage with extremely showy spring foliage - purple/blue blooms) Toyon Ceanothus Ray Hartman (pay attention to which Ceanothus tolerate garden conditions - i.e., too much water and not enough sun). Ceanothus Concha Ceanothus Yankee Point Deer Grass. I don't like it but lots of people do. Be careful when planting so it doesn't look like hair plugs. It doesn't seem to spread and fill in much. Like hair plugs! :) Our Lord's Candle - Aloe type thing. Good for contrast in texture. Sticky Monkeyflower - there are also lots of cultivars with different colored flowers. Salvia Pozo Blue California Fuschia - the Catalina cultivar is 3' tall and beautiful - I have a huge stand of it that bloomed profusely from August through mid december. All the dog walkers wanted to know what it was when they passed by. Spreads by rizomes but doesn't go insane like Matilija Poppy does. Attracts hummingbirds. Well, "will attract A hummingbird" since they're territorial. My resident hummer chases away all comers, even though there is more nectar than he can drink. California Buckwheat (make sure you like the look of them when the blooms die though - they're too hard to deadhead and you don't have time for that anyway - they will take over the yard - I had to take mine out). Attracts a ton of bees and butterflies. Island Bush Poppy - Beautiful tidy largish shrub with cheerful poppy-like yellow flowers all year. It's foliage is a grey-green that tends toward sea foam/aqua on the new growth - just gorgeous. Mine is about 3 feet in diameter and 5 feet tall, and doing well in a part-sun area. The one in the shade wasn't flourishing. Island Snapdragon - green foliage, medium size perrenial. I've only seen a few blooms on mine, and I've heard people complaining that it is overrated. They seem to be survivors though. Lilac Verbena - lemon green lacy folilage with abundant purple flowers all year. White sage. This can grow quite large but smells so nice and is a nice contrast to the greener stuff. Large almost white leaves. Pt. Sal Spreader Sage. There is one at Theodore Payne that convinced me to try it - it has a nice 5' tall portion that kind of swoops into a swirl of ground cover. Whitish foliage, small almost white leaves. Manzanita: Howard McMinn is used alot down here in LA, but up there they might suggest a different one, idk. Manzana is a nice filler shrub that comes in all different shapes and sizes. Not showy. Western Redbud (beautiful pink buds/flowers in early spring, but big round bright green leaves the rest of the year - really doesn't look like a native to me - for a more "this is a green garden" look - might not contrast well with your dry creekbed). Encelia Californica - native daisy looking yellow composites. Coyote Bush is a nice well-behaved nondescript shrub with beautiful silver foliage and is native to your area. Coffeeberry is a nice low-maintenance, dark green shrub that works well as a foundation shrub. Mine is growing quite happily in almost full shade. Maybe under your bedroom windows in back, or against the house in front. Mine is about 3 feet tall and deep, 6 feet wide. That might be two grown togehter, not sure. If you like greener plants with flowers, Lavatera seems to grow well, very large, with flowers. Supposed to be short lived though. They like it in England! Bert at Las Pilitas Nursery also has a few lists of "good plants for Monterey area gardens with light colored houses and brown picket fences". Well, not exactly, but: http://www.laspilitas.com/blog/post--30--ten-easy-native-plants-for-the-bay-area. http://www.laspilitas.com/nature-of-california/native-plants-san-jose.html http://www.laspilitas.com/nature-of-california/native-plants-berkeley-oakland-hills.html Las Pilitas also has lists that aren't on the list of lists. By googling, I was able to bring up a list of "plants that like wet, sandy, sunny areas" for example. Up there you might want to use some Lupinus Arboreus - it comes in purple and yellow, and I think the yellow kind is native to you up there. Annie's Annuals carries it. The Lupines have a lacy soft textured foliage that I like. Throw a bunch of CA Poppy seeds or misc local wildflower mix around to fill in the gaps. A lot of people advise to plant things which are native to your area naturally, and they will grow better. There are lists around for those too. Also - I would advise this: Go on the different websites: Las Pilitas (the #1 best site for choosing plants), DWP (http://www.ladwp.cafriendlylandscaping.com/ is the Los Angeles version, but every county seems to have a very similar website made by the same company - look on there for the example gardens), Annie's Annuals, San Marcos Growers, Theodore Payne, etc., and just make a huge list of the plants you like, along with: light needs, water needs, soil type needs, whether it is winter or stress deciduous, how tall and wide it grows, and if you get freezes, Las Pilitas is good at noting whether each plant will tolerate freezing. Then, if you're like me, cross out all the deciduous ones. Life's too short and there are lots of evergreens. If you have clay soil, cross out those that won't tolerate it. You already have a pretty good design going - just slot the rest of the plants in where they fit based on light needs, soil and size, and where you think they'll look good together. Oh, another piece of advice they give: Your perrenials/trees/shrubs will look small and scrawny for at least a year. So plant annuals or short lived perrenials (poppies, clarkias, lupines, penstamons) in between them to fill in until the bigger plants mature. Also, before you do your project, what irrigation system will you be installing? In LA they apprently require drip tubing, which is pretty horrible. All the native nurseries recommend micro sprinklers of various types. So if that is allowed for your turf rebate, get those instead, even if they're more expensive. Might as well start with what works best in your area. For the big bed against your house at the back, maybe something like this, assuming it gets full sun: Row of Island Bush Poppy, coffeeberry or Salvia Pozo Blue against the house, with a row of taller penstamon ouside that (Penstamon Spectabolis (Showy penstamon) maybe), followed by a row of short penstamon (Penstamon Margarita BOP). I'm currently in love with Blue Witch, but it is poisonous and you have a kid, so skip that. Remember too: some plants will fail where they're planted, or you'll hate them - that's ok, it is allowed to pull them out and get different ones. :) I have to keep reminding myself of that so I don't overthink the whole thing. Doesn't have to be perfect the first time.
...See More
Need help removing grass from landscape bed
Q
Comments (15)
Well, it's not as entirely hopeless as all this sounds! If you want a planting around the tree I'd make the area larger, dig out all the grass and roots as you can, dig in some compost to improve the soil. plant it, give it a thick cover of mulch, and when Bermuda grass pops up give it a small spray of Ortho Grass b Gone. I don't like using "cides" of any kind, but since I have a mixed lawn of St. Augustine and Bermuda grass, which I didn't plant that way, but the Bermuda blows in, I have no choice. Grass b Gone doesn't harm broad leaved plants and kills Bermuda. It takes about a week for it to die, but die it does. I use G-b-G very sparingly, getting the nozzle close to the grass before spraying gently while holding my breath. After the bed is established I have very little problem with Bermuda infiltrating it. A brick, stone, or metal border and thick mulch helps keep it out.
...See More
KW PNW Z8
10 months ago
last modified: 10 months ago
My first thought was Hosta!!! There are over 6K varieties of hosta & that forum here is pretty busy! I have a bunch myself & love them. Not the bright colors you favor but many shades of blues, yellows, white & green. There are minis & giants. Then I thought they might take too long to wake up in spring & not sure about chipmunk damage. My second thought is Ferns. A tall fern in center surrounded by smaller ferns. So much texture & many shades of green. Cinnamon Fern is gorgeous - I had one in my last garden & it was over 3’ tall when we moved. Here’s a link to zone 4 ferns Zone 4 ferns Maybe tall ferns surrounded by mini hosta? Hosta does flower.
Little Bird
Original Author
10 months ago
Ah, yes - the previous owners did hostas, but alas, they were all eaten by rabbits. Apparently, they’re so delicious that the rabbits don’t mind climbing up the steps to feast on hostas! They planted probably 20+ hostas, and there are only 3 left now. The weird thing is, my next door neighbor has a long row of hostas going up their steps, and the rabbits completely leave them alone. Maybe it’s the variety? Or our house has provided such a buffet that they don’t bother going to the neighbors. But I’ll take a look at the ferns; thanks for the suggestion!
PRO
Flo Mangan
10 months ago
How about herbs. Rosemary can be in center and add various smaller things like sweet basil and thyme. The rosemary will fill beds eventually and is very hardy. Easy care once established too. You don’t really need color there. So might be a good option. Critters don’t like spiny things either!
PRO
Flo Mangan
10 months ago
Sone ideas.
KW PNW Z8
10 months ago
Though I like the idea of an herb garden - especially with that outdoor kitchen on patio - my experience is that most require a lot of sun. I’ve grown many of those in Flo’s list but always in sunny spots. Those darling little bunnies 😫. My neighbor has many plants with cages around them but they haven’t ventured into my yard yet.
Little Bird
Original Author
10 months ago
Great ideas, Flo! Herbs will smell nice too. I’ll see which ones can grow in the shade. Also good idea about spiny things. I remember seeing some plants, I forget what they’re called, but they have fuzzy leaves. That might be icky for rabbits to eat.
tgb1
10 months ago
I’ve been following along and your gardens are beautiful. Just want to mention that all of my hostas get ravaged by the bunnies, but this year I covered them with black netting that you can’t see from a distance. No more bunny damage and I get to enjoy my lovely hostas…
PRO
Flo Mangan
10 months ago
Rosemary grows anywhere! That’s what I would use as central plant. Mints grow anywhere. Lots of options. If you use hot peppers those would make those critters take notice! Little copper name plates would add interest too. Very fun.
KW PNW Z8
10 months ago
last modified: 10 months ago
I just read that Astilbe has a bad taste for rabbits!! That fuzzy plant you’re thinking of - Lamb’s ears I bet. And, it also deters rabbits because it’s in the mint family. Apparantly they don’t care for after dinner mints! The taller astilbe would be lovely in those planters surrounded by Lambs ears. Both are spreaders so would be nicely contained in the planters. Another lower grower to include for contrast is Lungwort. Terrible name I know but it blooms in shade & has interesting speckled leaves & different color flowers - pinks, blues. Perennial too Here’s a link

Lungwort
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
The pink hydrangea and roses planted last year are in full bloom! I added Miracid to a few of the pink hydrangeas, and you can already see it changing color. The little flowers in the center are turning blue and the petals are fuschia. I am excited to see how the blue and purple hydrangea that were just planted will look like next year.
The climbing rose seems like it put all its energy into one stem - 25 blooms on a single stem! I read that you’re supposed to lay the stem parallel to the ground in the spring for more flowers - does anyone know if I can still do that in July, or is too late in the season for them to harden off for winter in MN?
ShadyWillowFarm
9 months ago
Wow, just gorgeous!!!❤️❤️❤️
PRO
Flo Mangan
9 months ago
Amazing! You have the “hot pink” thumb!! Lol
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Flo, you know I love pink and purple!
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Any gardeners out there know if it’s ok to train roses in July by tipping over the main canes? Or is it too late in the season in MN?
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Any gardeners know how late in summer you can start to train climbing roses?
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
Hi Little Bird - checking in. Your blooms are beyond fantastic & your neighbors must love you for creating this beautiful area that they can see & enjoy. I looked at your pics when you posted & pondered your apparent success of planting shade lovers - the hydrangeas with sun lovers - the roses. I’m amazed at the result you’re achieving! My suggestion is that you create a new post with these pictures & your questions under the rose forums. Be sure to provide your location so the weather situation is understood. If you can name the rose cultivar you have, more the better. I don’t have roses but I have read about that thing of tipping over main canes to generate many more blooms. Something about a branch laying flat & sending new growth straight up.

On a personal note to you - I’m still going day to day with pup’s health issue. Her personality is still sparkling but eating is still a challenge. I do look for posts from my favorite friends so I’m reading & responding when I can and it’s a nice moment of calm for me.
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
KW, thank you for the update about your pup. It is so hard to see your pup struggling. The only advice I can give is to take lots of photos of her now, that you can look at forever.
Thank you for the tip about posting on rose forums - I never thought to do that! I guess because people here seem to know everything! You’re right though, that you’re not supposed to be able to plant roses and hydrangeas together because of their different sun needs. I think it only works because of the weird sun coverage there - due to the position of nearby trees, it alternates in an out of sun every couple of hours. Just enough light for the roses, but enough afternoon shade for the hydrangeas. A miracle! The ones I planted in the back that are shady all day with searing afternoon sun, though, are not doing well. I don’t think any plants like that combo.
My thoughts are with you and your pup, and also hoping your husband makes a full recovery too ❤️
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
Good Morning Little Bird! Your sun / shade coverage makes sense for how you’re able to acheive success with your combo. I’d add that info to your post too. I always hear roses need at least 6 hours of sun to succeed. Of course, that’s too much for hydrangeas.I follow a few of the old Garden Web discussion forums now found here on Houzz & the gardening folks regulars are a really nice bunch. Just like the decorating folks they want lots of info to provide good advice. If you look through all the topics, there may be one specifically for your geographic area in addition to the Roses forum. I follow the PNW & also the Hosta forums. I’ve learned lots from them.

My husband is I think fully recovered. He still doesn’t remember the moment of falling & can only remember back to the point of realizing he was in an ambulance. I think that’s just fine! We are so lucky it wasn’t so much worse. And, we’re the last people one would have expected that to happen to. I guess that’s why these things are called accidents!

Kathy
Hellogardener
9 months ago
Little Bird your progress is very impressive! Just stunning. Would love to see a new picture of the whole yard from the street
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Hello, Hellogardener! We did make a lot of progress this summer. I think the result actually looks pretty close to Celery’s mock-up. It’s all perennials, except for the begonias, so it should be very easy to take care of in the future. It’s hard to remove existing plants, because I hate to kill something that’s growing, but the tulips and lilies that were there only bloomed for 1 week, then looked awful for months. And I love that we have colorful blooms all summer long now. KW, you can see a little of the weird shade pattern from the irregularly shaped trees in front. It alternates sun/shade/sun/shade throughout the day, so the roses get their required number of sun hours, and the hydrangeas are protected from too much afternoon sun. I’m glad to hear that your husband has recovered from the fall!
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Beautiful view from the window! The Oso Easy roses stay in bloom for a really long time. But now that it’s hot out, the hydrangeas are drooping in the afternoons.
Does anyone have a suggestion for easy temporary shade? I’m thinking something like a lightweight umbrella with an extra long handle I can stab into the ground? I want to be able to pop it in just when it’s sunny, and easily take it away too.
PRO
Flo Mangan
9 months ago
So beautiful. Could you build a kind of tent with old Bermuda shutters? For shade.
PRO
Flo Mangan
9 months ago
Like these.
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Hi Flo! That is a very creative idea. I think that could work in places where I want a wider area of shade, but I have to figure out a way to just shade individual hydrangeas sprinkled among the roses, who do not need shade. I think the shutters would work on a flatter area, but the garden bed out front is very steep.
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
last modified: 9 months ago
Hi Little Bird, I have a couple of random thoughts on the shade for hydrangeas issue. We already know your combo of sun loving roses & filtered sun hydrangreas is unusual & the success you’ve enjoyed is due to your tree shading the hydrangeas. I’m thinking that you’re in the hottest summer days now so the hydrangeas, which are in their first year, are suffering from the heat bc they’re not really established plants yet. The plant rule I’ve learned is that when the hydrangeas are wilting the garden needs water. Not sure if that appies to your roses. The planting slope you have in that area increases the challenge with water draining away down hill So, my suggestion is to make sure the entire area is well mulched to shade roots & limit water evaporation. Find a way to give the hydrangeas extra water early in the day & if you see signs of wilt later in day, water them! If you can shape ’wells’ at the lower base of the hydrangeas to hold the water to their bases & allow it to soak in so much the better. A soaker hose wrapped mostly around the hydrangeas might be a labor saving & water saving device & work great too. The test will be to see if they do better in heat next year with a more established root structure.
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Well, KW, it turns out you were right! I do have irrigation in the garden beds, and the soil doesn’t feel dry. But I started doing a second watering in the afternoon, and within 30 minutes, the leaves perked back up! And it’s the new hydrangeas that are affected most, so maybe next year it will improve. Thanks again for the great advice!
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
Great! Nice to get it right sometimes 😉 More advice - now that you know it works water the hydrangeas before the time you noted they’re wilting in heat. They do perk up quickly but it’s really hard on the flowers & the plants to go through a daily wilt. I learned this from experience with Paniculata Hydrangeas in my yard. If you ever put in more hydrangeas, the Paniculata type tolerates much more sun. Their flowers are cone shaped like Lilacs. There’s a classic small one that’s much loved ”Bobo”. It has white flowers. I like Paniculata bc they’re easier to prune as they bloom on new wood so no worries about cutting off flower buds when pruning.
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Aw, Bobo sounds so cute!
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
KW, I think these white ones in the back might be a version of the panicula ones you’re talking about, except giant. These are in full shade, and are about 7 feet tall! They never need watering
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
Yep looks like it! So the nice thing with these is if they’re getting too large they can be cut back hard in early spring after frost done.
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
KW, do I need to be aware of where I’m cutting, like only do it on certain parts of the stem, or thinning down to just strong stems? Or can I just chop it all off much smaller next year?
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
Little Bird, you do have the right idea of thinning down to the strongest stems. It’s pretty easy to see them when the shrubs have no leaves. I first go through & cut off all the thin, spindly, going wrong direction stems right down to the main branch they are attached to. Then you can really see the shape & the oldest branches that really support the flowers without flopping. You can take them back a ways towards center if the plant needs to be shorter, less floppy, more space between the shrubs etc. A friend told me she does one major pruning then @ month later or after growth starting goes back for a light prune. She said it makes a longer bloom time because buds cut off with second light prune have to start over but they still have time to make flowers. You could try that on one of that row of them to test that out. I only have 2 & they’re different kinds & ages. I am always surprised at the larger, older one because I think I cut hard & way back & zoom it sprouts right back up!

On personal note - I was so focused on my issues that I didn’t ask about your pup when you said she’d had a concussion. Is she healed & ok now? That had to be a very scary situation. On my side things changed very quickly for my Ginger and we had to let her go a few days ago. She was just 10 & it was a congenital liver issue just discovered 5 months ago through abnormal blood values in a pre dental screening. We have been managing with protein restricted diet & couple meds but she went into a sudden decline & wasn’t eating much & had a couple episodes over a couple of days that indicated she was hurting. We thought we had a few years left with her so weren’t prepared for this. We did use an in home service & that vet had come to our home a few days before under a hospice situation. It was so helpful to not be meeting with a stranger for the final visit. Our hearts are broken and we’re struggling. Today I made some plans for us to go on a short trip later this month. This site is really a diversion for me - and reading - can’t believe how fast I’m going through books! We’re going with friends to an outdoor concert Sunday - 90 degrees is forecast! Keeping busy is a must. Apologies if this is all TMI but my feeling is you knew I’ve been “off the grid“ & that things were not well with my precious little friend and you would want to know. Give your pup a really big hug!
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Oh, KW, my heart is broken for you! I can’t imagine how difficult that must have been to find out something like that from a routine exam, and then to lose Ginger so quickly after. I know you had a lot of worries in the last few months with your husband’s accidental fall too, so I hope you are taking care of yourself. It sounds like you’re doing the best possible, with keeping yourself busy and entertained with lots of books. And all of us here are the beneficiaries of all the good advice you keep giving!
Thank you for thinking of my pup too, even with everything that’s going on for you. My Libby is back to normal. She is really tiny, so when a child dropped her from up high, her head hit the floor and she had a seizure. So now we are very careful to have people sit down on the floor before playing with her. We are very grateful that she didn’t have any lasting effects. Hugs to you, my friend! ❤️
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
last modified: 9 months ago
Thank you for all of your kind words Little Bird. July was indeed pretty rough. Several times today when I was missing something Ginger would’ve been doing in that moment, I realized that she really had slowed down over the past couple months. She was trying hard to be her usual perky & active self but losing energy. Realizing that helps us know we kept her from suffering unnecessary pain. That’s the most important thing to us. Such treasures they are & adding so much fun and love to our lives. We do owe them the best care which can be hard.

Your poor Libby. That’s such a danger for these small dogs and everyone always wants to hold them. That must’ve been horrifying when she was dropped. We never taught Ginger to jump up on furniture because we didn’t want her flying off & breaking a leg. Sounds silly for a breed that’s known for their agility & the courses they run. But she was only 4.4 lbs which is the smallest end of the breed size. We picked her up to put her on couch with us & when she wanted down she’d ask by pawing at the edge. She also let people know she didn’t want them to pick her up by backing away from them very very fast if they leaned toward her so I asked them not to as well. She just wanted back scratches from anyone who looked at her. Your practice of having people go to Libby’s level is great. A little hard for someone over 4’ tall since she’s so tiny but that’s not Libby’s problem! She probably feels more confident being on the floor so she can make her escape if she wants to. Go Libby!
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
KW, Libby wants to see your favorite photos of Ginger!
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Super cute! She looks so sweet. And she looks like she was very well loved ❤️
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
last modified: 9 months ago
Ginger was a true social butterfly & received so much attention from strangers when we were out & about who just had to stop us & comment on her beautiful flowing coat & then, upon receiving a happy hello from her, they’d remark on her happy demeanor. These are recent pics & looks like she was needing a coat brush out in both. I can now see more change in these pics compared to a year ago. That’s helpful to us. We have so many pics & videos as she was a great photo subject! That green mat was lent to me by a neighbor - it’s meant to be a food toy. It’s a ”Snuffle or Forager” mat to sprinkle dry kibble on that gets buried in the thick snuggly surface & the doggie noses & digs around looking for the buried treasure of food or treats. Ginger had several other treat / dry food dispensing toys that she loved to play with so neighbor thought this might encourage her to eat. It did for a short time but then turned in to yet another item on the floor to lay on! These food toys are great for dogs self entertainment & bring out their instinctual foraging traits. I highly recommend for any kind of doggie any age!
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
last modified: 9 months ago
LittleBird - Here’s my ’Little Limelight’ paniculata hydrangea - about 5 years in ground, supposed to be 3 x 3, currently 5 x 5+. Its flowers now turning to white from the limey green they open to. I pruned it hard this year & you sure couldn’t tell.

Here’s my ’Little Quick Fire’ paniculata Hydrangea planted last fall to replace a huge Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea we took out — too big. This should turn pink & is supposed to be smaller than little lime - more a Bobo size - we’ll see.

Here’s both of them - you can see the size difference for now. They are planted on a slope down from pavers & they face west so long hot afternoon sun. They do well with the drip irrigation but today is high 80’s & humid & the big one looks a little limpy in top leafs so I’m running the drips on a manual cycle right now especially in prep for the warmer couple days ahead. No leaf scorching on either shrub so far this year.
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
KW, your garden is so pretty! I wish you were my neighbor! The little limelight looks great - probably because you prunes them hard. I’ve noticed that plants I treat too preciously trying to save every bloom, actually end up worse off than the ones that I don’t care about and just chop down.
I think mine are also quick fire, and turn pink later in summer. But I am definitely not pruning correctly - look at how crazy they look.
PRO
Flo Mangan
9 months ago
Ginger -sooo adorable! As to those hydrangeas- love them! Trying one here but no blooms this year. Probably too hot. Maybe something will happen in the fall. I would love to cut off some of those branches and hammer the stems and put in large glass container for a whimsical look it a distinctive spot in your gorgeous home!
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
Little Bird, appreciate your kind words about my yard. I do like puttering around in it & it’s a nice set up for entertaining with the large paver patio. Here’s a better shot of my Little Limelight - I just really saw how the branches were drooping with weight of flowers so just stuck a bunch of tall flower stakes inside the shrub to prop them up. Now it looks perkier & more floriferous than the first pic I posted. I’m wondering if your taller hydrangeas would be less leggy & flower more next year if you do cut back hard after all danger of your hard frosts are past & then also really work some good fertilizer into soil around them.

Flo - I just don’t know about hydrangeas in the heat of TX. Are you in Houston area? I’ve read that Oakleaf Hydgrangeas do the best there & the Paniculata / PeeGee types second. Oakleafs look very different but great fall color from them. Way too hot for Mophead / Macrophylla I’ve read.
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Flo, that jar with the branches looks lovely. Question: what do you mean by “hammer the stems”?
PRO
Flo Mangan
9 months ago
With branches that are more substantial, you have to hammer the bottom 3-4” so they can take up water more easily and green leafs or blossoms stay fresher longer. 🔨
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
Flo - I did not know that about the thick branches! I learned something today!
Little Bird
Original Author
9 months ago
Wow, I never would have thought to hammer! Cool tip. Libby enjoying the garden while I deadhead…
KW PNW Z8
9 months ago
What a little doll Libby is! Oh, and yes, your garden is quite lovely too. 😊
floraluk2
9 months ago
last modified: 9 months ago
Do not hammer woody stems. It is no longer recommended. It destroys the vascular structure of stems, actually inhibiting water uptake, and increases the likelihood of bacterial infection. Do a diagonal cut with a clean tool and submerge the ends immediately in cold water. Or do the cut under water if possible.