I devoured this thread for months and finally went to Lowe's to look at these planks. When I first looked at them in the store I thought they looked so fake and cheesy that I almost gave up, but I brought a few home and set them on the floor. They looked good! It seems that most people have good results as long as they follow the directions really carefully and don't use professionals to install the floor. It also seems that the trouble comes when the climate is really hot or humid. But, just to make sure that we weren't the unlucky ones, I installed it in my entryway first to see how it would hold up on our concrete slab. I pulled up sheet vinyl and scraped off the remaining mastic, used the Henry's and it went down and stayed. I am a dog walker/pet sitter and we board dogs, all different kind of dogs, at our house and we needed something durable and easy to clean and this has fit the bill. I installed it in our entire downstairs myself. Everyone loves it and thinks it's either wood or laminate and several neighbors want to put it in themselves. I've noticed vinyl flooring everywhere now, including high end stores. Thanks to everyone for recommending this flooring and for the terrific tips. Here are a few of my own: 1) Definitely prep, prep, prep the floor. I scraped up mastic and glue from the carpet pad. I didn't use adhesive remover because one site I saw said it may soak into the concrete and interfere with adherence. The key is clean, dry and smooth. 2) The instructions on the box and the Novalis website recommend the self-stick tile primer. It is a must - it goes on really thin and dries clear in about half an hour. 3) Take your time when laying the tiles and get them as tight and straight as you can. 4) I found some walnut wood filler that I used in some of the tricky spots and it worked great. 5) Definitely let the planks sit in your house for 48 hours before installation. 6) I ordered OOPS! Painters wipes which Novalis recommends to remove excess adhesive. They also recommend them to remove the white "scratches" which Novalis calls scuff marks. I found that the wipes didn't work on the scuff marks, but time does. They eventually wear away. 7) I didn't use a rolling pin, but did baby steps on the tiles once they were down. There are a few that I missed and they sound funny. I have not had any scratches from dog's nails, but we did have some from broken dishes. It's not as noisy as laminate, but it is hard - almost like walking on concrete. I love this flooring and am so glad to have put it in. I am a middle aged woman and did it by myself. I took my time and did one section at a time and it came out great! Here is a link that might be useful:

No i do not work for or sell flooring. I am just a homeowner trying to make an informed decision :). Our wood floors recently sustained water damage. We need to redo all our flooring. Lux Vinyl Plank seems like a good option for ease of maintenance and durability. The only brand that I care for aesthically is from the company Naturally Aged Flooring, which actually specializes in wood floors. I’m looking for some feedback from individuals who have installed this product. I can’t find any reviews online from this particular company.

If you haven’t already done so, Google—SPC versus WPC and read about the differences. SPC is more stable than the WPC, and as you mentioned, the SPC can withstand temperature variables and sun better than the WPC. If you get an SPC with an attached pad, I don’t think you will find it to be uncomfortable to stand on. We are putting down an SPC product, Supercore, from WeShipFloors.com, and I put several planks of it in front of my kitchen sink and stove and left it for several days. I did not find it to be uncomfortable at all. I love that it‘s not slippery like some of the WPC products I had samples for. The SPC will be able to handle heavy furniture better than the WPC which is another reason we chose the SPC. WeShipFloors.com sells the Adura products as well as the SuperCore. I suggest you give them a call-Alan or Zoe-and they will be glad to answer any questions you have. They are located in Tennessee. 1-844-356-6711 Good luck with your retirement apartment. Be sure to post photos when you are finished.

Transition strips are required for ALL floating flooring....not just LVP with cork backing. All floating floors need to have the ability to 'move'. A hardwood floating floor needs them. A cork floating floor needs them. A laminate floating floor needs them. A linoleum floating floor needs them and a vinyl floating floor needs them. The question becomes HOW OFTEN do you need them. I have a massive problem with the Floor & Decor website with the installation suggestions. They state that you can install up to 6400sf without transitions. I have to call BS on this one. The reason: cork. Cork is EXTREMELY dynamic. It REALLY LIKES to stretch its legs. In fact a cork floating floor can expand as much as 1" over 25 linear feet. That is HUGE! MASSIVE! Almost unheard of. So...are the transition strips "really necessary"? With cork, yes. With vinyl, no. With cork+vinyl, yes. Floor & Decor has used the "click edge" documents (the fastening system) without taking into consideration the dynamic nature of cork. The 6400sf of continuous install is fine with an SPC core and the edge system. But the technical data becomes useless as soon as you add in vinyl and cork together. I would pop off a baseboard (somewhere) and look to see if your expansion gap has been maintained (I want to see 5/8" or more). If the floor has pushed itself up to the drywall, then you know you have a problem that can be fixed with transition strips. The easiest fix *might be to cut the floor at all door jams and drop in a low-profile t-moulding. As annoying as this is, it could the be the simplest fix. But first the moisture source needs to be addressed. I still think the Bostik has been overwhelmed and I think the cork has grabbed the moisture and pushed everything to the absolute limits (ie. the walls).