Agreed, cheap baby shampoo. The only requirement for the shampoo is that it be clear meaning you can see through it. If it is cloudy, that means it has conditioners in it which cause other issues. And shampoo instead of dish washing soap because dish washing soap is antibacterial. Bacteria and fungi is what we're trying to improve in the soil. Too bad I didn't get back in time, but bermuda is sensitive to the baking soda, too. Even St Aug is sensitive to it but much less than other grasses. Still it is nice to see the crabgrass die such a well deserved black death. I have a totally unproved theory about how the baking soda works. I believe there are protective fungi that live on the blades of crabgrass. Generally they are hydrophobic and shed water as well as most herbicides. But when you prespray with either soapy or sugary water, then the baking soda can actually get right to the fungus and kill it. Without that protection, I believe the crabgrass becomes affected by a bacterial attack which kills it right away. I could be very wrong, but I'm sticking with that for now.

That looks like "roadside aster", a weed that thrives in soil that is low in fertility. You can discourage it with proper fertilization, and you kill it with broadleaf-weed herbicides.

Here is the 1-2-3 of lawn care as gleaned from these forums over the ages. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. Mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 4 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. But those won't help you get it going on the hillside. Which direction does the hillside face? Does it get much shade? Are people successful growing Kentucky bluegrass in your neighborhood? The only problem with using more than 4x the amount on the Milorganite label is that it will smell. Corn gluten meal is absolutely not guaranteed to take care of anything except providing an excellent fertilizer experience. As a weed killer, you cannot rely on it. The best tap-root pulling tool is the Weed Hound. Look it up. Everyone who has one swears by it (me too!). They have them at Home Depot. Kentucky bluegrass will be the best lawn grass for the hillside. It forms a dense sod that will hold the soil in place. Turf type fescues are not as good at that. There are some pasture type fescues that are pretty good, but you probably don't want the weedy appearance. Just for motivation I'll add a photo of a Kentucky bluegrass lawn (flatland). William posted that photo here many years ago. He wanted to show off the improvement made simply by raising his mower height. One problem with KBG is the seed takes 3 weeks to germinate. Many people give up the 3x per day watering regimen long before that and the results are unsatisfying. As you know, fall is the time to renovate. In the mean time you can treat your weeds as if they are the best weeds in the neighborhood. Follow the 1-2-3 above and it will look surprisingly good if not great. Some weeds will disappear from the good care and nothing else. Then when the summer heat breaks (might be July in WI), you can get going with the seeding project.

There isn't really an organic post-emergent herbicide. Corn gluten meal has a pre-emergent control on some weeds. The really organic post-ermergent means of weed control are hand-pulling or treatments with things like vinegar. The biggest adjustment going to organic from synthetic fertilizer is getting used to the lag time. My father-in-law hoses his yard with miracle-gro and the grass is growing like the dickens within a couple days. When you apply grains as fertilizer, you need to expect to wait about 3 weeks to start seeing a difference. I started with the organic fertilizing last year, but still am working against many years of neglect from the previous homeowner. I think it just takes patience. This is my first spring and now all the dormant wild onion bulbs that I hadn't seen last fall woke up and have tufts all over the yard. I'll probably need to do some targeted nuking with herbicide. I'll stay with the organic fertilizing and hopefully next year there will be few enough onions that I can hand pull them. By then my grass will be stronger too. A strong dense stand of grass is the best defense against weeds! Good luck!