Any gardeners out there? Topsoil/tomatoes/big pots?
3 years ago
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Ripped out my big boy tomatoes....
Comments (4)I'm sorry to hear that. I tried growing bb tomatoes last yr, w/ little luck. I've given up trying to grow them. It could be that the tomatoes were already diseaded w/ that when you brought them home from the greenhouse, nursery or wherever you bought them from. I won't buy veg plants from the box stores like HomeDepot, etc., as I think they don't care for the plants too well at those kind of stores. We have had a lot of rain storms here in PA, also this spring, right up thru June. I am kind of wondering how well a tom plant will do that I bought, also. My cherry toms are doing great in their little container, also are my patio toms in a container. You never know from yr to yr! Good luck w/ the new ones. I'd be interested in hearing how they do. I might put one more large tom plant in my veg garden if I see something this week....See MoreNew to Pot/Deck tomato gardening
Comments (12)slc_tomatoes I really admire anyone who manages to grow vegetables from an apartment! Let me suggest that you make life easy for yourself by purchasing or building a self-watering container for tomatoes. You don't say what kind you like, but I assume they'd be for eating. For one person, you'd probably do well to grow a cherry tomato and a big indeterminate tomato. Two plants, that's all. You might try a SunGold F1 tomato and a hybrid or open-pollinated/heirloom tomato if that suits your fancy this first time around. If you have definite likes and dislikes for tomatoes, go with that. If you want only big red tomatoes, there are lots of those. In fact, there are lots of any kind of tomato that strikes your fancy. It's getting late to start tomatoes from seeds but there are mail-order places and maybe even local places that can provide you with what you need in the way of plants. But first, decide on your container and the support system for your tomatoes. For tomatoes, the bigger the container, the better -- very few tomato plants are small....See Moretomatoes plant in the garden early or let grow in larger pots
Comments (32)Michelle, The book is great. At one point it was out of print and impossible to find and the used copies you could find online were considered rare books and priced accordingly (in the hundreds of dollars) It later was reprinted, and Dr. Cotner himself said that given how many pages the book was (around 400 I believe) and all the photos it contained, it was so expensive to print that he himself didn't blame the publisher for not wanting to put it back into production because it was very expensive to produce "nowadays". He also said at that time that it would be impossible to write/publish a book like that nowadays because of the cost, but you know, the demand for it was so high that additional printings did happen well after he said that. That was likely in the late 1990s or early 2000s when he said that, and I guess publishing costs had soared since it was first published. Kim, If I was gardening in place that was windy like that and it was a permanent place where I was going to be long-term, I'd plant a windbreak around the garden, but 15-20' from the garden so it didn't shade out too much of the garden ground. Windbreaks can be lifesavers when gardening on flat, windy land. If it wasn't a permanent place where investing in lots of large evergreen shrubs or trees was possible, I'd grow a triple row, densely planted, of some sort of large annual plant that would at least provide some windbreak....maybe some of the tall grain-type amaranths (harvest the flowers before they go to seed or you'll have 1,000,001 amaranth plants each year forever after), or some of the more densely-branched tall sunflowers or a thick, dense planting of field corn (its stalks are sturdier than sweet corn), ornamental corn or sorghum. I have used broom corn interpanted with hyacinth beans as a wind break by my yard is somewhat sheltered by woodland on three sides, so the 12' tall broom corn stalks didn't break. Because they get so tall, I do not know if they would work in your windier area. I think the wind might break the stalks or cause them to lodge. If the two of you do not read the local Texas gardening magazines (Neil Sperry's "Gardens" (now only available, I believe, as a digital online publication) at his website, and "Texas Gardener" (believe it is based in central TX but covers the whole state), I recommend them highly. Texas Gardener has a stronger focus on veggies, but does cover other topics as well, and everything Neil Sperry writes and publishes is pure gold for Texas gardeners. The last time I bought a new copy of Dr. Cotner's "The Vegetable Book", I purchased it directly from Texas Gardener Press, one of my favorite sources for books about gardening in this region. Here's a link to their book page: Bookstore at Texas Gardener Press I am out in the garden for a large portion of every day that the weather allows it at this time of the year. Once the real heat sets in and the temperatures are in the 90s and above every day, I spend much less time out there, mostly only harvesting fruits, veggies and herbs, watering, or cutting flowers for bouquets. By then I hopefully have enough mulch on the beds that weeding is not need as often, because you're not going to find me outside weeding once it gets really hot. I do try to keep the garden well-weeded through at least the end of June. After that, when we mow weekly, I dump more grass clipping mulch on top of the existing mulch and that's about it. If we get a rare, cool and maybe misty or drizzly day in the middle of the summer, I'm out in the garden in a heartbeat weeding. We had a great garden year in 2012 and I had tons of tomato plants. Know what that meant? It meant I could spend up to 8 to 10 hours a day in June and July mostly just harvesting. I blame the Principe' Borghese tomatoes for that harvesting fiasco. I had a lot of them that year (for sun-dried tomatoes) and could spend a whole day just harvesting those 12 plants because each one would have hundreds of bite-sized tomatoes ripe and ready to pick and dry. I've stopped growing it now because that was just too much time spent harvesting small tomatoes and also have cut back on how many cherry tomato plants I grow for exactly the same reason. If I ever grow Principe Borghese again, I'll just pull up the plants by their roots when they are heavily loaded with ripe tomatoes and hang them in the garage to dry. (This can work well in a dry climate in a dry summer, but in a more humid year, the tomatoes may rot before they dry.) I had my fill that summer of slaving away in the garden, harvesting all day in 90-100+ degree weather. I'm trying to garden smarter, not harder, these days because I'm not getting any younger and spending all day every day out in the summer heat no longer is an option for me. Evern since the summer of 2011, when I got a mild case of heat exhaustion at least 3 separate times when we were out on fires in 112-116 degree heat, I just cannot tolerate the heat like I once could, and I have to be really careful in the summer because of that. Planting tomatoes as early as possible helps because I'd rather be harvesting and canning the main tomato crop in May and June than in June and July. There's plenty to harvest as it is in the summer months, so getting most of the tomatoes done early means fewer hours out in the hot sun. I also bought a beach-type sun umbrella a few years ago and will carry it out to the garden and stick it in the soil and work in its shade. This works better if I am doing something that keeps me in a relatively small area for a while rather than moving around every 5 minutes. If y'all have too much summer wind, this might not work for you if the wind keeps blowing the umbrella away. Dawn...See MorePotting mix revisited - are there any good big box store selections??
Comments (30)"(I don't know what this "wetting agent" might be; I thought it was probably polymer gel but they list both the wetting agent AND polymer gel for their #7 mix, so apparently not!)" The "wetting agent" is just a surfactant that allows the peat to soak up water more easily--rather than to repel it like dry peat does so very well! For all practical purposes, it SOAP! When Zach posted that he got a bale of pure peat and talked about how hydrophobic it is, I almost posted (but the Nasty, NASTY has been preventing me from reading so I've just been x'ing out when it appears most of the time!) that all the peat-based soils/mixes must have a surfactant in them, because even when they dry out ALL the way, they're quite easy to re-wet to make them "usable" again. Without a surfactant they'd take hours and hours to moisten well enough to be able to use them! Polymer, in my opinion, is entirely unnecessary for growing things in pots or in beds that are regularly watered and taken care of. When I was getting started buying the seedling trees that are being planted on the mesa top just south of Mesa Verde I thoroughly researched the stuff, and I found comments by people who were putting it in their "hanging baskets," and "when they watered their plants the soil was all falling out of the top of the basket!" Polymer E-X-P-A-N-D-S! I did buy some to be used where the seedling trees are being planted--in a situation where they get maybe a gallon of water when they're planted, and then they're 100% on their own, but to be using the stuff in an urban garden makes no sense whatsoever to me! When I bought it the first time I wanted to see "what I had," so I put a level teaspoon of the dry polymer in a water glass and filled the glass half up with water. After an hour all the water was GONE! I wanted to see if it would soak up more, so I added more water! Hour later the water was GONE! I dumped what I had in a clean (regular size) peanut butter jar and added more water! Kept adding water till it was up to the top and left it sit! I wound up with a jar filed up to the top with "expanded" polymer---from ONE LEVEL TEASPOON OF DRY POLYMER! The stuff is intended to be used in situations where plants will not be able to be watered, where they need "the extra stored water" for when there's no precip. And, clearly, the people who were using the stuff in hanging baskets and "small" pots didn't have a clue what they were doing and hadn't taken the time to figure it out! My guess is they were taking a half a cup or a cup of the stuff and mixing it into the soil in their 8-10" pots--and then they were wondering why the soil was all falling out of the top of the pots when it started to expand! Virtually everybody with an "urban" garden waters--except for those who plant true xeric gardens, and polymer in the soil would kill xeric plants real quick! For me, if I had polymer in my "potting soil" I'm sure I'd promptly rot off all the plants--the same as I do with vermiculite--and vermiculite holds far less water than polymer does. As I see it, polymer is a Buzz Word these days, so the companies put it in the mixes and sell it for twice as much as the stuff without it--and since "everybody knows how good polymer is" everybody falls for the "Pintrest Wisdom" and pays for it! "Good" is relative! What's good for something can be very, very bad for something else! Having said all that...... Try whatever you think might work for you and see if it does work or not. If it works, keep on keepin' on! If it doesn't, try something different! If you try something with polymer, or add polymer to something, remember! One Level Teaspoon absorbs enough water to fill up, to the top, a 16 ounce peanut butter jar! It may have soaked up even more water, but I never took the time to put it in something bigger to find out! Mycorrhizae! Some of the sunshine mixes have mycorrhizae these days too! And ProMix (the stuff my brother uses), like Sunshine, comes in ALL different mixes. Mycorrhizae is something else you don't need for growing things in your Urban Garden! This came up on B2's "evergreen tree garden" thread last year, and there's a whole buncha links about the stuff on that thread if you want to read more. http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3117113/my-evergreen-tree-garden-2011-2015?n=9 Sunshine #4 must be the one they had out when I saw the pallets of it out front that one time--that cost more than #1--and I couldn't figure out why! Still don't know why! It sure looks to be the same as #1 to me! I buy "the cheaper" #1!!! And I prefer to stay out of the "organic" brouhaha! As far as Sunshine #1 goes, the Canadian peat is organic, the perlite is organic, and the dolomitic limestone is organic! That's 99.9% of what's in the bale, and that's good enough for me! Skybird...See More- 3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoAnnegriet thanked carolb_w_fl_coastal_9/10
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