Bev et al? Me AGAIN. Lamp type/height? Confused.
Abby Marshall
2 months ago
last modified: 2 months ago
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Landscape Design Forum FAQ - Improved
Comments (7)While I think that the "FAQ" as outlined by swanoir was presented tongue in cheek ('the humus'), many of the subsequent comments and/or links to threads that could/should be included in a FAQ were presented in a more serious tone. And maybe they do make sense as a foundation to a real LD forum FAQ. But I've also sensed something else in these comments that may contribute to the apparent lack of communication between new posters seeking advice and those that regularly frequent this forum and offer it. And that is that the long checklist provided by Miss R must be (or should be) answered in detail before posting. Well, of course not! But it is definitely something worth reviewing and giving some thought to. This checklist, or something very similar, is what most designers utilize when first meeting with a prospective client. It gives them a feeling for what the client wants to do with the property, how they intend to use it, what they hope to get out of it and how much effort (time/$$) are they are intending to put into it. Hopefully, reviewing an outline or checklist such as this could help to refine and focus some of those blank slate questions and even educate those new posters totally unfamiliar with the process the degree of complexity, the number of variables and exactly what is involved in the formulation of a landscape design. Even DIY landscape texts intended for the homeowner with no previous design or landscaping experience offer similar checklists to get one started thinking about the process. Obviously, this is overkill for those questions that are more issue-specific, but I think very appropriate for those that are much broader and far less focused....See MoreTell me more... different types of Dendrobiums
Comments (25)They can be like a member of the opposite sex (If you are a Republican, any sex if a Democrat). Attractive, but don't let them rule your life, they can become addicting. I must admit that I am somewhat addicted to native Au Dendrobiums which are hard to come by in the US. Good ones that is. The best you can get in the line of Kingianums for example is 'Pink' or 'red' and that's as far as the description often goes. Like anything else there are awarded ones with fantastic colors available in Australia, same with Delicatums. Most of my friends in my Orchid Society know that a D Delicatum is a cross between a D speciosum and a D kingianum but that's as far as it goes. Obviously a Deli with D speciosum 'Daylight Moon' FCC and D kingianum 'Black Beauty' for parents has a better chance of being an outstanding plant. These are two famous Aussie clones. For the benefit of the US readers let me dispel the belief that these plants are difficult to come by. Just like ordering plants from any American vendor, you can fill your shopping cart at Australian vendors like Australian Native Orchids, Cedarvale or Down Under Native Orchids to name just three, pay for it with Pay Pal or credit card and expect the plants at your doorsteps within 10 days. They take care of all the import paper work. Good sized seedlings are no more than $10.00 add 10% to 20% for transportation and bingo you have 'PRIME' Au Dendrobiums. Very few of my orchid friends know how easy and painless it is. I just unpacked 17 good sized seedlings with primo parents from ANO, average cost per plant, including transportation, was $11. What I like about ANO is that they have good photos of the plants on their web page so even if you only have a superficial knowledge about these plants, at least pictures give you an idea what you are getting. Give it a try. Nick...See MoreSt. Augustine Height
Comments (27)Bruce, Have you ever used compost recently? you can't expect quick result from soybean meal. It might take 3 weeks for it to work and it won't be dramatic green up like you'd get from synthetic fertilizer. The point of organic lawn program is to improve soil (nutrient cycling), more disease resistant, keep harmful insects under control and it goes on. You just have to be patient. It could take several years to get to the optimal level. Synthetic pre-em can disrupt nutrient cycling by killing protozoa and nematodes. They act like fertilizer spreader by eating bacteria and fungi releasing nitrogen and other nutrients. You might have to spread good quality of compost at the rate of 1 cubic yard per 1000 sqft to re-introduce fungi, nematodes, protozoa and bacteria into the soil to get the ball rolling. Basically light dusting on the lawn and just water them in. All you have to do is apply soybean meal at the rate of 15-20lbs per 1000 sqft every 3 months to keep feeding the microbes in the soil to continue and improve the soil. Soybean meal is fungi meal. It has good amount of protein that will be used to fertilize lawn, trees, etc. Synthetic fertilizer has salts that can ruin microbes in the soil. it's like pouring salt on snail. The spray application I came up with will greatly help for the first few years to improve nutrient cycling. They are food for microbes in the soil. Molasses is basically food for bacteria. Fish hydrolysate and Seaweed liquid are fungi food. I think the biggest problem is that we lack enough fungi in the soil. it is very easy to grow large bacterial population in the soil but not fungi. It just takes time. Over time, you will notice that you will water significantly less frequently because of larger fungi population. They are like sponge with all the holes in the ground. They will be able to absorb more water and hold them longer rather than letting them drain away. I've routinely gone 10-14 days before I've had to water again during the summer if there's no rain. And that's on rocky soil. I can imagine that I'd go 2-3 weeks easily if I had lived on clay based topsoil since they hold more water. A book called 'Teaming with Microbes' by Jeff Lowenfels is a good book to learn about organic practice. It's just not for lawn but how to maintain trees, garden, etc. They have different needs....See MoreHigh-Output T5 Confusion
Comments (36)An interesting find related to our discussion here: "A key part of our research involved the determination of which light frequencies or wavelengths would produce superior plant growth results." http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6921182/description.html Since LED's represent a relatively narrow band of light, as opposed to HID's or Fluoro's, the researcher's used these lights for accuracy purposes. Prior research that they found gave a broad suggested range within bands 620-680, or 700-760 nm (red) and 400-500 nm (blue). After a year and a half of research, they settled on three more specific light wavelengths that produced the best plant growth results. "660 nanometers (nm) is the wavelength that drives the engine of the photosynthetic process. The 680 nm wavelength is perhaps closer to the peak absorption wavelength of one of the two chlorophylls found in higher plants. However, at 680 nm you miss completely the absorption curve of the second chlorophyll, and furthermore the output curve of a 680 nm LED has a fair amount of light output above 700 nm, which is known to cause unwanted morphological changes to plants. LEDs of 680 nm output are also rare in the marketplace, making them relatively expensive. Our choice of a 660 nm first wavelength component is a compromise wavelength commonly used in plant growing research, which supplies energy to both types of chlorophyll without emitting enough light above 700 nm to adversely affect plant growth. The 620 nm LEDs used in the aforesaid Ignatius et al. patents, are meant to provide the light energy for photosynthesis, but a look at the absorption spectrum for the two chlorophylls shows that this wavelength falls almost entirely outside the absorption curve for chlorophyll. Our research showed better results using LEDs of 660 nm and 612 nm rather than the wavelengths of 620 nm and 680 nm. Beneficially, LEDs of 660 nm are also readily available in the market, and are very inexpensive. Our second 612 nm wavelength component was selected not to promote photosynthesis, but to match one of the peaks of the carotenoids. As noted in "Influence of UV-B irradiation on the carotenoid content of Vitis vinifera tissues," C. C. Steel and M. Keller (http://bst.portlandpress.com/bst/028/0883/bst028883.htm), "carotenoid synthesis . . . is dependent upon the wavelength of visible light, and is diminished under yellow and red filters." By providing the orange 612 nm light, we not only promote creation of carotenoids, which are required for plant health, but also add a little to photosynthesis, since the carotenoids pass their absorbed energy to chlorophyll. Carotenoids are required for plant health due to their ability to absorb destructive free radicals, both from solar damage and from chlorophyll production, whose precursors will damage plant tissue in the absence of the carotenoids. During research we found that, beneficially, test plants turned a deeper green, i.e. produced more chlorophyll, with the addition of our 612 nm light component. This ability to increase a plant's chlorophyll content with this specific light wavelength is an important aspect of our invention. Blue light of about 465 nm, this wavelength being non-critical, is strongly absorbed by most of the plant pigments, but is preferably included as the third component in our lamp to support proper photomorphogenesis, or plant development. Any LED near this wavelength will work as well, but the 470 nm LEDs are commonly available and less expensive than many other blue LEDs. Regarding the proper proportion for each wavelength, it is known, from independent laboratory research, that a blue/red proportion of 6-8% blue to red is optimal. In sunlight the blue/red light proportion is about 30%, but this is not required by plants. More than 8% blue light provides no additional benefit, but adds to the cost of the device since blue LEDs are among the most expensive to manufacture. In our device we include about 8% blue light, which is near optimal for plant development while offering the greatest cost savings. Our research showed that best results were obtained when the output of the 612 nm orange LEDs in our device was added to the output of the 660 nm red LEDs when calculating our most desired blue/red proportion."...See MoreAbby Marshall
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoAbby Marshall
2 months agoAbby Marshall
2 months ago
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