What options do I have for designing a kitchen besides an architect?
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Two kitchen options in mcm...what do you think?
Comments (34)Oh! The toekick! Yes, that's cool. Sorry I misread that! Mirror is so MCM my head just took me there. No, no, NO! Bad architect! Very naughty! The fridge goes as in the floorplan, across from the prep sink. This is function. Function trumps looks. The looks will be spectacular either way. Function won't. And yes, it shouldn't be a big deal to move the hookups. A small price to pay for correcting this. At least the number of stools is more accurate. :) The aisle widths are still wrong in the new drawing, and the reason things stick out is that he added 8" overall to the measures. The built-ins will be 25" from the wall, and that's not marked for sure, but it looks like he has 4'8" for the work aisle (too big) and island, and he has an extra 2" on the credenza. It probably doesn't matter if the credenza overlaps the side light, except that it bothers you. There's even an argument to be made for breaking up the grid. But, since the point of the credenza is to delineate the kitchen, having it break into the neighboring space, besides bothering you, is counter productive. You also need a little more margin on either side of the cooktop and sink. 8" minimum, 12" better, 15"-18" best but would probably screw up the rest of the design. Is that a Jenn-Air with integrated downdraft cooktop? Are you sure you want to go this way? I know you don't cook, but you said you wanted to, eventually. With the house shut up tight most of the year, it could get pretty awful without a good vent and cooled make-up air. If you're content with downdraft, please consider getting one of the pop-up ones that go behind the cooktop. That will not only do a better job, it'll be a shield for the little ones you were concerned about. I did a Google search for whitewashed cabinets and all of the pictures were either French Provincial or ugly pickled. Egads!!! As to whether they'd be too light, that's up to your taste. I just like the positive/negative, light/dark, apposition in this design and think it would be great if carried through to the cabinet fronts. It's not like it wouldn't look good in all walnut. I will say, however, that I find dark interiors in Phoenix to be very unsettling. They're fine in New York, but in the Southwest they're just...dark. I love the idea of the dark accent of your walnut, and the quantity will be fine either way, but I don't think it can be too light. :)...See MoreDo i need an architect or a designer?
Comments (5)I suggest you think about your needs in terms of the competencies required for the design task rather than the job title(s). 1.) You need someone to help translate your lifestyle needs into a liveable floor plan, 2.) you'll need someone with enough structural background to ensure the plan can be implemented without it becoming a major civil engineering project, and 3.) you'll need someone who can help assess the cost early in the design phase to ensure it can be realized within your budget. I've worked with both architects and designers who brought high level competencies 1.) and 2.) to projects as well as some who brought neither. With regard to assessing cost, you'll be well served to pay a remodeler to develop a line-item estimate of materials and trade labor for any portions of the construction you will not be doing yourself. Best wishes for a successful project....See MoreDo I need an architect or designer ?
Comments (8)Oh, I've been involved in 10K kitchen remodels. Small ones though. Stock off the shelf crapinets, 2K. Laminate counters fabricated to fit, 1K. Apartment grade appliances, 2.5K. Vinyl floors $500. Sink, faucet, disposal, $600. New replacement center light fixture, $100. New DIY paint, $100. No electrical at all. Just the plumbing reconnects to the crappy old drains and shut off valves, because penny wise and pound foolish. And 4K worth of licensed, insured, and background checked contractor labor, from someone that you'd actually want to allow in your home, to demo all of the old, legally dispose of it, and install the fresh new in the apartment....See MoreI think we made a big kitchen design error and I'm just beside myself
Comments (22)A rectangular trestle table (with slightly rounded, non-pointed corners if you can find it with these), ideally with at least 1 or 2 leaves, will seat more people than a table with legs on the corners. Who will be sitting at the table on a daily basis, and as visitors? If you will be buying a table of reasonably decent quality to keep for the long run, and will have people older than little kids sitting at it, at least 4 chairs would be a minimum, and 6 would be better--if there is some place else in the house where the extras could be used or stored until needed. When my daughter was first married, she bought a table with 4 chairs due to their under 1000 sq' house and kitchen-eating area smaller than yours. When they wanted to entertain, which often was a total of 6 adults, 2 people had to sit on folding chairs and be relatively uncomfortable, although she could have put 2 more "good" chairs into the small space if she'd had them long enough to enjoy the meal and conversation. For years, I had an 8 x 12' dining room with the long side open to the living room. Because a 6 x 10' rug defined the dining space and therefore the location of the table, there was actually about 9' in width. I routinely had 8 people (7' long table including 2 leaves) seated. Crowded? A little, but doable. How busy will the walkway at the "bottom" of the kitchen be--what does it connect? If it's not super busy, could you shift the left wall of cabinets and the island 3 to 6" into the walkway to get more space in the eating area? Anne...See More- last yearlast modified: last year
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