Check with a local custom metal fabricator to produce custom longer legs to screw into it and get it taller. You’ll need to present him with one as an example, and indicate the amount of height adjustability that you want. But now you will need to examine the reduced clearances to combustibles for the upper cabinets and hood. All of these fire safety clearances around ranges are interrelated. You can’t raise up the range if the uppers and hood height are based on the traditional 36” finished counter height. Thermador ranges are powerful, and there are many reports of scorched quartz or cabinets from improper clearances. If you have the required stainless back guard, you probably won’t have to rebuild the rear wall with metal studs and cement board, but you almost certainly will need to raise the uppers to comply with the extra 2” of range height. If it’s a wood hood, Thermador requires even more clearance than the standard fire code. This is a mess. What solution has your Kitchen Designer offered? What about your General Contractor? He is supposed to know fire codes as well as the KD. They should be putting their heads together to solve this in a safe manner. Or, taking another look at your profile, are you the designer who messed up reading the specs here?

What type of build is the home (tract/developer, custom, semi-custom)? If a tract type home, he his partially correct in the fact that cosmetic may not be a successful fight. As far a the hole in the grout, if waterproofing correctly that should not make a difference performance wise. Do you know what or how the shower was constructed?

It‘s hard to tell because its so dark but they look like they might be metal baffles for eave vents. if you go outside your house and look up at the underside of your eaves and see screens that is probably it. it looks like there is room on the side of the middle one to put a hole in through the top plate for your cable.

Pines grow candles, but junipers don't. After looking at the image more closely, it appears there is some potential that, if the plant was moved from a low light site to full sun after buds opened, the new growth might have suffered from sunburn (photo-oxidation). If this is true, it offers good reason to be hopeful. Can you confirm or disaffirm whether the plant was moved from low light to full sun after buds opened? No need to be doing any pruning yet. I'd let the tree sort things out. Your main job is to avoid over-watering - no sense in trading sunburn for root rot. When the volume of foliage is reduced, plants will use less water. It might be helpful to monitor moisture levels by using a 'tell'. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al