I need advice for a kitchen sink (and I only have 6 days to get it!)
fatcatz
17 days ago
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I need to get plant lamps, and have no clue what I need
Comments (12)I thought I read a back post by H. that if you have proper cfl's (45 watt and up) that they should be on a 12 hour run? Flourescents need the longer run??? Moby this is a complete list of what you will need: - CFL's- 42 watt actual or higher- see Howard's specs (link for a good online source below) - Clamp lamps with the big silver 10-12" dish (see pic below). I prefer the ceramic sockets. Mine are made by "Commercial Electric" and have an 8' cord - Timer - Power strip or surge protector- make sure the cord is long enough. Don't use a regular extension cord. get the kind that has a built in breaker - Something to attach the clamp lamps to- depending on where you want to put them. I like the ceiling or the wall so I get plumber brackets from HD. They are about 35¢ each (see pic below) - screws and plastic sleeves to screw in the plumber's brackets - Tape or twist ties - for the cords - I partially and loosely cover my power cord with a plastic bag if it's close to my grow area. Water and electric don't mix. I cut the bag in 1/2 and tape the plastic to the part that might get water on it. You don't want to put the power strip or cords inside a plastic bag. Looks more complicated than it is. It's very easy to set up. Clara Here is a link that might be useful: cfl source...See MoreWhy do I only have ONE kitchen sink option?!
Comments (13)Live_Wire_Oak...is that interior or exterior/overall width? I'm asking, b/c when we were looking for a sink, our KD told us the overall width (i.e., exterior width) of the sink we chose should be no more than 1/2" narrower than our sink base. So, a 36" sink base meant a sink no wider than 35-1/2". We ended up with sink that had an exterior/overall width of 35-1/8" wide that fit in our sink base with no alterations needed. Our cabinet walls are 1/2". Based on my experience, it appears if you wish to install a sink w/no alterations to your sink base, then your sink should have an exterior width of no more than: Width of Sink Base - 2 x Width of Cabinet Walls (or, no wider than the interior opening of the cabinet...but if you don't have your cabinets yet, you cannot measure that!) Additionally, you need to know three other things: How thick is your subway tile + hardibacker or similar board behind it if that board is mounted on top of drywall and is not the wall itself. Faucet dimensions...you need to know what faucet you're getting if you want to be certain it will fit. Some faucets need several inches behind them to work properly...handles that go back, wide stems, etc. So, check your chosen faucet's specs to see how much space you need behind the faucet. Also, if you have an undermount sink, the faucet holes cannot be drilled right at the back of the sink. You will need a little more than 1" b/w the sink & the faucet hole. The width of the stem of the faucet will vary depending on the faucet. Window (I know, you have no window, but others might): If there's a window behind your sink If window is not counter-height (~36"), the sill height & depth If window is counter-height, and has no sill, the depth of the window well If window is counter-height, and has a sill, the depth of the window well and the depth & height of the sill (may be negligible height-wise, but do need to be sure it won't impact the amount of space available for the faucet hole.) CalypsoChick...if you look at this picture, the measurements, you can see the overall width of 35-1/8". It was narrow enough to fit in a 36" wide sink base with 1/2" walls with no alteration. Notes about your other sink choices: First, though, you say you have a 24" sink base, but you really appear to have a 30" sink base...you need to confirm that with your KD or GC (or whoever did the final design and ordered or will order the cabinets) b/f you can decide on a sink. Meanwhile... Franke PPX110199/16, PPX1101912/16 Exterior Dimensions: 20-7/16" x 19-1/2" Interior Dimensions: 18-15/16" x 18-1/8" Will definitely fit in both a 24" & 27" sink base (exterior width = approx 21") Interior width, though is far less than 21"...it's 17", so 4" less than what......See MoreThe home depot guy told me I need 3 seams. I only have 48 sq
Comments (66)If I were in your position, I would find a reputable supplier of your product. They would either fabricate or have a fabricator. My reasoning for this is that I had Home Depot bid my kitchen remodel 5 years ago. I had them bid everything, but only ended up letting them do the demo and installation of cabinets. When they measured for cabinets, they assumed I would be replacing fairly new floor covering hence ordering a 24" corner sink cabinet. Fortunately, I caught that and told them I wanted the originally sized 36" base. It created a delay of a couple of weeks. To shorten my long story, I saved about $2,000 finding my own countertop and backsplash supplier who used a reputable fabricator. Plus, I served as my own GC to schedule electrician, plumber, appliance installation much to the chagrin of HD. They claimed I would mess up their installation timeframe. Well, I got it taken care of and saved approximately another $4,000 over HD's bid. To me, $6,000 is a lot of money! Last, but not least, I was not impressed with the cabinet installation. HD prices are misleading. Once you have spent hours consulting whether for kitchen or carpet or whatever, the price adding installation is considerably higher than necessary....See MoreI have 6' of space-how much space for sink cabinet, nail counter?
Comments (23)Wow! For the record, I wasn’t posting a ‘rate my floor plan’. I am not so hard headed that I can’t receive advice, consider alternatives, or answer questions. From reading the responses, it seems our bathroom is so terrible that no one can even give input on how to address the questions I listed in my first post. I find it hard to believe it is so bad as that! Meanwhile only one person has said they have a counter such as I am asking about. I also never said I was unwilling to change things around, just that I didn’t think a simple swap of vanities would work. I even included a bigger view of the adjoining areas to show it would not be as simple as that. What even would you have me tell my architect? That some random people on the internet think her design could be better? I could spend my time trying to justify why we didn’t put the long vanity on the opposite side of the room, or under a window, or why I will be including a toilet room. And then you would either understand why we have come to this design, or you would tear my entire home apart. If you have ever built a home, especially a design from scratch custom home, you know that it is like putting puzzle pieces together. We all have our lists of must haves, wish items, and constraints of design and budget, and time. At some point you just have to decide to be finished. I actually never said I was in the design phase. Walls are not up yet, but none of you ever asked where we were in the build process. I’m an introvert and sensitive person who has had a pretty traumatic last year and a half. It’s taken me a while to feel like I can venture out of my shell and reach out to others-even in a basically anonymous way online. If I had read such negative and generally unhelpful comments a year ago, I would have probably spiraled into a deep depression and doubted myself, what I wanted in my home, as well as the talented professionals I have partnered with to design our home. It’s unfortunate that people can take the time to comment online without taking the time to read the post, think about whether they are giving any constructive advice, or if their tone is derogatory. Not to mention, ignoring the topic at hand. I have been a member since it was just gardenweb some 10+ years ago. From discussions about kitchens, baths, home building, and pools, I used to always find these forums helpful, informative, and a generally positive experience. I will try to remain optimistic that I will still experience that. Juls...See Morefatcatz
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