No bank will give you a loan to invest in a property that you do not own. You would have no collateral in the building to offer them. You could use an existing property that you own outright as collateral, they might accept that, maybe, but why would you invest your money into something that you could lose? If you were renovating to start a business, that would be different. Retail leases are written differently and a bank may lend you money as a business loan, to rehab a place if you have a good track record of starting and maintaining a profitable business. I've seen a lot of restaurants open this way. Even if you had a signed 99 year lease @ $1/year you still could possibley lose your lease, and hence all the time and money you put into it. I've seen it happen. You also have to consider liability and insurance if you are renovating a place you do not own. What if one of your rehab projects causes structural damage to the building? Or there is a burst water pipe? Or if there is a fire because you left hot wires exposed during demo. Old building often have had many, many alterations to them and there are no blueprints indicating where things are behind the walls. Are you going to be doing all the work yourself or is some of it going to be contracted? What if a worker should get injured on the job? Who would be responsible, you who contracted for the work, or the owner of the building? What if you hurt yourself by falling through a floor or something? Are you going to hold the owners responsible for a rotted wood floor or are you covered for any mishaps that happen? There is a LOT to consider before jumping into this.

Note that when you say you want to add, you mean you want to have an electrician come in and add. Most places will not allow DIY work in commercial space. The number of duplex receptacles isn't the limiting factor; it's the loads that are plugged into them. In your example (cord and plug connected luminaires), you will compute what the load is and make sure it does not exceed 80% of the circuit. In your case, this is roughly 20A*115V*80% or 1840 watts of lighting. That's the NEC; your local code may overrule that.

So, I like wood. And I sympathize with looking for the needle-in-the-haystack property that meets an eclectic set of family needs! I personally don't think the brick is attractive, but if there were other things about the house that I liked, I could live with it. I agree that landscaping can do a LOT to how a house sits and appeals, and right now this house doesn't really have anything around it. As far as the inside goes, you might look at some of Sarah Richardson's work; she's done a lot of painting over exactly the kind of wood ceilings you're looking at and makes beautiful rooms. My concern, though, is that the kitchen looks like it has a really terrible layout, with what looks like a cooktop in the corner, with almost no counter space between the cooktop and sink? Changing that appliance layout is going to mean changing cabinets, and those are unique cabinets that would be tough to match...Putting up with cabinets or painting them is one thing, but a kitchen gut and redo is going to eat your whole budget very quickly. Are the bathrooms in need of serious updates, too? Our area is on the expensive side for labour, etc, but even with my husband the carpenter doing a LOT of the work, new fixtures, countertops, vanities, and tile easily came to $10K per bathroom, and kitchen cabinets alone were $30K (IKEA would be less than that, and I don't know what size this kitchen is). Say $8-10K for new appliances, $80-100 per square foot of quartz or granite counters (so $200 per lineal foot of counter--we ended up going with wood to keep costs down)...painting our whole house (2400 square feet) was more than $10K too. You can see how it all adds up, even without including labour costs! Obviously a lot depends on the type of finishes you want, though. I agree that there has to be something about the house that you feel you can live with comfortably if all of this takes a long time. If your heart is going to sink every time you turn into the driveway, think hard about whether to go ahead. Not an easy decision!

Shall we assume you mean epoxy? Or are you referring to the "general" category of "resin" flooring options which include epoxy, polyurethane and MMA? Do you have a preference? Do you have wear characteristics that you MUST have? Do you have COLOUR options or life-span requirements that your floor MUST achieve? Concrete finishes can be cost effective, but for the TOUGHEST floors they will be in the higher range. The "fast and easy" options will have the most amount of maintenance and the highest level of "complaints" regarding look and longevity. We will need to know so much more about your project before adding a "pros" and "cons" section.