Well, this Wolf Pro Island hood, in concert with its supporting equipment, meets performance and noise requirements,* and at 34.5 inches above the counter, I can see outside when under it. The longer than typical length is due to two induction units underneath -- a 36-inch Frigidaire unit and a Cooktek induction wok hob.

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*Achieves at least 90 ft/min air flow under the entry aperture, even with passive MUA.

You can go to a hood base 7 feet above the floor by adopting commercial hood practices, which will require enough ceiling height or space into an attic above; horizontal dimensions of the unit will also increase. For example, see @opaone's treatise here: https://bamasotan.us/range-exhaust-hood-faq/

I was thinking of going with ModernAire, and having it 36 inches above the stove.

Reply to BeverlyFLADeziner

No, there is no way to move the stove to a perimeter wall. Well, there is, but we're not going to redo the cabinetry and plumbing. We're on a limited budget and I've decided to keep the original layout of the 1959 kitchen, including the cabinets.

kaseki Thanks. I've read https://bamasotan.us/range-exhaust-hood-faq/

There's an attic above. The height from floor to ceiling is 7.5'. There's currently a chimney hood there.

To Raimondi

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I can do one of those you mention, and was leaning toward Wolf and Ventahood, and before that Faber or Falmec. However, I read negative reviews here on Ventahood; I got the sense that the lower-end model wouldn't match the upper end. I also read, I thought here, that most brands for homes aren't that great, or about the same. One rep told me that that was true of all but Ventahood.

I'm not wild about having a remote, so was hoping, if I have go with one of these brands for homes to get one without a remote.

I may end up going with one of these if I don't hear back pronto from ModernAire, though.

My house is not airtight. It's drafty, built in 1959, feels like my summer camp in Maine, so, given I know little about MUA, that maybe it wasn't a concern, but I'll ask.

7 hours ago

Wolf, Faber, Kobe, Ventahood, etc. At least 6" wider than your cooking zone. If you are going higher than 30" from the cooking zone, you may want even wider, with more CFM. You will also need a make up air system for this.

Hi Kaseki,

Thanks. I'm not hearing back from ModernAire in a timely manner, so I may need to go with something off the shelf. I'm leaning toward Wolf, maybe this

https://www.subzero-wolf.com/trade-resources/product-specifications/product-specifications-detail/42-inch-cooktop-island-hood-stainless

And yes, I guess it would be passive air, if by that you mean doing nothing other than installing the hood.

Heh heh. While doing nothing for MUA might well be described as passive, the term as used here refers to having an MUA path that includes filtering and heating, as needed, but no blower that needs to be controlled by any of various means. If you don't provide this, a powerful hood can't be powerful because the pressure loss will degrade its flow rate. Further, the lower interior house pressure may back-draft combustion appliances, which is unsafe. Even without any, pulling exterior air through wall cavities is not good for them, or for you.

There is a Wolf design guide somewhere on Wolf's website that you can use to see the entire scope of available hoods.

7.5’ ceilings is low …have you looked into a down draft?…

Yes, it is low. I'm just realizing that the top of the counter is 36.5", and this leaves us 55," which means if we wanted the hood to be 36" above the stove, it leaves just 19 inches for the chimney.

No, I've not looked into downdraft, but that looks like it'd be quite costly. I'll look into it, though. Thanks.

I don't see how the ModernAire, or a Wolf is going to work here.

When considering cost of down draft…compare regular stove and hood cost..not just stove…that being said..a downdraft goes under the house..we have an unusual situation where the whole house is open floor plan…so we also added exhaust fans in the ceiling to draw all cooking smells up and out in addition to the down draft…

Without commenting on elegance, or lack thereof, in my photo earlier in this thread the Wolf chimney is connected to an ~ 8-ft ceiling. The chimney is 6 inches high, so without it and with the hood mounted directly to the ceiling the hood base height should be at 35.5 inches above a 36.5 counter. The Wolf Pro Island hoods are 18 inches high.

Downdraft systems are ineffective against energetic cooking plumes. Pop-up types may have some utility for capture and containment of simmering and poaching cooking plumes if the cooking is performed adjacent to the pop-up.

Our ceiling exhaust fans were very inexpensive to buy..install …and they use very little electricity…we also use them to remove heat on hot summer days…since we don’t really like to use the air conditioning….the savings in cost for electricity is huge…

What kind do you you have, btydrvn?

Hi Kaseki,

Thanks. I guess I misunderstood what passive meant, or there was no definition.

Who would explain this to me?

I'm inclined to go with ModernAire. When I asked him about this, he asked me to discuss with my contractor.

Thanks,

Susan

Heh heh. While doing nothing for MUA might well be described as passive, the term as used here refers to having an MUA path that includes filtering and heating, as needed, but no blower that needs to be controlled by any of various means. If you don't provide this, a powerful hood can't be powerful because the pressure loss will degrade its flow rate. Further, the lower interior house pressure may back-draft combustion appliances, which is unsafe. Even without any, pulling exterior air through wall cavities is not good for them, or for you.

There is a Wolf design guide somewhere on Wolf's website that you can use to see the entire scope of available hoods.

Thanks, Kaseki,

I was going to go with the Modernaire, but it's going to be hard for me with the contractor.

No on downdraft. We never discussed that, and I don't really see why it'd be necessary, plus what you say, thanks.

When you say, "The Wolf Pro Island hoods are 18 inches high," do you mean I cold get a Wolf chimney that comes down 18" from the ceiling, and will be ~ 37" above the stove (55" from ceiling to top of current stove, which is radiant)?

I guess I don't follow what you mean by 6" high and that the Wolf Pro Island hoods, though.

In response to this message:

Without commenting on elegance, or lack thereof, in my photo earlier in this thread the Wolf chimney is connected to an ~ 8-ft ceiling. The chimney is 6 inches high, so without it and with the hood mounted directly to the ceiling the hood base height should be at 35.5 inches above a 36.5 counter. The Wolf Pro Island hoods are 18 inches high.

Downdraft systems are ineffective against energetic cooking plumes. Pop-up types may have some utility for capture and containment of simmering and poaching cooking plumes if the cooking is performed adjacent to the pop-up.

OK, let me be more particular. The hood is the part that overlaps the cooking zone and provides filtering/fire-stopping and sometimes also an internal blower. The chimney is the part between the hood and the ceiling covering/hiding the duct. (A chimney hood typically comprises both parts.) My Wolf Pro Island hood is 18 inches high and connected to a 6-inch high chimney which, in turn, is connected to the ceiling. The chimney is optional.

In my case the Wolf-supplied chimney was bolted to the joist and beam structure in the attic through the ceiling sheetrock. The hood was then bolted to the bottom of the chimney. A damper was installed at the hood. The duct was connected to the damper from above (attic).

My duct is connected to a roof blower which has its own damper (two dampers are desirable.) In between the roof blower and the hood damper is a Fantech silencer (giant muffler).

So yes, if you forego having a chimney, your Pro Island hood would be approximately the same distance from the floor as mine, which is connected via the chimney to a higher ceiling.

I had a Kobe hood over my island range, and I loved it - I really, really miss having an island range now. If I was going to redesign my kitchen now, I'd do it again in a heartbeat: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/4751866/my-reveal There are a couple of photos in this "reveal" thread.

Our exhaust fans were installed 24 years ago…they sit on top of the roof with just a grate to suck the warm air through to the outside …the heat naturally gravitates to the highest point where the fans are installed…not sure what you would call them except by describing their function🤦🏻‍♀️🤷🏼‍♀️…we have never even had to service or do any maintenance to them in all that time

Thanks, Kaseki, especially for this.

My duct is connected to a roof blower which has its own damper (two dampers are desirable.) In between the roof blower and the hood damper is a Fantech silencer (giant muffler).

I know we're getting a blower, but not sure about a damper.

You need an outer damper to keep cold air out of the duct, and an inner damper to keep colder attic air out of the hood. This also keeps house moisture from condensing in the duct and potentially dripping onto the cooktop. Single damper systems may rattle in the wind unless the damper is a type that remains shut without motor action or overpowering a magnet.

Thank you so much for this!

I really appreciate it!

Toronto Vet - did your Kobe flat style hood pull well, by which I mean exhaust odors well? I had been reading in a technical piece linked thru another discussion a strong recommendation for a deep capture area rather than a flat surface where the grates are.

I never measured it, but it drew well enough that I never noticed a problem (or smell), and I cook a lot. Maybe not the most efficient, but it worked for me.

Reservoir volume under the baffles helps with transient plume capture and required steady-state CFM. In cases where the hood CFM is adequate for entraining the plume volumetric rate and thus capturing it in its entirety, the lack of reservoir volume will not be noticed. Typically transients occur when searing or wok cooking. The reservoir volume also improves plume averaging over the baffle area, so where I use the term "adequate" it can still mean different CFM versus reservoir volume even when the plume volumetric rate is a constant.

Thanks. Not sure that I grok it all in one reading but I will apppreciate this info after more thoughtful consideration.