As Gary pointed out there are some advantages to growing orchids in pots. However, one significant advantage to growing orchids on a tree is no repotting. Most orchid growers automatically groan when they hear that word. Actually, probably everybody with repotting to do just groaned right now when they read this. That's the thing about orchids in pots...you have to repot them on a regular basis...especially in warmer climates like Florida.. If you don't, then the bark turns to soil and your orchids rot. When you grow an orchid on a tree you don't have to ever worry about repotting. With all that room to grow you can end up with a really nice specimen plant. For example...here's a photo of a nice specimen Oncidium blooming on a tree and here's another photo of an even larger specimen Oncidium blooming on a tree. Too see more photos of orchids growing on trees check out the Landscaping with Orchids group.

My 2 favorite vendors got very little mention. 1) Carmela Orchids in Hawaii because they sell Plug trays. You get 25 healthy 3" plus catts with 3 growths with or without a new lead for $25.00 if you phone Sheldon and ask for a Society discount ($28 is the normal price). Shipping for 10 such plug trays is $20.00 relatively more expensive for a smaller order. I am growing a ton of these planning to sell them for $10 to $15 when in bloom 'Saturday morning garage sale' style, put them on our raffle table, silent auction table at our Society or list them on the exchange site of this forum when in bloom (2 to 3 years). 2) SBOE (Santa Barbara Orchid Estates) I favor them over all SOCAL vendors because they grow all of their stuff outside in conditions similar to my SOCAL backyard. Their plants require no adjustment to switch to my growing conditions. Cal Orchids across the street from them has beautiful stuff but grows everything in controlled green house conditions. Some of my purchases from him lingered for a year before they elected to live in my backyard. Nick

Stan, wedging will sometimes work...but it's rare to be able to wedge something tight enough where it doesn't shift because of a strong wind or a direct hit from the hose. So if you don't see any new roots attaching to the tree within the next couple of weeks...here are the possible causes... 1. insufficient light/heat - the closer you are to the coast, the more direct sun you'll need to give CAM orchids and/or intermediate/warm growers. 2. pests - slugs/snails can really climb! Sowbugs will also eat orchid roots and new growth. Not sure if mice/rats/squirrels will eat new roots but they will sure eat the pseudobulbs. 3. loosely attached - if an orchid has wiggle room, the delicate root tips can be broken off. Unlike Tillandsias, orchids are all about the roots. Moss is essential for some orchids...generally speaking orchids that lack decent storage facilities...such as most Pleurothallids. But moss has the significant drawback of providing a perfect haven for slugs, sowbugs and millipedes. Plus, it's risky to use with orchids that like to dry out between waterings...such as CAM orchids. It's not so much an issue during summer...but it can greatly increase the chances of rot during our occasionally wet winters. Regarding broken off pieces...it depends how large they are. If they are small enough that I'd lose track of them on a tree...then I'll tightly attach them to a piece of wood that I can hang somewhere.

Jen, full sun is a very doable thing with many orchids. Here's a list for you to consider, to attach them on tree, use a piece (4x4 inches or therabouts) of cocofiber tween the orchid and the tree, use plastic tie wraps (H.Depot electrical dept)to secure orchid to tree, you may need to use more than 1 tiedown depending on the thickness of the trunk you're attaching to. It is important that plant be secure and immobile when tied down to the trunk, new growth has to point upwards for all plants except phalenopsis, they grow hanging down. Google these plants and see what you like and I believe you have some orchid nurseries in sarasota. If you have a hard time tracking any of the plants on the list, let me know. Plants that can be grown in full sun: Encyclia tampensis - florida native, blooms in June Schomgburkia- any variety Laelia anceps - summer-fall bloomer brassavola - any variety (nodosa, cucullata, perrinii, dygbiana, mostly summer bloomers, nodosa is expecially fragrant, after dark). Epidendrum ciliare cattleytonia (CTNA)hybrids - small red/yellow flowers. If you have some partly shaded spots, then, you can use any cattleya hybrid or dendrobium hybrid or oncidium (dancing lady). and lastly if you a VERY shaded spot, you can put some phalenopsis in, for these use extra(two layers with roots sandwiched tween them) cocofiber as they will need more moisture than the other plants and preferably within reach of the sprinklers