Hi Beth! The bathroom is on the wall that separates my unit from my neighbor and the drywall is really close to the concrete separating wall (little space for a junction box) and I think that's why my friend said to just go from the ceiling. I didn't think there was enough width to hang two lights over my 48" vanity but I was just on vacation and the hotel in Vienna had hanging pendants over both of the 50 inch vanities; yes, I measured them with an 11" piece of paper. LOL So, I'm going to get small pendants around 5" width and have them installed from the ceiling! Thanks, I always appreciate your input!

Make sure you and your contractor understand the difference between a roll-in shower and a transfer shower. Transfer shower means the user has enough upper body strength or ability to stand long enough to move from a wheelchair to a bench. A roll-in shower means there must be enough space to roll in with a wheelchair. My BIL is a paraplegic who must always be in a wheelchair, and we frequently have problems with hotels not understanding what he needs. He used to transfer and use a bench in the shower, but as he ages and his shoulders take more of a beating, he does not want to transfer to take a shower. He is afraid of slipping or losing strength at the wrong time, and then ending up on the shower floor. He brings a separate shower chair with him (actually one of his old chairs with most of the accessory pieces stripped off), transfers to that chair to roll into the shower, and then goes back to his regular wheelchair later on. Kerdi and other manufacturers recommend that if you use a curbless or zero entry shower design, you should plan for the entire bathroom area around it as a wet room. That is relatively easy to do when you prep the floor for tile, since they just use waterproof membrane and sealed seams under the tile. Its not a lot different than the decoupling membrane they use for a standard tile installation. Bruce

I'll be a contrarian. I would never knowingly rent a room with a shared bathroom in the hall. That would be a complete pass - I don't even like having to use a hallway bathroom in a sleeping situation in which I would share with friends and family because if I need to use it in the night I would have to wake up more/get more decently dressed and I hate having to shlep stuff to take a shower or perform normal grooming stuff in a bathroom. I don't have the horror of viewing a toilet from a bedroom that some houzzers seem to have. It certainly wouldn't bother me on a temporary basis. I have a master bath in my home and I can't remember the last time I actually shut the door. I don't have issues with smells or humidity but perhaps that is because my Toto washlet has a built in deodorizer AND I have an excellent Panasonic fan which runs based on ambient humidity levels. I don't generally even have condensation on shower doors or mirrors after exiting let along huge amounts of humidity wafting through my bedroom. The question really is one of economics. There is a cost to installing the bathroom and OP would need to decide whether they would make up the expense by having increased rent and/or renting it out more frequently. Certainly any prospective renter would see a picture and determine whether they wanted the ensuite with a curtain in the room or use of a bathroom in the hall. Also resale value is a red herring. At such point that OP wanted to sell it would be relatively inexpensive to convert the bathroom into a closet if having the ensuite in that room was a negative.

but have no objections to finger-jointed as the glue is waterproof and it's usually cheaper and sometimes straighter than solid wood. My objection to finger jointed trim is that the finger joint can telegraph thru the paint. Dis-similar pieces of wood that react differently to changes in humidity. Which is more likely to happen in a bathroom. Not anything to do with the integrity of the glue.