If you used a potting soil with fertilizer in it, do you really need to add more now? Do the leaves show signs of lacking fertilizer? Out of several hundred, 2 of mine have pale yellowish leaves and all the rest look fine and healthy. I dosed those two today with a balanced fertilizer. Learn to look at your plants and see what they are telling you. Don't buy into the hype over fertilizers. I only fertilize mine when I plant them out in the garden by mixing alfalfa pellets, compost and organic tomato fertilizer into the soil I plant them into. Mostly depends on the brand of potting mix you use and what is in it.

MOO is quite easy to look after in my opinion and they reward you with flowers all through the year. I have quite a few of them now, thanks to all the cuttings I took early winter. They don't seem to be picky when it comes to soil, water or humidity- and my apt is bone dry in the winters yet they continue to chug along. For now, keeping it by a sunny window should be good- as long as your windows are not like mine and unbearably drafty. If yours is a bit drafty as well, you may consider not keeping the MOO right by the glass, maybe keep it a few feet away. I would try to keep the minimum temp above 60-65 since they are tropicals. You can transplant now or later- I don't think it will make much of a difference if you want to do it now. I use ordinary commercial potting soil- the same one I use for most of my tropicals- Fafard. I find it is slightly less dense than other brands which is why I like it. But, I really don't think the MOO is going to be too picky. Just water when the top inch feels dry- and that is good enough. Only thing Ive seen is that they don't respond very well to fertilizing. That is, they perform just as well w/o any. I've never seen a difference in their flowering or growing performance after feeding them. I read somewhere that they like to be a bit on the 'underfed' side but I'm not sure if this is accurate information. From experience, I would have to agree. Hope they gift you with those heavenly flowers really soon!

I leave mine in the same pots during the first Fall to get as much growth, for as long as they're alive growing and until they decide to dormant or freeze. Then if they're not too crowded, I leave them grow in the same pots a second full year; then set out. Since you had good luck with your seeds and they're over crowded--as happens sometimes, then setting out next spring is your best option. If your pots have good drainage you can bury the pots in the same garden with the rest of your liles,cover with about an inch of dirt and mulch a little with coarse straw preferrably after the ground freezes if it does in your area. Overwintering in an unheated attached garage is OK too, provided you put the smaller pots in a larger pot and cover with an inch or so with soil to keep them from drying out completely so check in mid january and water lighty if needed. I cross pollenate and seed lilies as a hobby. If you are interested in learning more about lily seeding or just lilies in general check out www.allthingsplants.com click forums in the heading, then scroll down to the second section titled 'plants' where you'll see lilies listed. There's a bunch of very good lily seeders in there.

Long distance diagnosis is not terribly reliable, but the most likely cause of the problem is that the rootball has dried out. This can happen when they soil in the new location is substantially different from the area the plant came from. It can also happen for no readily apparent reason. Carefully remove some of the soil and see if the rootball feels dry. If it does, dig up the azalea and soak for 30 minutes or so. Make sure the planting area contains 25 to 50% organic matter, then replant. When you water, run just a trickle at the base of the plant instead of wetting the entire area.